jaunty75

What year is the Accord? And why don't you consider it to be safe?

jaunty75

Don't be sticking your head in the sand now. You want to get the Cutlass, get the Cutlass. But even a 20 year old Accord is far safer than a '70 Cutlass. A 1994 Accord will have dual airbags, side-impact reinforcement beams, 4-wheel disk brakes, anti-lock brakes, and rear stabilizer bar, just for starters.

1970cs

Looking at the pictures and given that I see palm trees in the GP pic. It looks solid as can be. But again look it over for frame damage and rust issues, also looking at the pic on the lift those back tires look pretty bald.

The interior will need some attention but does not look to bad.

But for 6K for decent paint, chrome and most panels above the belt line look good, but inspect the lower fenders and quarters. Joe P. places to look for rust are spot on. Your call but looks good to me!

Pat

oldcutlass

Perhaps the best approach for you is to crush your car and buy a Prius, Jaunty. For your own safety, we wouldn't want anything to happen to you.


The reason I suggest that scenario is because you don't want to sell it to anyone else knowing what a deathtrap it is or perpetuate it's attack on society.

jeffwpayne

Hahaha that's too funny.

jeffwpayne

97 I just feel they don't provide much protection. It's a Honda, lightweight, small sedan. It will be alright for now.

jeffwpayne

Haha you guys are too funny.

jeffwpayne

Ok fellas. What's a good website for parts, interior, exterior. Engine gauges ect. Also the owner said it has brand new tires. Just not in the pics. First thing I will buy is a break pedal rubber...

jaunty75

I think a better approach is to be smart about the car you choose as a hobby car and about the car you choose for your family. They're two different things.

1970cs

Parts suppliers: your local auto parts store i.e. NAPA, carquest
Fusick and Year One. (restoration parts)
Most are others are touch and go on quality and customer service.
Stay away from Brothers!

Pat

jaunty75

Weight is an issue, but it's not the only one and not the most important one. One look at the video of the crash between the '59 and '09 Chevys is enough to see that. The '59 certainly outweighs the '09, probably by quite a bit, but it's where that weight is and what it's used for that matters.

Certainly a '70 Cutlass is safer than a '59 Chevy. But the '97 Honda is much safer than the '70 Cutlass, and it's what the kids should be riding around in as their regular transportation.

It's all about time of exposure. That's what accident statistics, fatal accident rates, things like that, are base on. People say things like "should I not take my grandchildren out for ice cream in my '67 convertible?" The answer is, yes you should. They're in the convertible for a short time, relatively speaking. They're not riding in it every day or nearly every day to school or the doctor or to the store or to the playground. So the chances of them being in the convertible if it were to be in an accident are very small, and the risk is worth taking. But the chances of them being in an accident are higher for a car they're in more often, and that's the car you want to be as safe as possible.

jeffwpayne

I agree 100% great advise

jaunty75

As far as parts suppliers, I've had good luck over the years at Autozone as a local parts store, and a good online supplier is rockauto.com. It's worth checking several sources for most any part as prices can vary, as can shipping costs, whether or not you have to pay tax, and that sort of thing.

Fusick is a long-time Oldsmobile hobby supplier with an excellent reputation. They have good stuff, sometimes stuff no one else has, but they can be pricey, so it's worth checking around. Plus, they have a very annoying "minimum $25 purchase" policy. That's no problem if you need some big-ticket stuff. But if you need a $9 something-or-other to finish a job, it's annoying to have to find another $16 worth of stuff just to get what you need. No other vendor I know of has a policy like this.

jeffwpayne

Awesome, I just browsed the fusick site and I'm pretty happy with what I see, lots of parts iv been looking for at a good price, what's a good replacement radiator I can find? as that's one of the first things ill do when I get extra money. Maybe I should just start searching the forum before I ask questions, lol

sammy

I was worried about parts also when I bought my 70 Cutlass, but between CO members, Auto flea markets and places like Year One etc., my mind was quickly put at ease
If that car is in good condition, the price is very reasonable ...

jeffwpayne

Thank you, the more I look at this forum the more I'm loving it, also I'm finding quite a bit resources for parts and are cheaper than I would have thought. Cost to maintain, repair the cutlass is going to be cheaper than replacing parts on the ranger. Plus easier to work on which is a plus. G have that gut feeling that something isn't right though. Guess will see tomorrow..

jeffwpayne

Just to let you guys know I will be looking at the car around 12 noon Florida time, 1/20/14 lol I will post any questions here if any of you are available to answer them, thanks for all the advice and information to all of you You guys are great.

1970cs

Jeff, I should be hanging around the key board then, only unless there is a customer in front of me at that time or doing a trade appraisal.

I own a 70 Supreme hardtop so ask away, hence my handle on this and other forums!


Pat

jeffwpayne

Lol thank you very much. I think an investment in a computer and internet are going to be made also. I hate using my phone for this stuff its always messing up when I type and keeps me from making proper replies. Thanks again

jeffwpayne

Also how hard is it to inspect the body mounts

oldsman72

I think you mean 1/21.....TODAY is 1/20 silly. Good luck!


My 2 cents....
I would wait on the "old car". I'm not sure what your daily commute is like but it's probably going to cost you a small fortune in gas (I wouldn't try putting regular unleaded in that baby!). You say you expect to be able to get a truck also, as early as next year. I would put that $6k into like a quad-cab or a small SUV (Trailblazer, Explorer, RAV4, CR-V, etc...). Maybe even a big car, like a Crown Vic. See how things shake-up when the baby arrives, wait until the dust settles and then plan for the old car. You are GOING to put more money into that '70 than you anticipate.
That is just me opinion, which I usually reserve....but you asked. Good luck with whatever you decide.

oldsman72

Adding to my post......


Oh, by the way, getting a baby in and out of a 2-door car is a royal pain in the a$$!!


Not sure where in FL you are, but a quick look at Orlando Cl found this 05 Trailblazer...
http://orlando.craigslist.org/cto/4295838200.html

jeffwpayne

Thanks for the reply, I think I would put more money into the trailblazer honestly. There is always something breaking on those things. Edmunds reviews are enough to keep me away from it.

jeffwpayne

Fellas, anything I should look for while I check the vin number? Should the engine be blue or gold? Thanks

oldsman72

Generally
350 = gold
455 = blue
But a can of engine paint is pretty cheap.


Look on shelf behind water pump....
395558 or 381917 = 350
396021 = 455


Decoding a VIN, from 442.com
1965 THROUGH 1971 MODELS

From 1965 to 1967 the Serial Number identification plate was attached to the left front body hinge pillar directly below the upper door hinge. From 1968 to 1971 it was attached to the top of dhe instrument panel on the driver's side and is visible duough the windshield from outside the car.

2nd and 3rd digits - Series - 31 = F85 L6 (1968-71) 31 = Cutlass L6 Hardtop Coupe (1971) 32 = F85 V8 (1968-71) 32 = Cutlass V8 Hardtop Coupe (1971) 33 = F85 V6 or L6 (1965-67) 34 = F85 V8 (1965-67) 34 = Vista Cruiser Wagon (1966-67) 35 = F85 Deluxe V6 or L6 (1965-66) 35 = Cutlass L6 (1967-71) 36 = F85 Deluxe V8 (1965-66) 36 = Cutlass V8 (1967-71) 38 = F85 Deluxe Vista Cruiser (Custom) (1965-66) 38 = F85 Cutlass (1965-66) 38 = Vista Cruiser Custom V8 (1966-67) 38 = Cutlass Supreme V8 (1967) 42 = Cutlass Suprcme V8 (1968-71) 44 = 442 V8 (1968-71) 48 = Custom Vista Cruiser V8 (1968-71)


4th and 5th digits - Body code - 07 = 2d Club coupe 17 = 2d Holiday coupe 27 = 2d Club coupe 35 = 4d Station Wagon 36 = 4d Station Wagon 37 = 2d Holiday coupe 39 = 4d hardtop sedan 55 = 4d Vista Cruiser 56 = 4d Vista Cruiser 57 = 2d hardtop coupe 65 = 4d Vista Cruiser 66 = 4d Vista Cruiser 67 = 2d convertible 69 = 4d sedan 77 = 2d Club coupe 87 = 2d Holiday coupe


6th dlglt - Model year - 5 = 1965 6 = 1966 7 = 1967 8 = 1968 9 = 1969 0 = 1970 1 = 1971


7th digit - Assembly plant - B = Baltimore, MD G = Framingham, MA K = Kansas City, KS M = Lansing, MI R = Arlington, TX Z = Fremont, CA 1 = Oshawa, ON Canada


Last 6 digits - Production number (sequence)

jeffwpayne

Thank you

gearheads78

OK here is my .02 after reading all this. I gather that you are not much of a mechanic yourself and don't have someone really close to to that is or you would not have got rid of the GP for something as simple as am intake gasket that could have been fixed in a few hours.

I am all for old cars and not worried about my kids in them but you are on a limited buget now with a kid on the way its gonna cost you so much more than you think. Doc bills if everything is smooth is going to kill let alone there is a small complication and the baby has to stay a few days. One of my twins had to stay in NICU for a week and my part of that after insurance was $22,000

Old cars need someone that has the money to pay someone to keep them running or the tools and ability to do it themself. It does not sound like you are either. (YET) IMO you need to find a later model small SUV or sedan and save some money up for a project that you can dump a little at a time in. Learn how to work on it and keep it running and drive it on the weekends and to work on occation as you confidence in your ability builds.

jeffwpayne

Actually I'm very mechanically inclined, I have more tools than I need and the gp also needed a tranny. Look up what's involved in replacing that, the car was not worth putting money into. A 1970 anything will be a breeze to work on. Iv done my fair share of engine rebuilds, suspension overhauls ect. Anyway I don't think the deal is going to happen. We agreed on $6k otd now he wants an extra $500 for tax tag transfer title fees. Whatever. I would sell my truck for more but its not right since I told the buyer I would take 6k

jaunty75

This makes no sense. Tax, title fees, and all that are your concern, not his. Yes, you'll likely have to pay sales tax on the car in the state in which you title it if that state has a sales tax. This is something you should be accounting for in your budget when you go to buy a car. You'll have to pay to title and register the car as well. You would have to do this for any car you buy from anyone, and none of this expense falls on the seller.

If this seller is willing to lose the sale over something like this, he is an idiot.

P.S. In having bought and sold cars in several states, I've never come across something called a title "transfer" fee. You just take the old title, which has been signed by the seller over to you as the buyer, to the title office in your state and get a new title made. You'll have to pay a fee. If that's considered a "transfer" fee, fine, but it's still an expense that you pay, not him.

P.P.S. I may have missed this earlier, but if this seller is a dealer and not a private party, then, yes, you would have to pay sales tax to him at the time of the sale. But this means you would then not have to pay sales tax when you register the car as it will have already been paid. You're likely to have to pay sales tax one way or the other. There is no getting around this.

jeffwpayne

I understand the sales tax. He posted the car for $6500 obo (or best offer) so I offered him $6k cash otd he said yes. I would trailer it home and take care of the legal part, switching the tag, registration. Insurance, ect. That's my worries not his. I'm still trying to see if he will work with me so will see.

jaunty75

So my "he's an idiot" comment applies if he quashes the deal after he has already accepted your offer.

jeffwpayne

Yes he's an idiot.. giving me the run around. Everything happens for a reason right. At least now I know I want a classic Olds cutlass for my first muscle car when the time comes.

jeffwpayne

Well he's down to $5300 so it makes it $6k otd. Going.now to check it out. 2hour drive

jeffwpayne

Well that deal fell through. What would you guys say a 71 cutlass w/ 350 rocket all original is worth. Just wondering if the car would be worth buying just for the motor, tranny. Rear end, and any other parts I could salvage from it. The body and frame are extremely rusted out.

jeffwpayne

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oldsman72

If he keeps yanking you around, check out this awesome-ness I found in FL CL....


http://orlando.craigslist.org/cto/4260697372.html


You'd be stylin' in an old Olds with plenty of power, it's "unique" AND you'd have tons of room for your upcoming baby and all of his/her associated necessities....with a few grand in your pocket!! Can you say "Win/Win!!"?

molasses4masses

The problem is that people see other cars selling for 6K and automatically think theirs is worth that much just because it is the same car. In reality a lot of different variables are what make your car worth more or less than Joe Blow down the street with the same car.

jeffwpayne

No no no lol too big too big.. lol

jeffwpayne

I couldn't agree more

jeffwpayne

Also found this lol.


http://fortmyers.craigslist.org/lee/cto/4233294937.html