Does any one have an idea how to set up after market gauges ( oil, and temp ) using wires and not a presser hose (oil), and copper sensor (temp) ???
I have thought about putting sensors on both the motor and the gauges, then running the wire between them. Would this work?
Also, does anyone know about the 72' W40 - Supreme Options?

 

You have 'mechanical" gauges. Take them back and get electrical versions.

Don

 

dont know about any of that, however why wouldnt you want mechanical gauges ? they are more accurate, and really not that hard to install. good luck though

 

He's right! I have a cheap set on a 67. Just make sure you have a rubber grommet where the plastic oil tubing and copper line go through the firewall. Or tape a piece of hose over them in that area.

Don

 

After it gets warm, plastic tubing doesn't hold up to hydraulic pressure very well. Copper line tends to fail, due to "work hardening".

I use steel brake line.

Norm

 

Darn, Norm's right too. The cheap set I put on the 67 are only temporary to keep an eye on a used motor. Guess I should think about doing something with the plastic tubing on the oil line. The copper line I referred to is on the Water Temp. gauge and I think it's called a capillary tube??? Sealed on both ends, gauge & sensor. So I don't think I can do anything about that. But I think (again) if it fails the gauge just quits working, no coolant leak to worry about.

Don

 

The 455 has had complete redo, I was looking to putting wires for the clean look. The Mallory gauges I have are 15-18 yrs old so the plastic hose is looking bad on the oil, and the Temp copper wire is showing were the proactive coating is coming off. I also was hopping to run the wires through the fuse box. I got a nice rubber boot for that hole in the firewall from the hardware store just in case I have to use it again. Thanks for the feedback.

 

Do what I did and run inside a rubber hose! I ran both the temp and oil pressure through the same hose made for a very neat look under the hood!

 

I got the cheap $45 set up. I found Teflon tape works better then thread compound (hopefully that will help some one out) on the Temp gage. The oil is fine running through a rubber grommet at the firewall with the Temperature line.
I put an extra wire to the alternator when I redid the wiring harness so it is all the way to the dash. Now the new question. Does anyone see a probable with the Amp meter going directly to the alternator on one side, and body ground on the other? I have used the hot ignition post on the fuse box for the Tach. Thanks.

 

That configuration for ammeter wiring is a recipe for disaster.
Only a voltmeter should be wired from hot to ground. An ammeter would be in-line of the alt. hot wire.
A wiring diagram will be helpful if you have one!

BTW, that 455 looks nice! I like the new "upper radiator support brackets"!

 

Aw, you didn't have to take those fenders off just to take pictures for little ol' us now! Nice looking engine. I second the warning on the ammeter. It should be in series with the load, usually the B+ line. That means wiring from positive on the battery, to one side of the ammeter, from the other side of the ammeter, to where the positive cable on the battery would have went (alternator for instance). This means you have TWO wires of same gauge passing through the firewall to the meter. Unless you have the meter in the engine compartment.

 

Some where along the way I have had a serous brain fart. I had an Amp meter before (that never worked), now the three gage set up came with a Volt meter. I have put the + side to a hot (with the key on) male prong at the fuse box, and the other side to a good new ground on the body. And it moved a little when the key is on, and motor starts just fine. But Volt gage does not move anywhere sits at the low end with motor running. I checked the all three the male prongs on fuse box, they all had 2.v, and Tach is to one of them and it is working fine. Battery has 12.88 sitting with motor off.

2V is not a typo, I will try to recheck everything tonight, if the mesquites do not carry my off. I checked all fuses and there all there.

 

Okay, it sounds like you are wiring it properly for a voltmeter.
2.V is way low - should be 12V or more. Was this a typo?
If yes, then try a different ground spot. Is your body still grounded after having removed so much sheetmetal from the car???

On a related note, some "hot" prongs on the fuse block may be lacking a fuse if they were never used before.

 

Rob, you are a genius! It is all working now. I ran a ground from motor to firewall.
"Nothing is a easy as it seams, and all ways harder then it needs to be."
"It is all ways in the last place I look."

 

Often important things are overlooked; I am victim of that myself sometimes... Glad you got it fixed.
I can't wait to see the car when it comes out of the paint shop; it is downhill from there (we hope...)

 

I have discovered a key off drain of 1.4 Volt. It has been running my battery down. I pulled every fuse and nothing changed on the meter. I pulled on red wire off of the junction at the horn rely. And it dropped to .1mV (this is a great reading according to Interstate Battery, Inc.). I thought I will just start the car now and see what happens. It started right up, but Tach and Volt gage were not working. I popped in the fuse where the tack is and it worked fine. With the motor running I placed the eyelet back on the junction stud and the motor changed RPMs lower. I have one side of Volt gage on a hot post at the fuse box when the key is on and the other to ground.

The red wire removed buzzes out at the red on the Voltage regulator and at the fuse box position marked "INS IPS" with fuse in.
And guess' to what the problem might be other then operator error?

The tester I am using to get the .1mV now was giving to me by the Interstate Battery shop. It has a 1 ohm resistor with a 5A fuse. One clip goes to the battery terminal on to the Neg battery cable. While it is also connected to the Volt meter at the lead connection and set on DC.
Problem solved:11-15-08