Hey guys,

I recently purchased a project 65 Cutlass with a 455 V8 and I was wondering if someone can help a rookie out with some mechanical help.

- The car was missing a starter so I recently bought one and just installed it but the shaft/gear inside the starter is not making contact with the teeth on the flywheel, is this normal or did I forget to take something out?

- I noticed there are three cables for the starter, One big black one and two skinny ones...which one wire goes where? Two on the solenoid and one on the starter?

- Last question for now..The car has not been started for about 7-9 years and I am aware I should replace all my fluids and gas but I really dont want to do that until I know the engine is not blown. Can I just start it up to make sure everything is good before replacing the fluids and if so should I worry about the engine freezing up since it hasnt been started for the longest?

Sorry the the silly questions but I am not a mechcanic and never took shop class but I learn very easy when it comes to hands on.

Thanks in advance..

 

Before you start it I would pull the plugs and put some Marvel Mystry oil in all the clys and let it set for a day of so. After it sits see if if turns over by hand pretty easy but still with some resistance. Turn it over a few times to help coat the rings and clys. You also need to either clean out the tank or run a hose to a gas can temporarly. Drain and fill with new oil. I would not worry about new coolant at this point because you will more than likley need to replace the water pump. The seal tend to dry out and leak after sitting so long. Put the plugs back in and see if it will fire. Watch the carb for major leaks too. Good luck

 

Thanks for that info, very useful.
How much Marvel Mystery Oil should I use, 16oz, 32oz or the 1 gallon? And you mentioned " You also need to either clean out the tank or run a hose to a gas can temporarly". Are you talking about the gas in the tank or the oil pan?
Should I use 10/40 motor oil or 20/50?

Thanks again:-)

 

Just a few squirts with an oil can will be fine. The gas in the tank is probably varnish so that the reason for useing a separate gas source until you clean the tank. What ever oil you have laying around 10-30,10-40 will be fine.

 

Thanks again,

I went ahead and removed all my spark plugs and poured some of that marvel mystery oil you mentioned in each cylinder along with a lil wd-40, so I guess the wait begins. I tried using a breaker bar to turn the crank shaft (big bolt that sits below fan) bolt clock wise to see if the engine has siezed and it did not move at all, wvwn with all mt body weight trying to force it. I just hope I was turning the right one.

Do you know where I can find the engine manual for this car? Its obvious this is not the original motor that came with the car. There is a stamp number next by the water pump that reads 396021F and by the spark I see the letter J.
From what I googled people say its a 69-72 455.... But from what car or how do I find this info?

Thanks again..

 

There is no separate engine manual. All the engine info is in Chapter 6 of the appropriate Chassis Service Manual. Your block casting number could be any 1968-72 455. The 1973-76 455s would have been 396021FA. Look to see if there isn't a small letter A next to the F. The J heads were 1973-76 smog heads with small ports, which is why I say look for the small "A" on the block casting number. Also, check the VIN derivative stamp on the driver's side of the block below the no. 1 spark plug. The second character will tell you the actual year of the block.

 

If you were using all you weight and it was not turning that does not sound good at all. Might as well plan on a rebuild.

 

I know the motor is painted red and next to the cylinders it reads 411 783 J and this is the info I found from 442.com about this motor but it doesnt tell me what car it came from:

ID/ Use Casting
Code Year(s) CID CCs Number Notes

J '73-76' 455 80, 82 411783 All 445's. 'Smog heads',
restrictive exhaust valve pockets.
No big valve units.


As for that crank shaft not turning with the breaker bar, I am just hoping the majestic magic oil and wd-40 with help lube the internal parts. If not then I guess I have to pull the motor out and I dont know crap about rebuilding the motor and dont have all the proper tools but this is my project so I guess I have to find some way of learning and thanks for these forums....

 

Gearheads is right about your motor. I was fortunate that my 64 330 fired after setting since 84! It 's quiet as a "church Mouse". yes if you had a breaker bar on the-front snout bolt-and will not turn, time to go to plan B.