Finally car started, but the belt squeals like no other. I took a look and the fan clutch is not spinning, and the belt is smoking at the water pump. I am thinking either its seized, or the pulley is? There is no belt on the a/c, so could that be the problem? alternator and the a/c pulley spins freely, but trying to spin the pulleys on the water pump I can not. Is there a way to get the pulley free?

 

The pulley is bolted to the flange on the water pump shaft. If the pulley doesn't spin, then the water pump shaft is not spinning, either.

 

Is there a way to break the pulley free or will I have to replace it?

 

There should be 4 threaded studs with nuts holding the pulley to the water pump. Remove those and the pulley comes off the pump flange.

If you are asking if there is a way to leave the pulley in place and not have it drive the water pump while the engine is running, the answer is no. If the water pump shaft is frozen/jammed you would have to remove the belt in order to run the engine.

 

No I do not want to run the engine without the water pump. I just didnt know if I have to undo the bolts and try to loosen the pulley that way, or if tapping on it would possibly break it free.

 

just put another pump on it.
beware the three different lenghts
x2 different inlet nipple sizes.
Is there a large csting ID on the RH outlet boss such as "4" or a circle or dot?

 

I am not sure but I will look. I will put a new one one. Will I have to buy new pulleys or will the old be reused? Or does a new water pump come with new pulleys?

 

If it has seized it means the rear seal has probably failed and rusted the bearing tight or the bearing has collapsed altogether, either way it needs to be repaired or replaced.
The pulleys just unbolt from the front of the pump when you undo the four fan bolts , and transfer them to the new pump.
Scott

 

Depending on what the smoking belt has done to the pulley. Migh be ok with a cleanup. Replace the belt obviously.


This leads me to believe you may not have the tools and skill set to replace a water pump without a bit of guidance.

At the very least, take the old pump to the store and compare crucial fitment features as I set forth above. You may wish to not turn in the old WP as a $5 core, if it is a rare casting such as "X" - worth much more as a rebuilt or core to rebuild. But if it is the ubiquitous "4" casting or generic Taiwan casting, fine turn it in as a core at the store.

 

Just never changed a water pump. Shouldn't be too bad. I think I can get it.

 

If you are inexperienced, don't turn the core in until the new water pump has been proven to fit and work.
It is easy for two different pumps to appear superficially identical, but be different, because you haven't yet learned what to look for.

By the way, I had this happen on my Chevelle when I was a kid - I had used a bit too little antifreeze, it was a cold night, and the engine froze. I got in, started the car, and was instantly greeted by a terrifying screaming sound and smoke from under the hood.
I pulled the fan belt and found the water pump pulley to be frozen solid, so I went inside, boiled a pot of water, poured it over the water pump, started the car, and drove off.
It took about five miles before the heat came on, as opposed to the usual one mile, because the ice inside the engine had to melt before the water could circulate, but other than that, there were no repercussions, and I drove that car for many years afterward.

- Eric

 

You may want to consider changing the timing chain while you have the pump off. GM engines of that era used a nylon toothed timing sprocket. The nylon wears and in time the chain will jump a tooth. Since you already have to change the pump, you are well on the way to having all the parts removed to change the chain. If it has never been changed and unless the car is low mile, it is only a matter of time before the sprocket fails.

From the discussion above, it doesn't appear as if you have the experience to do this without help. Do you have someone local who can assist you?

 

How about your start by telling us the year, model, and engine?

ASSuming this is an Olds V8, the first thing you need to do is remove the belts and try to turn the water pump by hand. That will isolate the problem. While not impossible, I've never seen a seized water pump. The more common failure mode is the bearings go bad, which chews up the seal and causes a large coolant puddle under the car.

If you are changing the pump, you'll need to remove all the accessory brackets on the front of the motor, as all of them bolt to the water pump one way or another. Pay very close attention to the spacers between the power steering pump brackets and the motor. If you don't get them back in the right places you'll be asking us why your belts don't line up.

Also, see this post about how to properly adjust the PS pump belt, which is usually done wrong and leads to complaints about belt squeal.

 

If you can get somebody to be there to help that would be best.

Agreed that step one is to remove all the belts and verify that the WP itself can't be turned by hand with nothing connected to it. Take photos and/or make your own diagram of where spacer and studded bolts go.

Generally, you are mitaswelled into the timing chain also but I am hearing a level of expertise that says "no" at this time on that project.

 

From his original post, the car is a 68 Cutlass AC car with the original 350. https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...w-cutlass.html

 

OK. Typically if one is asking for help, you'll get a better answer if the people trying to help you don't have to waste time looking up other threads to get all the info.

Just sayin'

 

finding one online and probably have a rebuilt generic in the garage. Watch for a text.

 

Water pump replacement is very basic, no need to be scared but you should always make it a habit of noting where things come off. I like to lay them out on the floor where in an order or pattern that represents how they came off just in case I forget. Make sure you drain the coolant out before you start taking the pump off. Should be a petcock on the bottom of the radiator. As soon as it's done draining make sure you close it before moving on. If replacing a water pump, it's a great time to replace hoses and thermostat. Replacing coolant is basically a no brainer. I'd use a 50/50 mix which you can buy right at the auto parts store. Do not use silicone around the water pump. Use the correct gasket. Too many times I have found silicone in the cooling system. This will clog up the radiator, pump, water jackets etc. Lastly, always tighten bolts in steps, in a pattern so the gasket seats evenly otherwise you may have a leak. Check back in if you need help

 

A little late now, but, I would add that removing the BLOCK drain plugs and draining the block itself is also good, to help keep coolant out of the oil pan. I would drain the oil and leave the plug out while changing the WP to ensure that any coolant that does get in can get right out. Coolant + main bearings = poor results

sealer not req'd on the bolts. Anti-seize is advised. Permatex 3H gasket sealer. Very light torque on the smaller bolts into the cover.

 

I have seen a seized water pump Joe, on a British Austin Maxi! , X2 on carefully noting where the various bolts and spacers come from, maybe take some pictures before starting the job?.

Roger.