Awesome patina- ‘66 Cutlass.
This beauty needs a lot of mechanical love. Regarding a-arms, etc., has anyone used CPP? Any problems?

 

Why does it "need" control arms? Unless they are damaged, just put new bushings and ball joints in the originals. If you must have aftermarket, UMI has a nice set and built a 1965 Cutlass to showcase their parts.

https://www.umiperformance.com/home/cars/1965-cutlass/

 

more pics please, I would liove to see if the interior is as nice as the outside of the car.

 

As far as needing control arms, I believe that the issue of "bump steer" would be corrected with newer control arms. Since, spindles are also original, I might as well modernize all of it.

 

Bump steer is caused when the arc of the spindle over the suspension travel is different than the arc traced by the tie rod. Simply buying aftermarket arms is unlikely to fix this. The A-body front suspension has a different problem, which is the change in tire camber over the suspension travel. This has nothing to do with bump steer. The right way to correct this is with tall spindles or tall ball joints. Depending on which spindles you get, you MAY need shorter upper arms to allow sufficient adjustment for setting the alignment. Again, you should fully understand how these parts are related before buying anything.

 

Don't quite understand the "tubular craze" either. There are documented cases of "chinesium" ball joints snapping, in place in cars that have been "converted". Am of belief that CPP is one of the ones selling offshore sourced products. Not sure if domestic suppliers of these arms - Global West, Hotchkiss, UMI, etc. are still using ALL North American parts in their units.

 

I apologize that I wasn't clear in my reply. As I understand it, the CPP a-arms that I am looking at have slightly longer top ball joints, which I was under the impression, corrects bumpsteer. If I am wrong, I wouldn't be surprised. I would use stock height spindle with lowering springs.
My question was asking if CPP products are any good. I know about Global West, UMI, SC&C, Detroit Speed, etc. I also know that these brands cost a lot more. IF CPP is trash, then I will have to dig deeper into my wallet, unfortunately.

 

Again, that's not "bumpsteer", that's changing the camber curve. Read the first box under "IMPORTANT NOTES" on this info sheet.

https://www.umiperformance.com/home/...loads/4056.pdf

 

Yes, I’d rather change out the ball joints and rebuild the control arms you have, rather than reaching out to the aftermarket.

As far as lowering, I love using Viking coil overs. Good price, infinite adjustability, ease off buying new springs if you change engines.
Theyve been in my race/street car for 7 years without a hitch.

LOVE that car btw.

 

Ok, I think I have managed to get the info into my thick skull. By going with the longer top ball joints, I am correcting the camber curve which is good. But it is not touching bumpsteer, which might or might not be a problem anyway...
Rebuilding the a-arms I have- I will research this. Would Moog have the ball joints to fit the stock control arms? I will research this too.

Thanks for the info!!

 

Correct. I'm pretty sure that Moog only sells factory replacement ball joints. Proforged and Ridetech are two sources of tall upper ball joints.