hinz57

Okay I'm stupid. I've read the discussions on the horn contact with the sport steering wheel and I am still confused. I had a grant wheel with the wire that goes to the contact to activate horn. No brainer. I have purchased the 4 Spoke Steering Wheel. I realize the horn works with the L shaped bracket on the horn contact pushes down onto the canceling cam to activate the horn. What I am confused on is how the spring and eyelet work? Do you put the spring in first with then the eyelet and the retainer? If so do you put the head of the eyelet on top or bottom? Does the L shaped bracket on the contact push against the eyelet and that is what makes the circuit? I assume the eyelet must be on top of the retainer? What's on top the end with the head on it or the other end? Does the spring go in first then the retainer then the eyelet or what. I don't get it, I'm sorry.

2blu442

It's like my buddy who can almost rebuild an automatic transmission in his sleep. I feel stupid, but its just because I haven't done it a hundred times like he has!

Picture time! Check out the series of photos on my photobucket site. If you don't see the answer there get back to me and I'll explain the step that's not clear. I loaded them backwards so the last is the assembled sport wheel, then I disassembled it one piece at a time so the first photo is the blinker actuator with everything else removed. John

http://s90.photobucket.com/albums/k2...embly/?start=0

Allan R

Nice pictorial John.
Something to keep in mind for when I have to install my cruise control stalk. I know what you mean about experience. It was that way for me doing brakes. Now I can do disc and drums and the darn things actually work right without squealing.

hinz57

so from the pictures I can see the spring goes in first followed by the plastic retainer and then the eyelet with the head on top. My instructions say to cut at 3/4 inch. The new one comes 1". Cut what the spring and eyelet, just the eyelet?
What the hell would cutting the eyelet have to do with anything? Is the spring suppose to make contact with the brass ring on the cancelling cam? It seems like pushing the head of the eyelet is suppose to push down on the spring which comes in contact with the brass ring on the cancelling cam creating the complete circuit.

2blu442

OK, my spring is 1 inch, the brass pin is 3/4 inch, and the little black plastic piece I didn't measure

Let me try explaining how it looks to me and if it's still clear as mud I can take some more photos in the morning. The brass pin goes into the short plastic sleeve, then those two go into the spring. That all goes into the hole in the wheel hub to contact the piece under the hub. Then there's a piece that looks like a sandwich with two big washers with a thin spring steel piece in between. This thin spring steel has tabs that come out and the horn button clips onto these tabs. So the big washer on the inside has an "L" bracket that presses down on the pin, sleeve, spring assembly. Once this sandwich is installed by the three screws through the outer big washer onto the hub the big washer with an L bracket doesn't move. Neither does the outter washer with the three screws that attach to the hub. What does move when you press the horn button is the thin spring steel with the clips. The sandwich of two big washers and the spring steel between them is held together with three plastic rivits. The spring steel will flex between those rivits and make contact with the inner big washer that has the L bracket. That's where the electrical connection is made that honks the horn. I've got a working one in the driveway that I just looked at to explain this, but if it's still not clear to you try to describe what doesn't make sense and I'll try again or in the morning snap some more photos. John

hinz57

Okay I wil try this in the morning. The eyelet and the spring both come 1" long. You say yours eyelet is 3/4". Which is why the instructions say to cut the eyelet to that link from 1969 on. I just don't see what the hell cutting the eyelet accomplishes. It still only sits on top of the retainer by about a 1/16" regardless of the length.

2blu442

Unless it bottoms out before the horn ring is fully tightened to the hub. But who knows, maybe the manufacturer is the same one that says that their headers will fit a Cutlass S but not a Supreme!