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And then I got to thinkin' (always a bad idea for me), why the heck do all that cleaning and painting and bushing replacement on these stock control arms.
Actually, Kenneth brings up a good point. If those housing ears are like glass, how should I go about getting the new ones in? Hammer, oil, and a wood block?
"the quality of the tool was good, but it did not fit properly on the bushing ear of my 10 bolt GM axle. I ended up using the bolt and washers and making my own tool out of some steel pipe. I would say it was a lot to pay for a bolt and some washers"
What about a stack of fender washers and some all-thread? And a large pipe nipple?
What about a stack of fender washers and some all-thread? And a large pipe nipple?
Your mileage may vary, but I don't recommend it. I spent far too much time trying to find just the right diameter pipe and having to modify it anyway -- only to collapse the washers and completely strip the threads on the all-thread when I tried to use it. Sure, maybe if I had greased it better it would've survived, but what was really needed was a tool-steel threaded shaft and washers. In other words, a real tool made for the job.
Last edited by BlackGold; Jun 15, 2016 at 02:32 PM.
Your mileage may vary, but I don't recommend it. I spent far too much time trying to find just the right diameter pipe and having to modify it anyway -- only to collapse the washers and completely strip the threads on the all-thread when I tried to use it. Sure, maybe if I had greased it better it would've survived, but what was really needed was a tool-steel threaded shaft and washers. In other words, a real tool made for the job.
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My local Autozone rents this tool; what luck! I looked online but couldn't find specific diameters of the adapters but it did say for most GM rear wheel drive cars. So, for the price of tax, I'll have a press for a time. My local Autozone's employees don't know a tie-rod from a lug nut but this is a policy I can get behind
I've got the bushings out of the ears, the axle shafts out and the old carrier removed. Any tips on getting the pinion out? It seems stuck in there but good.
Have you removed the flange from the pinion shaft already? That has to come off before the gear comes out. Breaking the pinion nut loose at this point may be a bit difficult.
After the flange is off, the gear should come out relatively easily.
Thanks but I've already beaten the nut to a pulp (it wasn't difficult). Maybe I'm not being forceful enough.
Sorry, my limited experience is with a 12 bolt. There may be something else funky going on here. I would let it soak with penetrant and let some else chime in. It could have been overheated but I don't know.
This diagram is a little confusing, I have the yoke pictured in lower right but do I have two pinion bearings?
Yes, the big one at the back is pressed on and the front smaller one could be kinda pressed on with the crush sleeve but you should be able to take a 5 pound hammer and a punch and give it a wrap right on the pinion to remove. Hit the center of the pinion, I'm thinking you pinion nut is soft and is absorbing most of the blow. Be careful with the threads obviously.
Turns out I was just being too meek, and with a plastic coated 2 lb hammer (let the ribbing begin). Yes, the front bearing was pressed on there pretty good. I used just a wee bit of heat from a pencil-tip butane torch, right on the bearing. My claw hammer and a block of wood made quick work of it.
That crush sleeve is actually fairly loose on there. Slid right off.
Tomorrow, the cleaning starts....and is sorely needed.
The dude (at the local garage) that helped me with the first (bad) transmission lent me his slide hammer. Nice guy.
Yeah, the bushings didn't go like the video at all. Not sure how he got the drill bit to circle the rubber but mine would not. Ended up drilling through in several places and then it just pushed out. Used a punch to crease the sleeve a little and they knocked right out too. What a mess!
How are you finding the stability of the car on the axle stands? Any issues crawling under and yanking on things?
Well VI, I'm actually quite claustrophobic so yeah, I haven't been crazy about it. However, it's been very stable and a couple hours into the day, I'm not even thinking about it (much). And I really had to pry on the mufflers (after loosening them) to get the lower control arm upper bolts to clear. These are the 6-ton jack stands from Harbor Freight so they're pretty solid. And tall. Very tall.
Well VI, I'm actually quite claustrophobic so yeah, I haven't been crazy about it. However, it's been very stable and a couple hours into the day, I'm not even thinking about it (much). And I really had to pry on the mufflers (after loosening them) to get the lower control arm upper bolts to clear. These are the 6-ton jack stands from Harbor Freight so they're pretty solid. And tall. Very tall.
Good to know...I've got 3 ton stands that I have my doubts about on the higher lift so I think I'll be looking for a set of four 6 ton babies. I'll feel a lot better doing similar work then.
Looks like you're coming along nicely on this job, thanks for taking the time to document it so well once again. I know my turn to do that job is coming and as always I'm picking up a lot from your experiences!
Good to know...I've got 3 ton stands that I have my doubts about on the higher lift so I think I'll be looking for a set of four 6 ton babies. I'll feel a lot better doing similar work then.
Looks like you're coming along nicely on this job, thanks for taking the time to document it so well once again. I know my turn to do that job is coming and as always I'm picking up a lot from your experiences!
We learn from our mistakes so I'll be sure to make plenty just for you, VI, lol. Let me know when you start. It's a big job, man. Are you pulling the rear or leaving it in the car?
Originally Posted by 76olds
Looking good Mac!! Geez,.. I had to take a couple advil and tylenol just to get through the pictures lol.
I'll likely be switching rearends altogether. I'm currently tearing down my '70 parts Cutlass which appears to have had a complete drivetrain transplant when it was rebuilt. 455, TH400 and limited slip rear...high probability they'll find a new home in my '71.
Oh dude, a big block? I'm oily with envy! Will you stick with the TH400? I thought about sticking with a TH350 but I put the Cutty in 2nd and ran her up to 3200 RPM to see what it would be like. I freaked after about 90 seconds, lol.
These new control arms look high quality to me (although I'm only comparing them to the stock CAs). They're heavy and the welds look good. And yes, the sway bar holes are indeed sleeved.
These new control arms look high quality to me (although I'm only comparing them to the stock CAs). They're heavy and the welds look good. And yes, the sway bar holes are indeed sleeved.
Lol, actually RROLDSX, they're BMI which are supposed to be good too.
A long day of cleaning and scrubbing and scraping and cleaning, and wiping and spraying and scrubbing and wiping and....and.....
But it's all clean and most of it painted. Good ol' Rustoleum. It's not Por 15 but I used it on my front end and other than a ton of bugs, still looks good.
Tomorrow I start assembling the ring and pinion. Wish me luck!
Wow - really shaping up Mac. You're making it look easy, and I know it's not! Good luck with the guts! I expect to hear some chirps in a few days, and it won't be birds
Originally Posted by Macadoo
A long day of cleaning and scrubbing and scraping and cleaning, and wiping and spraying and scrubbing and wiping and....and.....
But it's all clean and most of it painted. Good ol' Rustoleum. It's not Por 15 but I used it on my front end and other than a ton of bugs, still looks good.
Tomorrow I start assembling the ring and pinion. Wish me luck!
Oh dude, a big block? I'm oily with envy! Will you stick with the TH400? I thought about sticking with a TH350 but I put the Cutty in 2nd and ran her up to 3200 RPM to see what it would be like. I freaked after about 90 seconds, lol.
Yep, a big block :-)...Hasn't run for over a decade so I'll be pulling the heads and pan to give it a good checking over. If my luck holds up with this car, it will be ready to run after a cleaning.
Haven't decided on the 400 yet, but I will probably go with it and keep the drivetrain together. I'm told a 350 with a shiftkit can handle a 455 and that was my original plan. I didn't know I had the 400 in the car until last Sunday. Did I mention console shift?
