Have a problem with points not firing. was trying to adjust points on my 1970 cutlass which has 350 when car blew back through the carb. After that it would spin but not start. Figured I burn the points, so changed out them and spun the ignition, but points were not firing. So changed the coil thing that was the problem. Still nothing, using a test light I can see that getting power from the coil to the points, but they are not arching when you spin the ignition. Have looked to see if possible grounding out somewhere but no luck. Have read on some sites about a fuzeable link, which have had no luck finding. Any recommendation would be great. Plan on switch to a HEI, but want to have it running before I start that effort. Open to any recommendations to get the car running again. Email me at john.latour@usmc.mil

 

Here is a good read on troubleshooting.
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...-ignition.html

 

Did all this and still nothing. Getting power all the way to the wires which hooks to the points, but no spark when you spin it.

 

If you have a tach installed disconnect it from the negative side of the coil. Run a jumper wire from the battery + to the coil + post on the coil, hook a test light from ground to the negative post on the coil. If you have your points gap at .016 (30* dwell) and there is fuel at the carb, you should see the test light flashing and it should start. If still does not start change your condenser.

 

No tac and tried going straight from coil to points with a different wire, just in case the one that is on was the problem. Changed condenser and used at least two different set of new points and condenser just in case that was the issue. Still no spark and the points when I spin the engine. Using a test light everything is showing that should spark. Not sure why something with just a ground and one single wire going to it is becoming such a complicated effort, not sure if missing something. Have a new distributor on order, so when it comes in plan to switch out and see if that resolved the problem.

 

When you crank the engine with the test light connected it flashes?

 

No, like I said no sparker at the points, but see that the points are showing hot with test light. The only thing I can think it can be is , it is grounding out. Tried running a direct wire from coil to point ,to rule out that line, but does not fire either. So not sure where else it would be grounding out from, since the only other wire is the ground wire and condenser. Switch to points with a built in condenser to trouble shoot that as well, with no luck. Waiting on new distributor to see if that resolves the problem. Should have it by Wednesday, if that works and get it running again switching to HEI.

 

Is your point gap set to .016? If you have power at the points, it means you have power at the coil, the coil primary is good. Make sure the ground strap inside the distributor is good and you have a good ground between the plate the points are mounted to and the distributor body. If everything tests ok above then I would suspect a bad condenser.

 

I know that I have power to the coil, plus it is a new coil. Ground wire is good, since that is new as well. Switched out condenser three times with no luck. If I manually open the points they do not spark between the points side, but will arch towards the back side. I know that sounds strange and that the points would never open that far to the tension screw on the points. Basically it does tell me I have power going to the distributor, which is telling me that the problem is confined to the distributor area. Which is what causing me lose my mind since system is really basic. So figure best solution is take the current distributor out of the picture and start with a new one and go from there. Thanks for the input, since it gives me a second set of options to insure I have not missed or overlooked something. In the end I know it will be something very simple and probably **** me off that I missed, but just what to get car running again. Once that happens, ditching points and all,going to HEI. Stuff like this makes me question why I deal with old cars or work on them.

 

There is no reason to replace the distributor (unless you want to for other reasons). Most likely, the new points are bad. Disconnect the wire to the negative side of the coil. With the key on, and with a spark tester in the coil wire, ground and then disconnect the negative side of the coil with a jumper. You should see a spark on the coil wire. Now connect the wire to the distributor and disconnect it at the points. Do the same ground/open test and again you should see spark at the coil wire. If so, the points are bad - possibly shorted internally or something.