Suggestions for a better and brighter headlamp to replace the original type lamps. I need to replace my worn out headlamps and would like to go with a newer type. If anyone has tried a newer type your suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

 

What kind of bulbs do you have now?
In all of my older cars, the Wagner or Sylvania halogens work great.
They are the cheapest and most efficient way to upgrade from the standard sealed beam types. Available at Napa and other local stores.

 

You've got a 2-light system, so you're pretty much limited to halogen sealed beams or aftermarket H4 systems.

Others may have more experience, but I would avoid non-brand-name systems, as their quality and optical design can be crappy. The brand-name stuff is always expensive.

- Eric

 

Thank you Lady72nRob71 and MDchanic for your information.

 

I saw some LED lights for a 2 lite setup. Forgot where though.

 

I have seen the single headlight that takes the halogen replacement bulbs on LMC truck site. I would think the headlights are the same , not sure if you wanted the halogen type bulbs hope this helps

 

Aircraft landing lights!

 

I picked up the halogen replacements for my '65 but did not replace them yet as I was under the impression that I would need to use a relay set up so I got a full 12 volts to the lights. I read that the factory wiring runs through the switch and causes a measureable voltage drop resulting in the halogens not to be as bright as they should. Should that be a consideration here?

 

Where did you get this "impression?"

I've never heard of this. You could easily confirm the voltage present at the headlights with a voltmeter, and I have to believe it's 12 volts. Just unplug the connector at the headlight and put a voltmeter between the hot lead and ground.

I've put halogen lights on my '60s and '70s cars without any problems.

 

As long as the wattages are not substantially different, they will be fine.
The regular halogen sealed beams have worked fine in all of my old cars with no mods. When you start getting into higher wattages over 55-60, relays might be needed.

 

The factory wiring always causes a voltage drop to the headlights, and in an older car, that has developed some corrosion here and there, it will cause more.

This will cause any headlights to dim, not just halogens, but usually not a noticeable amount.

The important reason for using relays with replaceable-bulb halogen headlights is that many people use higher-wattage bulbs than stock (like 130W ), and with those, you'll see a big difference in output with the relays.

- Eric

 

These will flash on and off without relays, as the circuit breaker will be tripping and resetting.

 

Quite so, though I will admit I never tried them without the relays.

- Eric

 

To check the operating voltage at a headlight you have to have the headlight connected and you have to measure at the tangs on the bulb. If you have a voltage drop in the system it will not show up until the system is loaded with the headlight in the circuit.

 

I'm doing this conversion soon and have finished the homework.

Basically, the voltage drop metered at the lamp sockets (to ground) may be substantially low with your ol-timey system. This occurs due to poor connections, the dash switch and the total length of small (#12-14) wire. That is resistance, you need to remove the resistance to run modern Halogen lamps in their designed efficiency requirements. They need lots-o-power to make their max output. The factory wire may even get warm attempting to supply these babies? If you consider a proper Halogen upgrade read on. For a pay-off project you need the relay and the right lamps.

The relay coil will pull in it's rated 30-40 amp contacts from your existing headlamp switch circuit. The relay input will be a heavy (#10) wire ran through an in-line, 30A fuse. It is connected directly to the battery with a short, 1' wire length. Battery cable terminals often include a heavy positive auxiliary wire supplied non-terminated you can attach to. The relay output is ran as new (#12-10) wiring to the Halogen bulb sockets. This run is under 4' max from the relay as the relay should mount near the battery. Okay, so heavy conductors, short wire runs and no dash switch adding resistance to our circuit. Good.

We're talking REAL H1-H4 halogens here with H1-H4 lamp sockets not "halogen" sealed beams. Decent glass lamp housing run $35-$50 each and there several brands out there. Some ship with sockets and a questionable bulb. The lamp should have true H1-H4 bulbs NOT HID (junk) bulbs that only work with proper projector style lamps. These require a ballast kit and will FAIL to operate in a reflector housing as their light scatters randomly without a projector lens. So, try the free Halogen bulbs but remember, you can always upgrade them to a branded favorite. Get white bulbs the tinted ones that simulate HID blue color are junk and actually reduce night vision.

That's it. A proper rated circuit powering real 50W Halo's now producing more output with much whiter light. Cool. Your headlamps appear factory but bright not yellowish. As a bonus, your dim yellow dash lights often perk up noticeably brighter from the voltage gain in the circuit no longer running the ol' headlamps. You basically made a quantum leap in lighting tech. Skimping on the relay would be a mistake. The Halo's need to get the juice to burn right and bright. The cost of the total project is surprisingly cheap.

 

60's and 70's Ford products are notorius for headlight circuit issues. I did the relay set-up on my Cougar and it made a world of difference even on it's non-halogen bulbs.
My relay set-up was a pre-made kit that I picked up a Summit.
I don't see the exact kit I used, but here are a few they offer.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/upd-34264/overview/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cei-102064/overview/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hl...1801/overview/

 

That sounds like the way to go White Knuckles thank you for sharing your research and knowledge I really appreciate your help.

 

Glad to share this as the project isn't that spendy for modern lighting benefits.

Make sure you understand what can occur with depth clearance with the replacement lamp (bulb socket inserted). Hella publishes the specifications. Look at the metal work behind the lamps, will you be able to remove the bulb or have to pull the headlight to service it? They make these in a profile to fit this upgrade idea but too deep can be a bummer. OPGI sells nylon beam adjusters that often break. (ask me how I know).

The circuit is more complicated with high-low beam considerations. I have a 4-lamp setup where additional lamps and a relay fired from the dimmer switch output may eventually be added. Thing is, I run low beam pretty much all the time where the brighter/whiter light is needed.

Halogen bulbs are a deceptive topic and clearly misrepresented. Use these tips for your modern rides, it's all about seeing. You'd think major brands like Sylvania "Night-Eyes" are killer, branded lamps? Wrong, they're junk compared to what's out there. Typical Auto-Store stock is limited and has marketing hype packaging to trick you. Most are under powered, poorly made and have short lives.

So, no off-brands or blue colored Chinese Halos. Look for your local off-road supplier or the IntraWeb. H1-H4 sockets accept higher wattage bulbs that can be legally ran. DOT limits street bulbs to 50 watts. Off-roaders buy 65 watt bulbs for their light bar setups. Hmmm, can these be ran on the street? Yes, there are no bulb police that can spot the additional output when you adjust your beams properly. Your beefed up wiring can handle the additional load with ease. Check out Osram (Sylvania but European) and Piaa bulbs. Even the lower 50w version of these bulbs are a better bang for the buck giving better performance and life compared to most retail choices.