I have a 71' Cutlass Vert thats all original. 4-barrel 350w/ 350 trans. I want to swap my gears to 3.43 posi traction. What all do I have to order? Who has the best prices? All info is greatly appriciated!!!

 

I can supply the parts,or MonzaZ,or you can just get everything from Summit.The prices will depend on what type or brand of posi unit you buy,the brand of gearset,& brand of bearings,etc.
One option I can offer is a new Eaton posi unit,Motive 3:42 gears,a complete Timken bearing seal kit(including axle bearings),pinion & carrier shims,crush sleeve,compound,etc. This would be $750.00 shipped to your door in Louisiana.

 

Will this be everything I need?

 

I'd order up a nice BIC pen, and cut a check to Brian for a direct bolt in replacement rear end.

 

Yeah I have been thinking about this for my 1972 with the original 2. something something gears. Around $750 for everything shipped? That's not too bad. Any idea how much it costs to have someone put all these goodie in for me? I have never touch a rear end before ( hee hee ) and want it done right.

 

That will be everything that you need. You will reuse your housing,axle shafts,yoke,& rear cover.Everything inside is replaced.
If you want a whole rear,I can do that too.
I don't know what your shops charge for gear installations.Those prices seem to have a wide range.I charge $300.00. That is everything from start to finish.

 

If you're going Posi, get an EATON, I was told they are rebuildable where others are not. Steer clear of Auburns.
Big Gear Head on the TeamChevelle, TeamCamaro, and Nastyz28 forums is a HUGE guru.

Me , I'm just gutting the rear end out because it's cheaper to put a complete Chevy 12 Bolt in there
I got a 12 Bolt 69 Chevelle rear end with a new EATON posi, Richmond 3.73 gears, Timken kit, 31 spline Strange axles,
and T/A cover. Still almost new. ....plus I got it with a $1100 Baer disc brake kit , drilled and slotted rotors.

you'll **** when you see what I paid.......$1,000.....plus $225 for shipping.
www.lateral-g.net There's always guys with BIG MONEY cars doing upgrades.
you can ****** stuff off their high dollar g-rides Cheap usually.

Olds12BoltDiscBrakes3.jpg

 

That looks just like the rear under my customer's 71 442 convertible.I did the brake lines a lot cleaner,& "IF" you are running lift bars for the lower control arms,you will need to swap calipers to the opposite sides,as the 90* e-brake cable angle will hit the lower arms.I did that at first,but swapped them back,& put regular style tubular adjustable lower arms on it.

 

Why steer clear of Auburns. I had one in my S-10 that I autoX'd and road raced as well as being daily driven. Never once gave me any trouble, and it was nice and tight.

 

The Auburns are a good alternative for a mild build or daily-driven cruiser,but not something you want to throw a bunch of power to.They are not rebuildable,but Auburn does offer an exchange program,should you wear it out.They came in all of the 90's Caprice police cars that I have come across,so they will work on duty.
I prefer a clutch style unit that I can tune,or a Detroit Locker for a street/strip application.

 

I would just buy a complete unit from Brian. Every thing would be set up proper, no noise, no hassles, and just install.

 

Buy it for the occasional usage, or the lifetime usage.
Now remember, opinions are subjective, this is just what I've learned from numerous old timer gear guru's.
Not just old farts fartin around, guys that have rebuilt hundreds of rear ends like Freddie (Big Gear Head)

http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=155813
http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=174010

Most of the guys that we know on the Chevy forums that have been doing rear ends for 20+ years all suggest Eaton or better.
Of course, most of these guys are into performance geared vehicle modifications.

Do you want to drive around with an egg under your gas pedal worried that you might slip up and do a burn out and fry your rear end ???
I don't. They have a reputation of failing from this, and if I am spending the money, I'd buy one that can handle real performance.

I agree with 507Olds in that it's just meant for a cruiser. Not a performance car.
For me, I like the security of spending $150 extra KNOWING it's pretty durable for performance later on if I amp up the HP.

Do it once, and do it right. Thats my philosophy. I'm a performance oriented person though.