Would anyone be able to tell me what gauges.. belong in my 1970 442 from looking at the connectors?



Right

Left

Middle


Thanks
D

 

Looks like clock, dummy lights and speedo to me?

 

This is my first olds...and I got it without gauges..
So i dont know if there were rally or standard gauges in there...
Im hoping someone can tell from the connectors..
Thx

 

Looks like idiot light wiring to me

 

Is it possible to put the real oil water rally and a tach instead of the clock? Does it involve much more than maybe rearranging pins?

 

As I understand, the wiring scheme for dummy lights or gauges (left) is the same from '68-'72 and appears the same as the ones on my '68 and '69. The left harness you have in your hand that shows:
1-tan/white stripe
2-dark brown
3-pink
4-blank
5-tan
6-blue/white stripe
7-light green
8-gray
is wired for dummy lights.
If you want to convert to gauges, it can be done. You would need the correct gauge pod and have to change the sender units for water temp and oil pressure from dummy to gauge. The wiring harness would need to be reconfigured as follows:
1-gray
2-blank
3-tan
4-blue/white stripes
5-tan/white stripes
6-pink
7-dark brown
8-light green
I'm not sure about the middle harness but it should fit on a standard '72 speedometer. It would power the dash lights (gray wire) to the speedo for night vision, as well as the turn signal indicators, emergency flasher indicators and the high beam indicator.

Hope this helps!

Best Regards,
Randy C.
'68 4-4-2 convertible
'69 4-4-2 convertible

PS: It is possible to change the right pod to a tach/clock configuration. You will need the pod that has that mechanism. There is a place in the harness that you can either connect to the dash lights(gray wire) or build an extension off of the gray wire. As I recall, there is a 12V connector in the harness (orange wire) that would just connect into the pod to run the clock. You would have to run a brown wire with an inline fuse (I believe it's 2amp) through the firewall to the negative side of the coil.

 

Thank you for this info..
I would then assume that the clock wiring in the last pic i posted is a constant battery and ground connection and id have to run the correct harness if i do decide to put a tach?

 

The orange wire is constant power for the clock. The grey wire is power for the dash lights. The clock or clock/ tach is grounded when it is bolted to the dash through the case. To add a tach you will need to add a tach wire to the negative side of the coil (original points ignition) or to the tach output (HEI distributor or MSD ignition box). This can be done with a ~14ga wire, or you can buy a reproduction of the original shielded wire like the factory used to lesson electrical interference.

 

I see a 2 grey wire pigtail and a spade bolted to the body of the clock that would belong on it. The orange and grey both go to this?

 

In the photo below, the gray pigtail powers the lights and would connect to the gray wire in your photo. The brass spade powers the clock and would connect to the orange wire in your photo.



These are the wires I referred to above


Here is a photo of the connections on the back of a tic-toc-tach (pictured is a reproduction, but the connections are similar to an original)

In the photo above, the orange wire would go to the "batt" terminal, the gray wire would go to the "inst lamp" terminal, and a wire running from the coil/ tach output would go to the "coil" terminal

 

Great info.. Thank you!

For the panel that goes over the gauges and the gauge screws, would anyone know what they look like as i have a bucket of screws to go through...
not sure how many and what they look like..

 

The gauge screws are silver, have a 1/4" hex head, and are about .5" - .75" long. The top screws for the face plate are short phillips (.25" or so) and black in color). The lower screws hold the blue plastic covers over the metal light housings. I beleive they are .5" - .75" chrome phillips.