What is the point of this? See link below... Wouldnt this cause an imbalanced axle at high speed, even if you put one on the other side?? Also, wouldnt the weld touch the seal?? clearance is minimmal from lock to seal...

http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tec.../photo_11.html

 

those are for autocross ?Is that like desert racing or on a track like motocross with cars? probably dont want the axle to pop off and dont care about the rest.

 

In autocross you race around a road course that is usually set up in a parking lot or airport tarmac. It is mainly a test of your cars handling ability rather than straight line acceleration. I've not tried it myself, but its a lot of fun to watch!

 

the seal is on the other side of the bearing. the weld won't touch anything on that side.

 

I don't see any added weight apart from if the disc and calliper assembly weigh more than the drum setup.
The welds are the other side of the seal, I don't see how the welds would touch the seal.
I wouldn't weld an axle shaft, seems to me it might weaken the metal at a critical load point, but I'm not about to tell these guys they are doing it wrong.

Roger.

 

The weld is very close to where the seal rides, it goes Bearing, then lock then seal... If you weld it, you weld it between the seal and the lock, AM I MISSING SOMETHING? Someone please explain how a weld weakens an axle?

 

Well I see the purpose on the side loads. This will only be an issue when the axle components heat up. On a race the rear will heat up and all parts will expand causing the press fit of the retaining collar to relax. So that is the reason for the weld job.
NO it will not cause a imbalance as it is too close to the center line of the spinning core. The further you get from the center of the objects center line the more the weight added to it will throw off the balance.

Another thing is that the calipers will hold the rotors which are bolted to the axles this help from axles sliding too far.

THE best idea in this situation is to just have custom retainer collars made a couple thousands tighter than stock - DONE. You have already spent a ton of money on the car what is a nother 25-30 for some custom made collars from a machine shop.

Another thing is, why not pay for good aftermarket axles too?? Such a nice car to cheapen out now...lol. Jim

 

Welding - any time you weld a casting you have a chance to over heat an area which will cause area to be brittle - The guy appears not to of put that much weld and heat so I doubt hell have an issue.
NOW it will be a pain in the butt when the bearing goes bad on replacing the bearings etc. because he will have to grind the area clean to repress the bearing and retain collar on again.

The more welding and grinding you do to your stock axles those will all add up to weak areas and sooner or later will cause a failure.

IT is something we all need to weigh when modifying parts etc. AS long as you are willing to take your lumps when things go bad ... Do what you need to.

Jim
JD

 

I've seen people do that with the locks on the c-clip eliminator bearings on the Chevy axles.I would be more concerned with the ball-bearing style bearing withstanding the increased sideloads of a roadcourse style car.Those bearings are better off going straight ahead.I know,both GM & Ford used a style of bearing like that,but I also know that the ones like what is shown,are what have a history of self-destructing,compared to a roller or taper-roller bearing.

 

The bearing, whatever type, has to take the side loads. It is pressed onto the forged axle (not cast!) and the retaining ring must have several thousandths of press fit to help keep the bearing from sliding. Those rings are one-time use only. Never weld to the axle shaft or you are asking it to break there. The retaining ring is removed by splitting it with a chisel--in some cases the chisel will help it expand before splitting and it will slide off. As noted above, there are different types of bearings, some better than others; different quality and press fit retaining rings.

 

I learned a great time saving trick getting them off. I cut a notch in the ing with the plasma cutter. A couple taps in the slot with a chisel and you have it off.

 

maybe i am the one missing something, lol. i watched the guy pressing the bearings on my axle and he had the seals on the outside of the bearings. he never put any seals on that side. if you were to use taper bearings how would they get oiled if the seal was on that side? i am not a rear end guy so maybe i missed something when he built my rear end.

 

Welding involves heating up beyond melting point the parts being joined, an axle shaft or a garden gate, the same thing happens.

Iron and steel comes in many forms for its various applications, added carbon, molebdynum, chromium, silicates to name a few, and for many applications how they are cooled after they are made is part of the process.

When you apply melting point heat to specially hardened parts (such as an axle shaft) you are changing the characteristics of the metal, often reducing its strength and introducing distortion.

Thats why I wont weld hardened parts. I'm not saying watch the axle break, if it works for the popularhotrodding guys thats fine, I dare say they don't have breaking shaft issues.

Roger.

 

That 65 belongs to one of the photographers for the magazine,and I'm sure there were a few other things fudged on there.
JensenRacing77,
Your 70 O-axle uses a different style bearing/seal configuration,compared to the older ones.Your axle uses a roller bearing,with an outboard seal.The older ones used a sealed ball-bearing,with an inboard seal.

 

Im pushing maybe 400horse and have an automatic, i dont think ill break them... Its also been very difficult to locate a 5.5" yoke with 3R joint ends. Are you saying the 1310 joint would be garbage?

 

B.O.P rears do not come in 1310 (1 1/16 cup) from the factory only M3R 1 1/8" cup...
There are 2 different Yoke seal type for the 1964-1970 cutlass ALL use the U bolt and nut retention system.
1st is in the early housing that I call the BUICK yoke and seal
seal is a 8620 27 spline yoke
2nd is the Later design that I call the Pontiac yoke LArger seal diameter surface 1.94 it is also used on the 12 bolt Olds housings. 2043 seal 27 spline yoke.

The same seal is used on the 8.5 corp rears too BUT the yoke spline is 30

Make sure you know what seal surface diameter your yoke is so you can get the correct one.

Check the yoke picture...Is this what yours looks like? If so I think we have some on the shelf... What is broke or bad on yours as they do have sleeve repair kits for the seal ride surface.

Jim
JD