I know it has probably been asked a thousand time under different variations so here is my variation.
1966 cutlass 2spd jetaway, 3.08 open end, stock 14" tires.
What do you think would get me a little better out of the hole performance, besides a 455 and a th400.
I will not be driving it much but maybe a little highway and am not sure what is considered to high of RPM's for a duration on a stock 330 4bbl is.
I would like to try 3.73's but 3.55's seem like they would be a little easier on the engine but if it is just once or twice a year on the highway at 70-75 would it hurt it that bad.
Hope everyone understands my question after the rambling. 3.73 or 3.55? Thanks!

 

Personally I would go with a TH350 before changing the gears. That 2 speed trans is hurting you more than the 3.08 is by a long shot.

 

x2

a th350 will bolt right in place.
Use a shorter tire as well. 22" or so.

 

Yeah I know the tranny is a killer but it is freshly rebuilt right before i bought it and it and the engine run like a swiss watch. Plus I am more of an original kind of a person and ring and pinion set is easier to store than a transmission. I know it will not set any land speed records just a little help out of the hole.

 

The problem is with that 2 speed trans you're killing yourself by changing gears. It's really a no win situation. And believe it or not it should be a lot cheaper to swap the trans than the gears.

 

Would it be long or short tail shaft Does it matter which one, what stall, will my drive shaft work do I have to drill any holes would the shifter linkages work what exactly is the process. You were right this is pretty cheap.http://columbus.craigslist.org/bar/1943539840.html

 

Do the TH350, as many have suggested.

 

My car is a 66 cutlass so do I just need the kickdown cable from the carb without any cable from the gas pedal. If so is this the parts I will need
http://www.jegs.com/i/Lokar/625/KD-2350HT/10002/-1
The spring and bracket kit is the part number in the description. Do not care about being able to get 1st manually so that and the indicator panel are a non issue. are the vacum lines in the same place what do the cable mounting brackets look like.

 

OMG, save the $65, and spend $8 at the wrecking yard.
Use the late 70's factory stuff!!!
ALL of the late 70's through mid 80's RWD cars used this as a downshifting mechanism.
If you want new, get a downshift cable for a 79 Trans Am, will cost about $30 at Checker/Autozone.
Do NOT get a cable for the T-200, the transmission side has a smaller hole that it goes into.
The carb bracket is a factory unit from anything 76 through like 85....260, 350, 403, or 307 powered car. $5 at the "you pull it" yard.
Hell, I know I have 1 or 2 extras in the garage.
Vacuum lines are in the same place.

I went to a mid 80's big car throttle cable, and gas pedal, so I kept the top hole on the carburetor bracket. I tossed the uncomfortable, awkward, and sticky 65 (same as yours) throttle arm setup. My buddy did this to my old 66 Cutlass, and it is a MUCH BETTER setup, much more comfortable, and it does not stick.

You will love that transmission, over the 2 speed.
Good luck,
Jim

 

Well my uncle has a th350 out of one of his 78 T/A's. He said he would have ot look for the kick down cable he should have the carb bracket also. I will be checking back in a few months once I replace all of the seals paint it up and am ready to put in because I have never done this and I am sure I will run into problems. Thanks for all of the help.