Is anybody who can help me dec.my rear axle?Dont even know if its an Olds,couldnt fint any number on the tubes but i found a num.on the right-front side of the carrier

 

That's an 8.2" 10-bolt,which is what came in that car originally.You will either need to find the stamped code,or pull the cover,to find out exactly what ratio you have.The stamped code should be on the passenger side axle tube,between the spring perch & the pumpkin.That general area.

 

just went to the garage and took away all the color-dirt of trhe RH tube to the bare metal nothing?!
except the letters DS upside-down on the backside of the RH axle tube The car was manual before i dont know if that helps+a pic.of the vin nr.

 

That IS the code you need.The "SD" is upside-down because they assembled the chassis upside-down,so the person stamped the tube in that position.
SD = 3:08 posi

 

Ok thanks for the info,im just not that sure about the posi think,it spins only the right tyre when you do a burnout

 

Not sure without actually looking at it.A 3:08 non-posi would have a different code.A lot of things can happen in 40+ years. The posi unit might be worn,or maybe it was blown-up,& an open carrier installed in its place.Not sure.

 

Ok Brian thanks for the info,any idea what ratios fits in those rear ends nr.of splines etc. BTW really sweat ride u have there

 

They make gears for that rear,& there are also some nice used one floating around. There are 3:23,3:36,3:55,3:90,etc.to name a few.
The axles have 28-spline,& the pinion stem has 27-spline.

 

I open it up today and took a look inside the ring has 37 teeth and the pinion 11 teeth and its open,it comes up like 3:36?,did that ratio existed?

 

 

OOOps missed it

 

Does anyone used this? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...=STRK:MEWAX:IT
I was thinking of ordering one,i know that they can sound a little but on the other hand they are easy to install.Any experiences with that thing?

 

The NO SLIP unit you linked to is great for LIGHT to LIGHT action and drag racing etc. For road driving in the hills and light wet surfaces they can become very treacherous...

The LSD (Auburn or Eaton) diff units are smoother transitions in the turns and more predictable in uncommon surfaces as water ice snow gravel etc. Plus still very good on the dry paved surfaces of course.


Jim

 

The Auburn unit should be fine for what you are doing,not to mention about $100.00 cheaper than that part you listed.Those units can be had for less money as well.
The Eatons are a bit more than the Auburns,but they are a nice unit,with clutches,& are rebuildable.