64/98 Finally working on exhaust, but ran into some problems

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Old April 12th, 2015, 09:08 AM
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64/98 Finally working on exhaust, but ran into some problems

My wife was nice enough to let me have some garage time this morning. I cut most of the old 17 feet of exhaust off with a sawzall. I got one thru-bolt off of the passenger side manifold before problems arose. Then I noticed that the one thru-bolt passage on the bottom of the manifold had a big chunk of it missing. and then I noticed a crack on the other side.

So now i'm in the market for a new passenger side manifold for my 64/98 with a 394.

On the driver side, the heat riser fell out basically in pieces. I'm gonna decide if I just weld the blade holes up and reinstall it without the actually flapper in it, or try to find a usable one.

I didn't expect to get done in one day, and I got the exhaust off, so it is a start.

Adam Friday
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Old April 12th, 2015, 11:21 AM
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All 63-64 394 use the same RH exhaust manifold and I believe 61-62 are the same part # too.

I don't think you'll notice much difference without the heat riser flap unless you live in an area it gets below freezing on regular basis.
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Old April 12th, 2015, 11:47 AM
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Hi 1Fastolds,
where are you at and where can you be found, I have all the parts here but shipping might be costly depending on where you live. I've got both used and NOS heat risers for single exhaust and used RH manifolds off 63 full size.
Steve
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Old April 12th, 2015, 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Oldskeeper
Hi 1Fastolds,
where are you at and where can you be found, I have all the parts here but shipping might be costly depending on where you live. I've got both used and NOS heat risers for single exhaust and used RH manifolds off 63 full size.
Steve
Steve, I left you a pm.
Adam
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Old April 18th, 2015, 09:37 PM
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Similar Problem w/70 Delta 88

With the weather warming up I've finally gotten out to the garage to work on the Olds. I was able to remove all of the bolts from the exhaust manifold on the driver side but the corner is cracked off. Can this be weld repaired adequately or do I replace it with used or remanufactured part. Are headers a viable option? It's a 350 and I'm trying to keep cost down.
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Old April 19th, 2015, 05:09 AM
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It is very expensive to have broken cast iron fixed properly. I had a manifold done with a process called fusion welding where a special torch is used and powdered iron is blown into the flame to build up the crack. I think it cost me 400 bucks and I had to send it to california. Not worth it if another manifold can be found.
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Old April 19th, 2015, 06:09 AM
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I would look for a replacement manifold instead of repairing the damaged one. Headers are a good idea, but requires more work to make them work.
Adam
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Old April 19th, 2015, 07:03 AM
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What is the casting ID of the manifold you need replaced ?
Common #1 unit?
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Old April 19th, 2015, 12:52 PM
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I thought about shorty headers but I don't see anybody that has them for the large Oldsmobiles. I would hate for a weld to fail with regards to repairing existing. I need casting ID# 380145 LH. I saw that Thornton muscle cars of PA has new replacements for $299. If I could get a used one or a pair of used ones that should save me some money. It says "D1" below the casting ID. Is this common #1?

Last edited by 70Delta; April 19th, 2015 at 12:54 PM.
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Old April 19th, 2015, 03:15 PM
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Originally Posted by 70Delta
I thought about shorty headers but I don't see anybody that has them for the large Oldsmobiles. I would hate for a weld to fail with regards to repairing existing. I need casting ID# 380145 LH. I saw that Thornton muscle cars of PA has new replacements for $299. If I could get a used one or a pair of used ones that should save me some money. It says "D1" below the casting ID. Is this common #1?
I bet if you check on this site and eBay, you'll find one easy enough. I found one for my 394, so I know you'll find one for an olds 350. Post an ad in the "parts wanted" section. Be specific, and see what happens...
Adam
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