Need pics of Olds "O" axle
#1
Need pics of Olds "O" axle
Just want to see a Olds O axle that was in the 67-70 cars out of the car.
EDIT: Never mind , found one, can't delete thread so I'll just post it.
http://forums.aaca.org/f137/olds-12-...si-213364.html
EDIT: Never mind , found one, can't delete thread so I'll just post it.
http://forums.aaca.org/f137/olds-12-...si-213364.html
![](http://forums.aaca.org/attachments/f137/7385d1181336203-olds-12-bolt-type-o-posi-370124-p1160663.jpg)
Last edited by Aceshigh; January 18th, 2010 at 05:53 PM.
#4
I was trying to see if it had the same upper control arm
connections and spring perches as a Chevy 12 bolt.
Which it does.....
What I'm trying to find out is when I switch my rear end, what should I replace in terms of bushings,
leaf spring bushings, or anything else. I found some aftermarket reasonably priced Upper Control Arms
on Ebay to replace the stock ones that will most likely be beat to crap.
Just looking for tips on what else I need to replace.
Adjustable UCA's $156
![](http://i378.photobucket.com/albums/oo227/mykdogg14/DSCN0064.jpg)
Non-Adjustable UCA's $115
connections and spring perches as a Chevy 12 bolt.
Which it does.....
What I'm trying to find out is when I switch my rear end, what should I replace in terms of bushings,
leaf spring bushings, or anything else. I found some aftermarket reasonably priced Upper Control Arms
on Ebay to replace the stock ones that will most likely be beat to crap.
Just looking for tips on what else I need to replace.
Adjustable UCA's $156
![](http://i378.photobucket.com/albums/oo227/mykdogg14/DSCN0064.jpg)
Non-Adjustable UCA's $115
![](http://www.bmrfabrication.com/Ebay/images/Control_Arms/UTCA004H.jpg)
#5
All of the 68-72 A-body axles have the same mounting points be it an 8.2, 8.5C, 8.5P, O-axle or a 12 bolt chevy. So all of the aftermarket control arms will work the same with any of the axles. You just need to have the correct length driveshaft and u-joints for your axle/transmission combo.
#7
That design will bind if not used with the spherical bushings in the rear housing like what Wolfe sells. The problem is Wolfes are really for a drag setup not intended for lots of street use. The factory design does not have a problem with binding because the factory arms flex and the rubber bushings give. When you make solid arms and much more stiff bushings you get bind.
The best alternative I have found is the Currie Trac arms. They use Johnny Joints that give you the the full articulation without any bind.
![](http://www.scandc.com/images/Currectrac%20Adj.%20UCAs.jpg)
The best alternative I have found is the Currie Trac arms. They use Johnny Joints that give you the the full articulation without any bind.
![](http://www.scandc.com/images/Currectrac%20Adj.%20UCAs.jpg)
I was trying to see if it had the same upper control arm
connections and spring perches as a Chevy 12 bolt.
Which it does.....
What I'm trying to find out is when I switch my rear end, what should I replace in terms of bushings,
leaf spring bushings, or anything else. I found some aftermarket reasonably priced Upper Control Arms
on Ebay to replace the stock ones that will most likely be beat to crap.
Just looking for tips on what else I need to replace.
Adjustable UCA's $156
![](http://i378.photobucket.com/albums/oo227/mykdogg14/DSCN0064.jpg)
Non-Adjustable UCA's $115
![](http://www.bmrfabrication.com/Ebay/images/Control_Arms/UTCA004H.jpg)
connections and spring perches as a Chevy 12 bolt.
Which it does.....
What I'm trying to find out is when I switch my rear end, what should I replace in terms of bushings,
leaf spring bushings, or anything else. I found some aftermarket reasonably priced Upper Control Arms
on Ebay to replace the stock ones that will most likely be beat to crap.
Just looking for tips on what else I need to replace.
Adjustable UCA's $156
![](http://i378.photobucket.com/albums/oo227/mykdogg14/DSCN0064.jpg)
Non-Adjustable UCA's $115
![](http://www.bmrfabrication.com/Ebay/images/Control_Arms/UTCA004H.jpg)
#8
You answered my question about the hard one's though......
Definitely don't want those then. THanks.
It looks to me like the one's I posted are definitely rubber.....hence the greasable fittings.
I will have to ask the sellers.
Only problem I see is the FORK side has no bolts or bushings for the body mount part......
That part I'm still trying to find the parts for ......no idea yet.
Definitely don't want those then. THanks.
It looks to me like the one's I posted are definitely rubber.....hence the greasable fittings.
I will have to ask the sellers.
Only problem I see is the FORK side has no bolts or bushings for the body mount part......
That part I'm still trying to find the parts for ......no idea yet.
That design will bind if not used with the spherical bushings in the rear housing like what Wolfe sells. The problem is Wolfes are really for a drag setup not intended for lots of street use. The factory design does not have a problem with binding because the factory arms flex and the rubber bushings give. When you make solid arms and much more stiff bushings you get bind.
The best alternative I have found is the Currie Trac arms. They use Johnny Joints that give you the the full articulation without any bind.
The best alternative I have found is the Currie Trac arms. They use Johnny Joints that give you the the full articulation without any bind.
Last edited by Aceshigh; January 19th, 2010 at 01:49 PM.
#9
You answered my question about the hard one's though......
Definitely don't want those then. THanks.
It looks to me like the one's I posted are definitely rubber.....hence the greasable fittings.
I will have to ask the sellers.
BMR uses urethane bushings much harder than rubber.
Only problem I see is the FORK side has no bolts or bushings for the body mount part......
That part I'm still trying to find the parts for ......no idea yet.
I got my urethane housing ear bushings from SC&C...the same place I ordered the arms from.
Definitely don't want those then. THanks.
It looks to me like the one's I posted are definitely rubber.....hence the greasable fittings.
I will have to ask the sellers.
BMR uses urethane bushings much harder than rubber.
Only problem I see is the FORK side has no bolts or bushings for the body mount part......
That part I'm still trying to find the parts for ......no idea yet.
I got my urethane housing ear bushings from SC&C...the same place I ordered the arms from.
#10
I got my urethane housing ear bushings from SC&C...the same place I ordered the arms from.
They're not cheap. I priced out the rear UCA's for the 442 and $320 is more
then I'm willing to part with for this part.
Trying to stay cheap but over stock quality.
These are my SC&C UCA's for the 78 Camaro. Very nice stuff.
But this is going to be a Autocross car, VS the 442 just a street cruiser with some ***** off the line.
![](http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f122/Aceshigh22/LS1%20Implant/LCAprojectdoneMedium.jpg)
#12
Interesting Monzaz.....
They look like the same one's from UMI Performance Brad posted a yesterday
on TeamChevelle. I wonder what he charges and is he a company or out of his house??
They also have the Poly bushings for $39 too.
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...roducts_id=269
They look like the same one's from UMI Performance Brad posted a yesterday
on TeamChevelle. I wonder what he charges and is he a company or out of his house??
They also have the Poly bushings for $39 too.
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...roducts_id=269
![](http://www.umiperformance.com/catalog/images/large/3017a_LRG.jpg)
Last edited by Aceshigh; January 20th, 2010 at 08:02 PM.
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