371 starter
#1
371 starter
Yea Gidday from Nz
Just pulled me starter out ...has seen better days .. 58 Olds 371 auto What starter have you guys used to replace them and where from please delco 1107666
Is 9 tooth and the clutch is shot
Brownie
Just pulled me starter out ...has seen better days .. 58 Olds 371 auto What starter have you guys used to replace them and where from please delco 1107666
Is 9 tooth and the clutch is shot
Brownie
#3
Brownie
#4
I think your starter has been rebuilt before. Do not buy parts for the 1107666 as I think that is not the correct number. I think you should have an 1107665. You may wish to do your own research on this matter but I believe this to be correct. Maybe someone on the site can verify. I can probably supply the parts if you can't find them near you. Your 10MT starter is a bit shorter than most of the common 10MT units, but some of the parts are the same. Unfortunately the drive (clutch) is different as well as the armature. The armature is about 11MM shorter. and the drive is also shorter. If your drive pinion is good (both outside teeth and inside the clutch) it may be able to be rebuilt by you or a shop near you using the more common Delco clutch parts. I'm pretty sure I have a drive you need in stock. Try looking for a drive looking for Delco number 1974355
#5
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...+drive+rebuild
Look this thread over
Look this thread over
#7
Senior moment
I think your starter has been rebuilt before. Do not buy parts for the 1107666 as I think that is not the correct number. I think you should have an 1107665. You may wish to do your own research on this matter but I believe this to be correct. Maybe someone on the site can verify. I can probably supply the parts if you can't find them near you. Your 10MT starter is a bit shorter than most of the common 10MT units, but some of the parts are the same. Unfortunately the drive (clutch) is different as well as the armature. The armature is about 11MM shorter. and the drive is also shorter. If your drive pinion is good (both outside teeth and inside the clutch) it may be able to be rebuilt by you or a shop near you using the more common Delco clutch parts. I'm pretty sure I have a drive you need in stock. Try looking for a drive looking for Delco number 1974355
Yea Gidday
my bad ....had a young person look at number and it is 665 ...sorry
It is the clutch drive that is shot ...9 tooth pinion is good but if you have the starter running on the bench and apply pressure with a piece of wood on the pinion ...the pinion stops turning and starter keeps going . Have tried the 2 major starter shops in NZ with no luck at all ..the starter number comes up but unfortunately is obsolete .
Do you have a drive in stock for the 665 starter ..if yes is it new or used please
Have found an aftermarket starter on the Web @ rareelectricial ... has anybody had dealings with them 🤔🤔
thanks Brownie
#8
Great info
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...+drive+rebuild
Look this thread over
Look this thread over
Brownie
#10
nio
It is the clutch drive that is shot ...9 tooth pinion is good but if you have the starter running on the bench and apply pressure with a piece of wood on the pinion ...the pinion stops turning and starter keeps going . Have tried the 2 major starter shops in NZ with no luck at all ..the starter number comes up but unfortunately is obsolete .
Do you have a drive in stock for the 665 starter ..if yes is it new or used please
Have found an aftermarket starter on the Web @ rareelectricial ... has anybody had dealings with them
It is the clutch drive that is shot ...9 tooth pinion is good but if you have the starter running on the bench and apply pressure with a piece of wood on the pinion ...the pinion stops turning and starter keeps going . Have tried the 2 major starter shops in NZ with no luck at all ..the starter number comes up but unfortunately is obsolete .
Do you have a drive in stock for the 665 starter ..if yes is it new or used please
Have found an aftermarket starter on the Web @ rareelectricial ... has anybody had dealings with them
Original starter drives can be had here ;
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...963+Oldsmobile
A starter drive , bushings and brushes may be all you need .
A local shop should be able to check the armature on a " growler " and true and undercut the commutator .
#11
Great option
That's a lot of money to spend , especially when your starter may only need a drive .
Original starter drives can be had here ;
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...963+Oldsmobile
A starter drive , bushings and brushes may be all you need .
A local shop should be able to check the armature on a " growler " and true and undercut the commutator .
Original starter drives can be had here ;
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...963+Oldsmobile
A starter drive , bushings and brushes may be all you need .
A local shop should be able to check the armature on a " growler " and true and undercut the commutator .
I am gunna pull the starter apart and measure the drive and check everything before I order as the freight down here is usually more than the part $45.00 to $120.00 . Great info ..thanks
Brownie
#15
In bits now
Holiday in NZ for the Queens birthday ....ya should hit Trumpy up for one 😊😊😊 ...Ok serious stuff 🤓 have stripped the starter ... took pics as I did to show you .. looks like I need a drive , set of brushes , and the leather washer on back end of shaft . Front and back bushes have no float on the 12mm shaft .I also pulled the solinoid apart ...turned the copper washer over to the good side and turned the positive bolt round to the good side.
Let me know how you want to be paid and I will organize the monies .
delivery address is ::
Cavanagh Truck Spares
Attn ::: Brownie
The drive was very loose on the 12mm shaft
Bit of wear on teeth and it looked like it had been fixed before
Shaft looked OK 😊
Think this is a leather washer and it has seen better days ...looks like a bit of wear on the back plate face as well
Will put new brushes in and get armature tested and tidied up at the auto sparkies
10 Landscape rd
Te puke 3119
Bay of Plenty
New Zealand
#17
#19
Looks great
Is this what you want? If there is anything else let me know. I will get a shipping price from post office tomorrow morning.
Yea Gidday
They look great ...exactly what we are looking for ... thanks ...hear from you soon
Brownie
5Roller HD drive, brushes and leather brake washer
Yea Gidday
They look great ...exactly what we are looking for ... thanks ...hear from you soon
Brownie
5Roller HD drive, brushes and leather brake washer
#21
Happyness Filled
Yup ...all sounds great thanks Mark ... can send you our credit card details but it will need to be a private message ....can we do that on here🤔🤔🤔🤔 or do you have a website
Brownie
#22
Can you do paypal? No website or charge card processor. I closed the business a few years ago. Now it is just a hobby. Your brushes still look to have some life on them. I have seen the brushes wear half the screw head off and still work. I doubt if the end cap has worn down. Probably just some greasy debris build up there. I'm going to throw in a few extra small parts. Bushings and 2 thin fiber brake washers. You can use the thin ones to make up some extra end play on the armature if needed. My books show 2 different end caps using different bushings. Early and late style, so I will send both along with the drive end bushing. I think you will be using the thinner bushings if you decide to change them.
To space the armature, with no grease in the bushings yet,assemble the armature in the drive end housing, then put the field case over the armature, then put the end cap on and push down until cap is tight. Now push up on the drive to lift the armature. When the end cap starts to lift you can see the play at the drive end thrust washer against the cast iron housing.You need some play there, but not a lot. If you have a big gap use the thin fiber washer. Take it back apart and put a bit of grease in both bushings, then reassemble with the bolts.
When you put the brushes in put the longer side against the brush holder. Scroll back up to your picture to see what I mean.
To space the armature, with no grease in the bushings yet,assemble the armature in the drive end housing, then put the field case over the armature, then put the end cap on and push down until cap is tight. Now push up on the drive to lift the armature. When the end cap starts to lift you can see the play at the drive end thrust washer against the cast iron housing.You need some play there, but not a lot. If you have a big gap use the thin fiber washer. Take it back apart and put a bit of grease in both bushings, then reassemble with the bolts.
When you put the brushes in put the longer side against the brush holder. Scroll back up to your picture to see what I mean.
#23
All Good
Can you do paypal? No website or charge card processor. I closed the business a few years ago. Now it is just a hobby. Your brushes still look to have some life on them. I have seen the brushes wear half the screw head off and still work. I doubt if the end cap has worn down. Probably just some greasy debris build up there. I'm going to throw in a few extra small parts. Bushings and 2 thin fiber brake washers. You can use the thin ones to make up some extra end play on the armature if needed. My books show 2 different end caps using different bushings. Early and late style, so I will send both along with the drive end bushing. I think you will be using the thinner bushings if you decide to change them.
To space the armature, with no grease in the bushings yet,assemble the armature in the drive end housing, then put the field case over the armature, then put the end cap on and push down until cap is tight. Now push up on the drive to lift the armature. When the end cap starts to lift you can see the play at the drive end thrust washer against the cast iron housing.You need some play there, but not a lot. If you have a big gap use the thin fiber washer. Take it back apart and put a bit of grease in both bushings, then reassemble with the bolts.
When you put the brushes in put the longer side against the brush holder. Scroll back up to your picture to see what I mean.
To space the armature, with no grease in the bushings yet,assemble the armature in the drive end housing, then put the field case over the armature, then put the end cap on and push down until cap is tight. Now push up on the drive to lift the armature. When the end cap starts to lift you can see the play at the drive end thrust washer against the cast iron housing.You need some play there, but not a lot. If you have a big gap use the thin fiber washer. Take it back apart and put a bit of grease in both bushings, then reassemble with the bolts.
When you put the brushes in put the longer side against the brush holder. Scroll back up to your picture to see what I mean.
Your a legend ...thanks for that ...much appreciated . It did have a bit much end play , so its gunna be far easier to sort it with the correct spacers 😊Yup I have got a pay pal account ...do I need your account number or something to pay it into please ...its midday on Thursday here so can get onto it this avro
Brownie
#24
My pay pal account is stellar11@earthlink.net.
#25
Thanks ..
My pay pal account is stellar11@earthlink.net.
funds transferred taday... thanks for being so helpful ...its been
a pleasure to trade withyou
keep enjoying the good things 😊
Brownie
#26
Big thanks
My pay pal account is stellar11@earthlink.net.
its a long way round the world at the moment starter parts arrived taday ...did well to get them here ...all perfect ...thanks soooo much for all the effort Mark ...really appreciated
Brownie
Last edited by Brownie12; June 23rd, 2020 at 09:50 PM. Reason: Spell earay
#28
Rebuild
Yea Gidday
I thought I had answered you 😁
must have gone to the zone where all the other single sox are 😊😊😊
yup ...the rebuild went great ..is all as per instructions that were really good . Is all together and bench tested ...All Good .
Thanks for all the help ..made the job easy
Brownie
I thought I had answered you 😁
must have gone to the zone where all the other single sox are 😊😊😊
yup ...the rebuild went great ..is all as per instructions that were really good . Is all together and bench tested ...All Good .
Thanks for all the help ..made the job easy
Brownie
#30
More help please
Hi Mark
58 olds is now road worthy 😊😊
BUT the starter is playing up 🤔🤔 not sure what I have done wrong
when it is cold it works 9 out of 10 times , but when it is hot about 2 out of 10 times, so I took it out and did the following.
when starter not work you can hear the solenoid firmly operating
but starter not spin.
pulled solenoid apart and every thing looked great ...filed the disc and contact bolts to make them shiney .
bench tested it 50 times ....never missed a beat
cleaned paint off nose cone contact with block surface and cleaned block .....added an earth strap from battery to block as it did not have one.
fitted starter to car ....started perfect every time ...yeepeeee
took it for a drive down road to get it hot .....back to 2 out of 10 🤨🤨😪😪
starter is right by exhaust , had armature tested on growler , is not polling out
Any ideas
Brownie
58 olds is now road worthy 😊😊
BUT the starter is playing up 🤔🤔 not sure what I have done wrong
when it is cold it works 9 out of 10 times , but when it is hot about 2 out of 10 times, so I took it out and did the following.
when starter not work you can hear the solenoid firmly operating
but starter not spin.
pulled solenoid apart and every thing looked great ...filed the disc and contact bolts to make them shiney .
bench tested it 50 times ....never missed a beat
cleaned paint off nose cone contact with block surface and cleaned block .....added an earth strap from battery to block as it did not have one.
fitted starter to car ....started perfect every time ...yeepeeee
took it for a drive down road to get it hot .....back to 2 out of 10 🤨🤨😪😪
starter is right by exhaust , had armature tested on growler , is not polling out
Any ideas
Brownie
#31
If the solenoid is kicking out solid and the ground side is good , that only leaves the positive side. You may want to replace both ground and positive battery cables. What does not polling out mean? Can you do a voltage drop test on the cables?
#32
Fixed
finally got time to sort starter 😊 took it out and same story as before🤨🤨 stripped it ( polling out is when armature is touching fields ...we speak same language ...english .... just different words down under Lol 😁😁 accidentally dropped the solinoid ...tested it...no go with power coming out output... dropped again ...was all good ....purchased new one and fitted ....happy days😊😊
thanks for your help again
Brownie
#34
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