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I've been doing my homework and think I have a good handle on this (yeah, right), but I'm wondering what I should be on the lookout for. I'm changing the open diff to a posi unit in my 10 bolt corporate. Of course experience is the master, of which I have none. Is it going to be like squaring up my chop saw; getting it perfect until I tighten everything down and then it's way off? (Yes, cheap saw). I"ll also be replacing all the bushings while I'm in there. Are these videos legit?
I've been doing my homework and think I have a good handle on this (yeah, right), but I'm wondering what I should be on the lookout for. I'm changing the open diff to a posi unit in my 10 bolt corporate. Of course experience is the master, of which I have none. Is it going to be like squaring up my chop saw; getting it perfect until I tighten everything down and then it's way off? (Yes, cheap saw). I"ll also be replacing all the bushings while I'm in there. Are these videos legit?
Any bolts need a good soaking with PB Blaster? Etc.?
I used his method for removing the bushings with success. You should pre-spray all the nuts ahead of time. You will need an inch pound torque wrench. I cleaned and POR15 the whole axle housing. Make a list of all the parts you'll need. IE brake lines, hoses, clips, etc. Be careful not to squash you control arms when re-installing your bushings. i assume you have a press. You will also need to make a test bearing using your old pinion bearing for testing and shimming pinion depth. Good luck it's a big job.
No, no press. In the video he hammers them in with a little oil. I'm hoping for that. If not, I have a garage down the road. And for the bearing and ring, I'm going to try the freezer/oven trick. Again, if I get in trouble, the garage down the road.
I have an inch lb wrench and Copper lent me a dummy bearing. I have a depth gauge set from summit but I can't find any instructions on how to use it. I also have a dial indicator with magnetic base, digital caliper, dead blow hammer, electric impact gun and sockets.
I've set aside the entire week for the project and am hoping to not need much more.
Last edited by Macadoo; June 12th, 2016 at 04:58 PM.
Mac I hope the install goes well for you, I didn't install mine but I was certainly happy when I got the car back.
You really need to stop injuring yourself haha, I enjoy doing little things on my Olds, but for the big jobs I leave it to the professionals haha. It just sucks laying the cash down on the counter sometimes.
I sit here in "awe" thinking man you always do a great job working on your car.
I'm following here.
Hope its smooth sailing for you,
Cheers
Eric
Mac I think you have my number. Although i wont be able to make it since i got a few irons in fire call me if you need anything. My first set up was done in the car and it took me about 5 hours. most of it was shimming stuff and fine tuning. i didn't use a depth gauge but im sure it makes it a little faster . I worked in a machine shop making ring gears/ pinons and even though we established installed figures on the tester it will always change as backing plates and even the machines will not truly mimic the housing it sits in.
we cut anywhere from 20 in. gears to 120 in. gears mainly 60 in. plus This one was a 60 in. gear. learned alot working there.
Will that gear you're sitting on make my car faster??? Lol, great pic. And yeah, I've got your number and you can bet I'll use it. I think all the disassembly and cleaning will take the most time.
Eric, so here's the problem; I don't trust anyone to do the work but me! Lol, it's a curse.
Question; will the bolts that hold the axles in be difficult to remove. I mean, should I loosen them before unbolting the rear? I won't have room to pull them out until I pull the entire rear end out.
You loosen the axle retaning plates and pull the axle out the plate comes with it. if you have a slide hammer a few taps should do it. There is holes on the lugnut flange that make access a breeze with a socket and extension. I have pulled axles out in a one car garage its possible lol. Try it before its out just for ease becasue sometimes it is harder on the ground but its heavy enough where if you are over powering the axles weight to remove the axle something is wrong.
Will that gear you're sitting on make my car faster??? Lol, great pic. And yeah, I've got your number and you can bet I'll use it. I think all the disassembly and cleaning will take the most time.
Eric, so here's the problem; I don't trust anyone to do the work but me! Lol, it's a curse.
Question; will the bolts that hold the axles in be difficult to remove. I mean, should I loosen them before unbolting the rear? I won't have room to pull them out until I pull the entire rear end out.
If you have a motorcycle jack it wil help both with the removal and install. Good luck!
X2 rith RROLDSX . I did em with regular jacks for years lol. Never again after this last time i got a motorcycle jack from a fellow olds racer and friend for free and its sooooo much easier lol. specially if you are still recovering.
Thanks for the info, fellas. The motorcycle jack spreads the weight out more? I may use my trans jack for just that purpose.
I have it jacked up with the rear stands on the frame but the stands seem a little far forward. But I can't gt them any further back. What do you think? Safe? I'm also a little leery of the plywood but I've used them before.
Also, if I loosen this bolt, will the rubber brake line slide out of the rear of this "T"?
Getting a slow start but I'm shooting for no more injuries! Lol.
If you are taking the whole axle out of the car disconnect the brake hose at the other end.
To remove the parking brake cable at each wheel, use a small worm clamp around the plastic retainer claws and you'll be able to remove them without damage. I kept the front end of the car on the ground to give me more room at the back but your call. The motorcycle jack is more stable because it has four wheels and you can turn the axle to different angles but you'll be fine with a transmission jack. Good Luck!
Ditch the plywood blocks the car could slide off the stands, There is a reason for the frame grips of the jack stands. If you need more height use concrete stepping stones under the jack stands. But only one per jack stand. Or buy taller jack stands
If you are taking the whole axle out of the car disconnect the brake hose at the other end.
To remove the parking brake cable at each wheel, use a small worm clamp around the plastic retainer claws and you'll be able to remove them without damage. I kept the front end of the car on the ground to give me more room at the back but your call. The motorcycle jack is more stable because it has four wheels and you can turn the axle to different angles but you'll be fine with a transmission jack. Good Luck!
Huh, I replied about an hour ago but it didn't go through. Oh well.
Thanks for the e-brake heads-up. I was wondering how I was going to do that. I lifted both ends because I was having trouble with the frame-to-stand geometry. With the front end on the ground the frame was tilting the jack stands.
My transmission jack is also on four rubber wheels and moves quite easily. It's a Harbor Freight...
Originally Posted by citcapp
Ditch the plywood blocks the car could slide off the stands, There is a reason for the frame grips of the jack stands. If you need more height use concrete stepping stones under the jack stands. But only one per jack stand. Or buy taller jack stands
No, height is not a problem. I've seen guys use plywood to help the stand conform to the frame surface. Without it the stand [tines?] will be the only surface touching the frame. I'll remove them if you think it's best.
I also added my floor jack to one side and truck jack to the other. They're not taking weight off the stands, just in there tight. Might buy me a few more seconds if something were to happen. (knocking on wood it doesn't).
Here's something interesting I found. And I thought I had a warped drum. I was having trouble getting those shoes to fit properly but thought I solved the issue.
If you are taking the whole axle out of the car disconnect the brake hose at the other end.
To remove the parking brake cable at each wheel, use a small worm clamp around the plastic retainer claws and you'll be able to remove them without damage. I kept the front end of the car on the ground to give me more room at the back but your call. The motorcycle jack is more stable because it has four wheels and you can turn the axle to different angles but you'll be fine with a transmission jack. Good Luck!
I usually disconnect the hard lines from the block on that hose in your picture. If you disconnect the hard lines at the wheel cylinders you also have to undo the hard lines from their clamps along the axle tube, then be careful not to bend the lines when you are moving the axle around.
In answer to your earlier question, that bolt holds the block to the diff. The rubber hose is molded into it and will not come out.
Last edited by Fun71; June 13th, 2016 at 12:36 PM.
Hold up a sec....wait, I think I get it. Disconnect the lines from the block and unbolt the block so it's free from the diff. That should work. Progress is slower than I expected but surely happening. The axles bolts loosened quite easily.
Hold up a sec....wait, I think I get it. Disconnect the lines from the block and unbolt the block so it's free from the diff. That should work. Progress is slower than I expected but surely happening. The axles bolts loosened quite easily.
I think he meant undo the end of the rubber line that goes to the frame cross rail and attaches to the hard line there. Pull the clip loose and then you don't have to do anything with the block or hard lines along the housing.
Do I recall that your brake job was fairly recent?
I actually had issues disconnecting the hose from the frame rail area, but not all vehicles may be as difficult as mine. Loosening the hard lines form the block on top of the diff was easier, especially as I had the correct size tubing wrenches.
Inspect the hose closely for cracking - it may need to be replaced after all these years.
Okie dokie, I'll go for the frame rail first and if not there, then the block. I have the correct tubing wrenches also. I kind of started at the block but the nuts seemed a little soft so I didn't push it. I'll also have a good look at the hose.
Thanks again, guys.
Looking good Mac, I hope you pull this off without injury. On a side note.. I'm wondering if bonded shoes would be the better way to go when you get to the rear brakes.
I hear ya on doing things yourself, you get a much better result and feeling. Its the I built it feeling. As much as I would enjoy doing it, I wouldn't be able to pull it off myself LOL. So I pays my money and I takes my chances LOL.
Just stay safe man, your threads are always awesome I/we want you around here for many years.
[QUOTE=Macadoo;927881]Okie dokie, I'll go for the frame rail first and if not there, then the block. I have the correct tubing wrenches also. I kind of started at the block but the nuts seemed a little soft so I didn't push it. I'll also have a good look at the hose.
Thanks again, guys.[/QUOTE
Sorry Mac I had to leave for the day. Yes, I mean't to disconnect the hose from the frame rail. Just tap the retainer clip out. Much easier, plus you MOW replace that rubber line anyway. I usually jack my car up from the rear center just behind the sway bar. I have a high lift 3 ton jack so I can get the car way up. Good luck.
Looking good Mac, I hope you pull this off without injury. On a side note.. I'm wondering if bonded shoes would be the better way to go when you get to the rear brakes.
I hear ya on doing things yourself, you get a much better result and feeling. Its the I built it feeling. As much as I would enjoy doing it, I wouldn't be able to pull it off myself LOL. So I pays my money and I takes my chances LOL.
Just stay safe man, your threads are always awesome I/we want you around here for many years.
Eric
That "I did it myself" feeling takes an awful lot of ibuprofen to make go away, lol.
I'll behave. I promise
[QUOTE=RROLDSX;927930]
Originally Posted by Macadoo
Okie dokie, I'll go for the frame rail first and if not there, then the block. I have the correct tubing wrenches also. I kind of started at the block but the nuts seemed a little soft so I didn't push it. I'll also have a good look at the hose.
Thanks again, guys.[/QUOTE
Sorry Mac I had to leave for the day. Yes, I mean't to disconnect the hose from the frame rail. Just tap the retainer clip out. Much easier, plus you MOW replace that rubber line anyway. I usually jack my car up from the rear center just behind the sway bar. I have a high lift 3 ton jack so I can get the car way up. Good luck.
Will do, man. And no apologies necessary, I appreciate the help.
Oh, and Eric, I had problems with those shoes from the beginning. It's been a while but I do recall a fitment issue. I dunno', I may have had something put together wonky (even though it all looked right). I'll get a new kit along with the shoes and see what happens.
Well, it's unhooked and down. Ran into some trouble with the lower control arm upper bolts being blocked by the exhaust. Had to unbolt a lot of it and pry it to the side to get the bolts out (both sides). I figured I'd just reverse the bolts when I put them back in so the bolt comes out the frame side but then I noticed the bolt has a flange on the head end so I don't suppose I can do that. Good thing I didn't tighten the exhaust back up yet.
And then I got to thinkin' (always a bad idea for me), why the heck do all that cleaning and painting and bushing replacement on these stock control arms. SO I bought these instead:
Hopefully the anti-sway bar mounting holes in those lower arms are sleeved so that when you tighten the bolts the arms don't crush. Or maybe the arms are so solid they won't crush anyway.
Holy jumpin, nice new addition in suspension parts. Every time I go on a little spending spree like that my Wife says " Yup your ADD is acting up again ". ( automobile deficit disorder)
I like them new parts Mac, I guess your planning on making it stick really well for them 3:73 gears haha.
I'm still following along, Your doing an awesome job!!
Cheers
Eric
be carefull replacing the bushings on the rear end housing those ears are like glass.
What i did was i drilled inside the metal sleeve of the original bushing around the diameter. essentially you end up drilling the rubber out. Once its out you grab a small chisel and hammer the sleeve down on both ends. once it shrinks it comes right out.
Holy jumpin, nice new addition in suspension parts. Every time I go on a little spending spree like that my Wife says " Yup your ADD is acting up again ". ( automobile deficit disorder)
I like them new parts Mac, I guess your planning on making it stick really well for them 3:73 gears haha.
I'm still following along, Your doing an awesome job!!
Cheers
Eric
Lol, ADD, I love it!
Actually, I feel like I'm way behind schedule and over budget. Oh wait, I AM behind schedule and over budget. But it happens every time. The wife is off tomorrow so I think I'll rest and watch movies (until she falls asleep and then I sneak out to the shop)
Originally Posted by coppercutlass
be carefull replacing the bushings on the rear end housing those ears are like glass.
What i did was i drilled inside the metal sleeve of the original bushing around the diameter. essentially you end up drilling the rubber out. Once its out you grab a small chisel and hammer the sleeve down on both ends. once it shrinks it comes right out.
I used an air hammer with a chisel that I ground flat to drive the old bushings out and the new ones in. That made the job a whole lot easier than the first 2 or 3 times when I used a hammer.
The round ones are fine for cornering but for drag racing you want the boxed ones. Modern cars come with tubular control arms and they fold pretty easy. Square imo is alot more sturdy but its your car your call.
Actually, Kenneth brings up a good point. If those housing ears are like glass, how should I go about getting the new ones in? Hammer, oil, and a wood block?
The round ones are fine for cornering but for drag racing you want the boxed ones. Modern cars come with tubular control arms and they fold pretty easy. Square imo is alot more sturdy but its your car your call.
Yeah thats the way on the video lol.
I'll keep my old control arms and get them boxed eventually. Cleaned and painted too. Maybe with my own custom logo..."macOLDS".
On a side note; the bushings in the lower control arms are in very good shape. The uppers, not so much.
I boxed my stock ones with 1/4 in. plate across the whole bottom and i used bushings metal sleeves in the holes for the sway bar to not crush it. 6 years later im actually going to finally install a rear sway bar lol. Im just a cheap bastard so i try to not spend money on stuff i dont need/ i can fab and make. I have a set of stock uppers i modified to be adjustable. I just need to get around to welding it all up and installing lol.
June 12th, 2016, 10:56 AM
