Need to change my oil pan on my 78 Regency with a 403. Do I have enough clearance? Do I only need to move the center link out of the way and that's it? Thanks in advance.

 

Dropping the pan with the engine in the car can be done, but it isn't easy. You have to disconnect a lot of parts and raise the engine and rotate the crank so that the counterweights are in the best position for clearance. Even then, once you get the pan off you're working around the crossmember, suspension, and steering linkage while oil drips in your face. Frankly, by the time you do all that, you're really just six bellhousing bolts away from pulling the engine. Doing this on the stand with the engine rolled over is MUCH easier.

 

Um yea what he said

 

Used to do it in the car with Ford small blocks when I worked at the dealer, drop steering, sway bar, reach in and remove the oil pump pickup, drop it in the pan and like a puzzle with crank position to get it out but they were emission laden beats so it was easier than pulling the engine. Much easier pulling the engine in most cases unless it's a truck

 

I'm not sure how much of working on a Ford is relevant to a 1978 Olds.

 

Much easier pulling the engine in most cases unless it's a truck
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^ I thought this statement above might save me from the thread police but I guess not!

 

It does seem like a lot of work to pull the entire engine , but it does save you a lot of grief and there is always something else you can address while it’s out . I’m not sure why but I couldn’t even remove my oil pan off my 455 that was out of the car until I removed one motor mount , I couldn’t imagine effing with that on my back!

 

I changed the oil pump on a 350 in a 92 Olds Custom Cruiser. It was not all that hard. Not much oil dripping. Check for any clearance issues at the firewall. Raise engine (do not support it with the balancer), rotate the crank to the proper position (#1-2 counterweights in the up position 45 deg before TDC on #1), and unbolt the pan. If the center link is in the way, drop it. My OCC's steering is in front of the cross member, and not in the way.

 

Pull the engine and address the issues once. Change all the other gaskets while you are in there and do a timing chain if it is original.

 

I have1977 olds cutlass salon two door coupe with the 403 engine and I changed the oil pan and gasket in the car . You have to Jack up the engine and support it at the front pulley , I cut a block of wood with a curve to fit under the pulley and then un bolt the pan bolts and then the pan will come off easily . First thing I did was un bolt the engine mounts , then the trans mount and I put a scissor Jack under the oil pan and jacked it up for clearance and then the wood block under the pulley , then remove the scissor Jack and remove the pan and gasket , clean off everything and re install it . It worked well and should be the same on your car

 

You should never support the engine by the front pulley or harmonic balancer. You can bend the end of the crankshaft. You would do better by putting a block of wood under the engine mounts on either side of the engine. If you have an automatic trans be careful that you do not crush the trans filler tube when lifting the engine. If you have a rear mounted distributor, you may want to at least remove the cap and rotor.