Ok so my rear end is whining on acceleration at around 35 mph or so and stops around 45 mph and then whines again at 55 and so on and so on..
Anyways I'd like to rebuild it and use the 3.90's again. The problem is I don't have any set up tools? Where do you find them at and are they expensive? Thanks

 

I bought the tools I needed and they weren't very expensive. A beam style inch-pound torque wrench (0-60 in-lbs) was around $25, a dial indicator with magnetic base was around $30 online from Enco Tools, and a Harbor Freight shop press were the only "new" tools that I needed. The shop press was the most expensive - I think it was on sale at Harbor Freight for around $100 at the time, but it can be used for a lot of other jobs.

Beam style torque wrench
$25
https://www.autozone.com/wrenches-pl...nch/752621_0_0

$24
https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-03727A-4-Inch-Torque-Wrench/dp/B01FMXEWQC/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=beam+torque+wrench+in ch+pounds&qid=1597104220&sr=8-2
.
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Dial Indicator $30

 

ok I have the dial indicator and access to a press and the torque wrench I'll have to get...
What about setting up pinion depth?

 

That is done by the contact pattern of the gear teeth.

 

Monzas has a method to set the pinion without sacrificing a dozen crush sleeves.
Do a search here and on Google which usually works better and takes you right back here.

Easier to do with the rear out of the car or on a lift. Not on your back. You really need leverage to crush the sleeve.

Do some homework on pressing bearings properly, support and minimizing gall.
I like to chill the stationary surface and warm the bearing when possible. Slides on like butter with a little thermodynamics, minimizing gall transfer.

Always keep the carrier saddles marked L & R and top n bottom.

Buy the best quality bearings, races, and seals available(read no offshore junk)
ARP fasteners are a good investment throughout the assembly.

 

Off-shore Japanese is okay. If they're name brand (SKF and F.A.G., for example), they'll even get made in other Asian countries like Thailand or Taiwan. They are machine-made and if not fakes, they'll comply with company standards. I've used them in critical places and I've not had any trouble with them That's the one item of which I'd least go cheap on. There's no such thing as wasting money on quality tools. Buying cheap ones is false economy and can wreak more expense in the long run

 

I'll look it up, and I do have a lift. Thanks

I know with Ford's you have to have the gauge block and gauge tube to set the pinion depth.. Wasn't for sure if that's what this rear end needed to set it up also?

 

Well your rear is already assembled, not a bunch of parts in a box, so you can simply start with the pinion shims that are currently installed, then use the gear mesh pattern to fine tune the depth.

 

ok cool. Excuse my ignorance I've never done a rear end and wasn't for sure what was needed. Thank you for the help thus far
n

 

I would say check the gear mesh pattern before you take it all apart. That will give you an idea of what needs to be adjusted.

 

These plus a decent impact and socket to crush the sleeve. Also need something to hold the yoke, I used my arbor plates from my HF press clamped between 2 pieces of 1/2" plywood to strike the impact against.

To set the pinion depth, I used some aluminum right-angle I had laying around to put in the carrier saddle and a depth gauge to see where the rear pinion bearing sat WRT the C/L of the carrier bearings / axles / ring gear. Subtracting out the thickness of the pinion (face to bearing surface), the spec'd pinion depth etched on my Richmond gearset and adding 1/2 the carrier bearing diameter leaves you with the required shim stack thickness. I was able to get the shim stack dead-on on my first try. Then its just a matter of shimming the carrier side to side to get the right backlash, and the resulting mesh pattern was spot-on. Add the crush sleeve, torque it to get the right pinion bearing preload (as measured by spinning the pinion w/ the oz-in torque wrench), add carrier shims for preload, and it was good to go. It won't hurt to have an extra crush sleeve on hand, it took me 2 tries to get the pinion preload set properly (hard to sneak up on it using an impact).

 

Will do..

I'll get a couple sleeves and check the mesh pattern and go from there..thanks