Help identifying my car
#1
Help identifying my car
Hello, I am about to order emblems & see about getting my car painted but wanted to do some homework first. My car looks like it had trim down the side at one point and don't know if it's supposed to be there or not. It is supposed to be a 72' Cutlass but the vin tag has been replaced at some point and I wanted to make sure what it actually is. Btw can't figure out how to post more than 1 picture. Thanks, Jason
image.jpg
image.jpg
#2
Post a clear photo of the body cowl tag, which is attached to the firewall in the engine compartment on the driver's side. It will have codes on it that will make it possible to determine what you have.
That's assuming the cowl tag isn't missing or hasn't been changed, either. Why was the VIN tag changed?
That's assuming the cowl tag isn't missing or hasn't been changed, either. Why was the VIN tag changed?
#9
Hello, I am about to order emblems & see about getting my car painted but wanted to do some homework first. My car looks like it had trim down the side at one point and don't know if it's supposed to be there or not. It is supposed to be a 72' Cutlass but the vin tag has been replaced at some point and I wanted to make sure what it actually is. Btw can't figure out how to post more than 1 picture. Thanks, Jason
Attachment 96707
Attachment 96707
#11
Decoding it comes up with the following
72 = 1972 model year
3 = Oldsmobile
36 = Cutlass (not Cutlass Supreme - there would be a 42 here instead of a 36 if the car was a Supreme)
87 = hardtop coupe
R = Arlington, Texas assembly plant
21061 = Fisher Body sequence number (not decodable further)
TR 942 = Green vinyl bench seat
A52 = front bench seat
43, 43 = indicates that both lower and upper body color are Pinehurst Green
04A = build date (1st week of April 1972). This is a little unusual in that normally this date code is not right next to something else like it is on your tag, which has "0086" after it. I'm not sure what that means.
If you can tell us what engine is in the car as well as what type of carburetor (2 or 4 bbl), assuming the engine is original, we can tell you pretty much what the VIN of your car would have been.
From what we know now, it would be
3G87?2RXXXXXX
Where 3 = Oldsmobile
G = Cutlass
87 = hardtop coupe
? = engine and carburetion
2 = model year
R = Arlington assembly plant
XXXXXX = production sequence number at the Arlington plant. No way to determine this unless the engine is original as there should be a VIN derivative stamped on it, and the last six digits of that would be the same as the last six digits of your VIN (thus making the car "numbers matching"). So it IS possible to completely reproduce the car's VIN if the engine is original.
Also, even if the engine is not original, I believe the VIN or a VIN derivative is elsewhere on the car, such as on the differential or on the frame somewhere. Others will know for sure.
72 = 1972 model year
3 = Oldsmobile
36 = Cutlass (not Cutlass Supreme - there would be a 42 here instead of a 36 if the car was a Supreme)
87 = hardtop coupe
R = Arlington, Texas assembly plant
21061 = Fisher Body sequence number (not decodable further)
TR 942 = Green vinyl bench seat
A52 = front bench seat
43, 43 = indicates that both lower and upper body color are Pinehurst Green
04A = build date (1st week of April 1972). This is a little unusual in that normally this date code is not right next to something else like it is on your tag, which has "0086" after it. I'm not sure what that means.
If you can tell us what engine is in the car as well as what type of carburetor (2 or 4 bbl), assuming the engine is original, we can tell you pretty much what the VIN of your car would have been.
From what we know now, it would be
3G87?2RXXXXXX
Where 3 = Oldsmobile
G = Cutlass
87 = hardtop coupe
? = engine and carburetion
2 = model year
R = Arlington assembly plant
XXXXXX = production sequence number at the Arlington plant. No way to determine this unless the engine is original as there should be a VIN derivative stamped on it, and the last six digits of that would be the same as the last six digits of your VIN (thus making the car "numbers matching"). So it IS possible to completely reproduce the car's VIN if the engine is original.
Also, even if the engine is not original, I believe the VIN or a VIN derivative is elsewhere on the car, such as on the differential or on the frame somewhere. Others will know for sure.
#12
If the original VIN tag was removed and reinstalled as part of the restoration process, that's perfectly legal under 18 U.S.C. Section 511. If the tag was "replaced" with a different one, well, that's a problem. I would suggest that you refrain from using the words "VIN tag" and "replaced" in the same sentence, especially around the DMV. "Reinstalled" is fine, however.
#14
A 2-bbl carb would mean a 350 engine and VIN code H. It's difficult to read the VIN in that photo, but it does look like it begins 3G87H2R, so that's right for the car. The last six digits are 170017, but apparently those don't mean anything for this car as the VIN tag was changed.
Cutlass S. The second character being a "G" in the VIN tells you that. I should have been more precise in my decoding of the VIN above. If it were a base Cutlass, the second character would would be an F, if it were an F-85, it would be a D, and if it were a Cutlass Supreme, it would be a J.
Below is a page out of the 1972 Olds Dealer Specs Book. Your car is the second one listed (Hardtop Coupe G87 ... $3086.60 base price). Note under "Standard Equipment" in the left-most column that the base engine was the 350 2-bbl, which is what your car has.
Note also that your car could have had option N34, the well known Custom-Sport "Steering Whool".
Cutlass S. The second character being a "G" in the VIN tells you that. I should have been more precise in my decoding of the VIN above. If it were a base Cutlass, the second character would would be an F, if it were an F-85, it would be a D, and if it were a Cutlass Supreme, it would be a J.
Below is a page out of the 1972 Olds Dealer Specs Book. Your car is the second one listed (Hardtop Coupe G87 ... $3086.60 base price). Note under "Standard Equipment" in the left-most column that the base engine was the 350 2-bbl, which is what your car has.
Note also that your car could have had option N34, the well known Custom-Sport "Steering Whool".
Last edited by jaunty75; July 14th, 2014 at 07:52 PM.
#18
There is no title as the vehicle is pre-1979 model year.
#19
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Trim is mostly correct - just missing body side moldings on fender, doors and front quarter panel.
Cutlass and S emblems on fenders (quarters are the rear panels behind the doors) Cutlass on deck lid and Glove box.
Need to work on getting the pictures oriented for better viewing. Sideways is a bit tough at times
#20
It depends on the state. Some states no longer issue titles after the car is x number of years old.
#21
With no title, how does one claim ownership of the car?
What's to stop somebody from stealing a car and claiming it as his?
you may not need a title to transfer ownership, some states allow bill of sale only, but I think all the states issue a title no matter how old the car is.
Shoot, I have a 1929 ford tudor and it has a pink slip.
What's to stop somebody from stealing a car and claiming it as his?
you may not need a title to transfer ownership, some states allow bill of sale only, but I think all the states issue a title no matter how old the car is.
Shoot, I have a 1929 ford tudor and it has a pink slip.
#22
I have no idea how to answer you questions as I don't live in one of those states. Here is a page from AL which indicates a title is required for a car newer than 35 years. http://ador.alabama.gov/motorvehicle....cfm#titlefaq1
With no title, how does one claim ownership of the car?
What's to stop somebody from stealing a car and claiming it as his?
you may not need a title to transfer ownership, some states allow bill of sale only, but I think all the states issue a title no matter how old the car is.
Shoot, I have a 1929 ford tudor and it has a pink slip.
What's to stop somebody from stealing a car and claiming it as his?
you may not need a title to transfer ownership, some states allow bill of sale only, but I think all the states issue a title no matter how old the car is.
Shoot, I have a 1929 ford tudor and it has a pink slip.
#23
Here's the go-to page for this sort of info:
http://www.bipac.net/page.asp?conten...olbox&g=SEMAGA
boiler_81 is correct. Alabama does not require titles on cars 35 years old or older. I could not find anything in the document about how to prove ownership of an older-than-35-years car, but I admit I didn't read the whole thing.
http://www.bipac.net/page.asp?conten...olbox&g=SEMAGA
boiler_81 is correct. Alabama does not require titles on cars 35 years old or older. I could not find anything in the document about how to prove ownership of an older-than-35-years car, but I admit I didn't read the whole thing.
#24
Here's the go-to page for this sort of info:
http://www.bipac.net/page.asp?conten...olbox&g=SEMAGA
boiler_81 is correct. Alabama does not require titles on cars 35 years old or older. I could not find anything in the document about how to prove ownership of an older-than-35-years car, but I admit I didn't read the whole thing.
http://www.bipac.net/page.asp?conten...olbox&g=SEMAGA
boiler_81 is correct. Alabama does not require titles on cars 35 years old or older. I could not find anything in the document about how to prove ownership of an older-than-35-years car, but I admit I didn't read the whole thing.
#25
#26
Wow, let's pour some Decaf No titles exist in Alabama on pre 1979 vehicles. It's not a guess on my part, I am a licensed dealer and a a Designated Agent to process title documents thru the Alabama Dept. of Revenue.
Thank you Allan R for the info!! I will work on getting my pic posting knowledge up to snuff.
Thank you Allan R for the info!! I will work on getting my pic posting knowledge up to snuff.
#28
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
The body side moldings aren't reproduced for the Cutlass S - yet. However you could probably pick some up from some of the guys who part out these cars.
You're in Alabama? Check with Thomas Johnson (Olds442redberet). He's also in Alabama. If he doesn't have them, check with Scott Winn (oldspackrat) or Eric Jensen (jensenracing77) - they're both in Indiana. One of them will probably have what you need. There are likely others on this site who have those parts, so you could always post in the 'Parts Wanted' section of the site.
As far as reproduction parts vendors? I found that Year One is relatively high priced. Here's a link to a thread where we discussed this question before. Note that in some cases you really need to shop around and do some comparison shopping to get the best bang for your buck. Where is the best place to buy "correct" replacement Oldsmobile parts?
You're in Alabama? Check with Thomas Johnson (Olds442redberet). He's also in Alabama. If he doesn't have them, check with Scott Winn (oldspackrat) or Eric Jensen (jensenracing77) - they're both in Indiana. One of them will probably have what you need. There are likely others on this site who have those parts, so you could always post in the 'Parts Wanted' section of the site.
As far as reproduction parts vendors? I found that Year One is relatively high priced. Here's a link to a thread where we discussed this question before. Note that in some cases you really need to shop around and do some comparison shopping to get the best bang for your buck. Where is the best place to buy "correct" replacement Oldsmobile parts?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
rocket hot rod
Small Blocks
1
January 9th, 2007 06:21 PM