I have a '73 cutlass S 442.
Very hard to find info on. Most tables and charts go up to '72, skip over '73 and go into '74-80's.

I've been reading the threads about installing the Rally Pack gauges. Very informative. Kudo's for the pictures and more pictures. Very helpful.
Lady72nRob71 Excellent job explaining steps and sharing pictures.

Decided to try info from the '72 for my installation. Based on info from Lady72nRob71

I got a set of OEM gauges - don't know if they work - need cleaned and painted.

Rewired the connector and I do have lights to the unit.
I'll put in the 194 bulbs as they are not very bright with only 2 bulbs.
Hoping the white paint on the inside of the can will help a lot.
Having not started the car yet, I still don't know if they work, need to install the correct sending units. This is to be this weekend.

Lady72nRob71 mentioned a wire (light green I think) that needs to be terminated from the ignition. May need some advice here.

If they work, I'll remove, clean, paint and take some pics.

I'll post some pics, hopefully this weekend.
Need to see the Buckeyes play in the "Shoe"
GO BUCKS!!!

 

The green wire is for the idiot lights. If you don't truncate it, the gages will peg when you start the car. After that they will go back to normal. That wire is used as the power feed to light the idiot lights are operational. Don't know if it's the same for 73 as 72 but very likely.

 

Will it hurt the gauges if I don't cut the green wire?
Or is this just one of those annoying observations.

Does the "Gen" idiot light use this? It's in the same cluster of gauges.

 

Great write up here:
http://www.73-77olds.com/forums/show...e+gauge+wiring

Joe

 

1973 Cutlass S - 442, w/ 350, 4 barrel, dual exhaust (pretty much stock)

I installed the gauge cluster. This was an original cluster that I got used. The unit is pretty dirty and I'll use my old bezel, it's in so much better condition and the "chrome" is still on it. Not sure if the gauges actually worked.

I had to buy the oil and water sending units along with a short nipple and a 45 deg brass fitting. Those actually went in with little problems. Last week I started spraying a little liquid wrench on the brass nipple. Hoping this would help loosening and not snap off. No problem came out very easy. I had more of an issue breaking loose the temperature sending unit.

Followed the instructions from Lady72nRob71, his was for a '72.
The connector and wiring was the same - rewired connector.
The only thing I done different was -
Lady72nRob71 said to remove the black wire - tape the connector and leave it hang, this wire was no longer used -
I inserted it back in the connector where there was "no pin", off the backside of the gauge can, kind of using the connector for storage.
That way, I won't come across a taped unknown wire under the dash in the future.

After completing that - inserted in the dash - NO LIGHTS - in gauge cluster? The speedometer had lights -
Long story short - 161 bulbs are 1 candle 194 is 2 candles and 168 are 3 candles - I had a mix of bulbs, some you could read some not.
I put 168 bulbs in - pretty good look.
I will now remove cluster clean and paint the inside of the can to help with a little more brightness.

My temperature climbed to about the first mark - on the gauge approx 1/4, not sure what the temp is (total gauge temp is 250) - think it should read half or a little more than half on the gauge. The oil went right to 2 needle widths above 1/2 on the gauge - a little over 40 psi. Gas gauge looks where it was, with my original fuel gauge.

I have not clipped the green wire - temp gauge I noticed pegged while starting, then went cold and gradually started to climb.

How can I check to see if these readings are accurate? Can these gauges (oil and temp) be adjusted now? If so, I'm open for my next set of instructions. Thanks for all the help -

 

I do not have a technical answer but I can tell you that before I knew about the green wire, I had converted a 1969 Cutlass to Rally Pac, years ago and ran it for 23 years without a problem with the gauges. The after market gauges however, do come with a warning that the warrenty is voided if you do not disconnect the green wire.

 

tomsw31 -

The needle pegging doesn't really bother me.
Unless I hear different or be convinced to clip the green wire, I won't. Would that be the same green wire that is in the connector on the back of the Cluster? If so why not disconnect the wire there?

I was disappointed when I first installed the gauges - because of the lights being very dim. Once the correct bulbs were in - much better.

I'm planning on taking both "cans" out, cleaning and repainting where needed. My "rally pack" might have a little issue - the lights go off and on pretty easy - maybe a ground?

Just today I seen in OPGI a nice looking cluster (oil, temp, volts & fuel) with matching speedo and tach. Little pricey @ $700 - tho they did include sending units, about $50+ value

for now I'll stick with the oem versions.

 

dmark412
Since your taking them out to cleanup...
replace the plastic face to glass
WOW !! what a difference
Joe