Hey guys, need some advice here. This looks like a spent wheel bearing, but can anyone confirm? FYI, the opposite axle is pretty tight, so it's just this one axle.


It's a Type-O 3.08 Open Diff rearend.

Do I just pull the rear axle, replace the bearing? I did this once on a 66 Mustang about 20 years ago, and I recall that I needed to have it pressed on at a machine shop. Is that needed with an Olds?

I suppose I need to cleanout the diff and replace the diff fluid, there's probably a lot of metal pieces in the diff, but is that accurate? Will bearing fragments migrate to the diff?

Thanks!

 

Looking at the 1967 Olds service manual, I need to have the bearing pressed-off and pressed-on, so I'll be out of commission for a day or so. Sucks cause this is my daily driver.

 

Will the bearing fragments get into diff lube and contaminate the diff?

 

There should not be any clips for the axle. Remove the bearing retainer and just slide the unit out. There should be a parts store that can press on your bearing.

 

Well, I just lost a long post on how to do this. I'll try again.

Some axle shafts can be hard to remove and won't pull out by hand. For those, I use a makeshift puller: a length of chain attached to the axle shaft and a spare tire. Use the mass of the wheel/tire as the puller to pop the shaft out.

For bearings removal, I lay the shaft down with the bearing on a hard surface (metal plate) and smack the bearing with a hammer. This cracks the outer race and then the rollers and cage can be removed. I then use a Dremel tool with a cut-off wheel to cut most of the way through the bearing and retainer, being EXTREMELY careful not to contact the shaft. Then put a chisel into the cut and hit it with a hammer to crack the inner race / retainer. Once cracked, they will slide right off the shaft.


The new bearings need to be installed with a shop press.

If you don't have the tools or just don't want to do it yourself, bring them to your local store as oldcutlass posted and they will do it all for you. I used to work at a parts store that did this work, which is where I learned what I posted above.

 

Thanks Guys!

I spoke with a local machine shop, and they quoted me $20 to remove the old bearings from the axle shaft and install the new bearings on the axle shaft. I'm not complaining, that's a good price for the level of effort.

 

Axle looks worn, this bearing should be snug. Also, it appears that who ever installed this didn't press the retainer on completely, that's a wide gap, or am I seeing things? Do I need another axle?

 

Once the bearing is off you will be able to see if the shaft is grooved from the inner race spinning on the shaft. That's what happened to mine, so I got a couple of good shafts from Brian Trick.

A long time back I read an article saying no matter how much force it takes to install the bearings, there is the possibility of it eventually spinning on the shaft. It was recommended to use some Loc-Tite bearing retaining compound to prevent this from happening.

 

My machine shop says the axle is toast, so I'm looking for one -> please PM me if you have one to sell. It's a '67 O-type rear, 28 spline, drivers side (if that makes any difference).

Another question, will an axle from an Olds '70 rear end work? Were these all the same (late 67 -> 71'ish)?

Thanks in advance... Paul

 

The '70 O-Type is different than the '67-'69: the outer end of the shaft is made differently as it used a different bearing and seal. You need an early axle shaft. Contact one of our resident gurus to see if they have one:

monzaz:
Home Page
http://www.jdrace.com
This Page
https://classicoldsmobile.com//forums...rs/monzaz.html


507olds:
Brian Trick
thetrickfamily@yahoo.com
814-440-3553
This Page
https://classicoldsmobile.com//forums...s/507olds.html

 

Thanks! Sent PMs to both.

 

I just saw this in the For Sale section:

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...-rearends.html

3- complete rearends
1- 66 cutlass 10 bolt posi 3.08 gear 750.00
1-72 cutlass 10 bolt open gear unknown 250.00
1-69 cutlass 12 bolt type O 2.56 gear 175.00
these are all drum to drum
will ship

 

Last time I saw that it was on the 1-yr, 1-model '64 Jetstar 88
the bearing ate into the shaft. bummer.

I probably have a shaft still in the car/diff but the other two guys can do it faster I am sure.

 

I sell NEw axle shafts for the 1964-1972 GM bolt in axle rears
You need a 29 3/4" long axle with a sealed bearing system ...
I sell the shorter early 29.25 axle shaft also with seal bearing sytems

AND the 29 3/4" long axle for the 8.2 and 12 bolt O type with the oiled bearing A9 bearing system too.

So I have you covered. I had some used ones but as you can see most have all the same issues where the bearing spins on the axle shaft after the bearing looses its grease and seizes up. Jim

PM me for prices and will need a zip code for shipping quote.
Deals for classic Olds members discount also.

 

Thanks to everyone for all the help. My car is back up and running

Several members offered to send me used axles, but unfortunately, all had scoring in the bearing location. It was a valiant effort on everyone's part, trying to recycle old axles, but I suppose that, over time, used axles will eventually disappear as an option.

Fortunately Jim (Monzaz) has new axles for a great price. Contact Jim at JDRace.com if you need help. The new axle fit perfectly

 

[QUOTE=Fun71;746234]Once the bearing is off you will be able to see if the shaft is grooved from the inner race spinning on the shaft. That's what happened to mine, so I got a couple of good shafts from Brian Trick.

Shaft can look ok visually, it has to be checked with a mic...ask me how I know.....