I read with interest the posts about the switch pitch converter used from 65-67. About a month ago the carb was rebuilt and the gentleman working on the carb noted that on his test drive the transmission didn't kickdown properly. He said "there is a spring missing but everything else looks fine". I had the transmission completely rebuilt as one of the first things I did after I bought the car... and the brakes brought up to snuff. As I had less than 100 miles on the transmission I went back to the shop and asked about it.

After explaining to me that there was a 12V switch on the throttle that would energize a solenoid at WOT the man who did the rebuild checked all the electrical connections and said I'd have to come back and make an appointment so he could get the car on the lift.

Interestingly when I left there the engine sounded different and lo and behold the transmission would kickdown when I got into it. Seems like he broke some corrosion off the connections while he was "checking it out" and now it will kickdown. BUT I did notice the engine revved higher initially and would change RPMs if I even put my foot into it a little.

SO I got on ClassicOldsmobile to do some research. That I when I found out about the switch pitch converter. In one of the longer threads there was a discussion about the torque converted being connected to the carb or distributor. Coincidently with the kickdown starting to work my car now idles like crap and almost stalls when not moving.

Here is my question: if the carb was just rebuilt and was running fine BEFORE the kickdown issue was "fixed" and now the kickdown is fine but the engine idles like crap... is it possible that what happened in the torque converter it having an effect on the carb? With my limited knowledge it seems unlikely to be connected but I seem to remember a post talking about a connection but why they are connected I didn't understand.

Any light shedding on this would be helpful. Maybe I just need the carb lightly adjusted.

Thank you all,
Jeff

 

Check for a vacuum line that's cracked or loose - with all those hands around there, probably what happened.

 

The switch pitch might have been locked in 1 mode or the other when it was malfunctioning. You may just need an idle speed and an A/F adjustment.

 

In the factory shop manual there is a procedure in the tune-up section to check the switch pitch. I believe you need a test light and the throttle rod gets adjusted in or out. This could be the problem but it could also be a carb issue as well.