Hello, is there anyway besides replacing axles to fix the worn spots where axle meets the seal? I've replaced both seals but both still leak. I do not feel any grooves but i see 2 lines that are shiny on the axle.

 

There are axle saver seals out there. These seals have a wider margin and put the sealing surface on a different position relative to stock seals. Some of the other members here probably have info on brands or sources.

 

I suggest checking the bearings for wear.

The issue I had with a 68 O-Type was the bearing inner race spun on the axle shaft, which made a groove in the shaft under the race. This caused the axle shaft to move offset a slight amount and the seal was no longer in tight contact with the entire circumference of the shaft, allowing oil to leak past. I had to get another set of early style (67-69) axle shafts from Brian Trick to fix it.

As for an offset seal, I haven't heard of those for the early O-Types but that doesn't mean they don't exist, just that I haven't heard of them even during the many years I spent working at auto parts stores in the 80s.

The factory oil seal presses into the end of the axle shaft, so you could conceivably very carefully remove some material from the inner end of the metal shell so the seal sits a bit further into the end of the housing and therefore rides on a different part of the axle shaft. If there isn't a noticeable groove in the shaft this may not be the cause of the leak, though.

I would check the bearings for any movement in relation of the axle shaft to verify everything 's OK there.

 

Thank you for the replies. I have brand new bearings on there and new seals. The whole rear end was redone. Can I get some shims to move the seals out a 1/16 or 1/8, or would it be better to remove some of the seal surface to allow it to move further in? Does anyone know where to get these axle savers from? Thank you for the help.

 

After I posted I thought adding a spacer might be simpler. Anything that moves the lip of the seal to a different spot on the shaft should work.

 

Thank you, I will give that a shot.

 

just dont drive the seal as deep as it will go. i think they make large thin electrical washers that might work as spacer?

 

What rear end is this? What kind of axles Bolt in or c-clip?

Then we can all be on the same page.

Jim
J D Race

 

I believe it to be the O type, they are bolt on.

 

Speedy sleeve it. Clean the axle seal surface. Polish with fine emery paper. Spray brake cleaner to remove all oily residue. Apply properly well mixed JB Weld, thinly, with a fresh utility knife blade. Wipe the JB parallel around the axle circumference just filling in the low spot. Let it set up hard. Emery it down level with the good surface. Tap speedy sleeve on. The JB prevents the speedy from transferring the low spot to the sleeve. Done this a thousand times with great success and durability. The other suggestions will work too. This is the way I like to do it.
Of course, you need the lock ring and bearing out of the way to do this.

BDI, (Bearing Distributos Inc) will have the proper range sleeve. They will also have a choice of seals, HD and regular. Go with HD. Always wipe/pack grease (or vaseline in a trans) on the back side of a seal to help retain the lip seal spring if so equipped.

And of course, always ask for USA parts as they will try to sell the chineasium first because they think everyone wants a 2 dollar cheaper bearing

http://www.bdi-usa.com/Locations.aspx

 

The seal # you need is 8594 S , it fits the o-axle with the seal in the housing . You may have the big body Olds seal which has a bigger axle and will not be tight enough on your Cutlass - 442 axle .BOB

 

Did that exactly with JB Weld and speedy sleeve on the type "O" in the 67. Worked great. No leaks in 8000 miles and 3 years. I should drive it more.