1972 350 Hard Starter When Warmed Up
April 24th, 2011, 04:33 AM
#1
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Posts: 1,220
1972 350 Hard Starter When Warmed Up
I was hoping someone out there would be able to have some advice on this one, about my 1972 Cutlass 350:
It's very rough to start when it's fully warmed up. No problem when it's cold or when it's fully warmed up and I try & start it within 5 minutes or so after shutting it off. However, if I shut it off and try & start it say , 15 minutes to a half hour later, it will not start unless I floor it and it then cranks too long in my view before it fires up. Even more un-nerving is the Generator light starts blinking just before it finally starts.
This is a 350 2 barrel, rebuilt with dual exhaust, and has the hidden Mallory e-Spark electronic ignition.
If anyone has any ideas, that would be a great birthday present for me today.
And,
Just wanted to wish you and yours a Happy Easter!
It's very rough to start when it's fully warmed up. No problem when it's cold or when it's fully warmed up and I try & start it within 5 minutes or so after shutting it off. However, if I shut it off and try & start it say , 15 minutes to a half hour later, it will not start unless I floor it and it then cranks too long in my view before it fires up. Even more un-nerving is the Generator light starts blinking just before it finally starts.
This is a 350 2 barrel, rebuilt with dual exhaust, and has the hidden Mallory e-Spark electronic ignition.
If anyone has any ideas, that would be a great birthday present for me today.
And,
Just wanted to wish you and yours a Happy Easter!
April 24th, 2011, 07:38 AM
#5
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Shorewood, Il.
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A pinhole in he fuel pump diaphram may be the cause.
It leaks down after the engine sits, effectivey siphoning the carb dry.
You could also have a heat-sink situation in the manifold, whereas the crossover is partially clogged, and the crap gets hotter after the engine sits warm, boiling the fuel out of the carb.
If it was me, the cheapest way to go woud be to put a one-way filter in the fuel line, and get 2-3 more base gaskets for the carb, acting like a heat shield.
You don't mention how hot the engine runs, but a 160 thermostat might solve a lot of problems, too.
You might also check your oil for fuel - internal leak on the carb.
Just had that on a '65 442.
It leaks down after the engine sits, effectivey siphoning the carb dry.
You could also have a heat-sink situation in the manifold, whereas the crossover is partially clogged, and the crap gets hotter after the engine sits warm, boiling the fuel out of the carb.
If it was me, the cheapest way to go woud be to put a one-way filter in the fuel line, and get 2-3 more base gaskets for the carb, acting like a heat shield.
You don't mention how hot the engine runs, but a 160 thermostat might solve a lot of problems, too.
You might also check your oil for fuel - internal leak on the carb.
Just had that on a '65 442.
Last edited by Rickman48; April 24th, 2011 at 07:43 AM.
April 27th, 2011, 07:42 AM
#8
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Posts: 1,003
Not sure the history of car. But in my case the PO did not rebuild the 2BBL carb correctly and to "fix" the poor performance of the carb adjusted the timing to compensate.
So, after I bought it I was chasing my tail trying figure out why it would run fine in certain situations and not in others.
I had the same starting conditions after a 15-20 minute heat soak occurred. But after I rebuilt the carb and adjusted the timing I was good to go.
d1
So, after I bought it I was chasing my tail trying figure out why it would run fine in certain situations and not in others.
I had the same starting conditions after a 15-20 minute heat soak occurred. But after I rebuilt the carb and adjusted the timing I was good to go.
d1
April 27th, 2011, 11:23 AM
#9
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Location: Rogues Island, USA
Posts: 3,613
Does the Mallory require a full 12v or does it need to be resisted down? My Mallory Uni-Lite was double resisted (original factory resistance wire and a ceramic ballast resistor in line with it) when I got the car and would do the same thing until I removed the 2nd resistor.
Other than that I'm thinking a poor ground or excessive resistance to the starter causing hard starting when hot and heat soaked. Have to have good grounds from body to chassis and body to engine
Other than that I'm thinking a poor ground or excessive resistance to the starter causing hard starting when hot and heat soaked. Have to have good grounds from body to chassis and body to engine
April 27th, 2011, 04:34 PM
#10
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 234
I was hoping someone out there would be able to have some advice on this one, about my 1972 Cutlass 350:
It's very rough to start when it's fully warmed up. No problem when it's cold or when it's fully warmed up and I try & start it within 5 minutes or so after shutting it off. However, if I shut it off and try & start it say , 15 minutes to a half hour later, it will not start unless I floor it and it then cranks too long in my view before it fires up. Even more un-nerving is the Generator light starts blinking just before it finally starts.
This is a 350 2 barrel, rebuilt with dual exhaust, and has the hidden Mallory e-Spark electronic ignition.
If anyone has any ideas, that would be a great birthday present for me today.
And,
Just wanted to wish you and yours a Happy Easter!
It's very rough to start when it's fully warmed up. No problem when it's cold or when it's fully warmed up and I try & start it within 5 minutes or so after shutting it off. However, if I shut it off and try & start it say , 15 minutes to a half hour later, it will not start unless I floor it and it then cranks too long in my view before it fires up. Even more un-nerving is the Generator light starts blinking just before it finally starts.
This is a 350 2 barrel, rebuilt with dual exhaust, and has the hidden Mallory e-Spark electronic ignition.
If anyone has any ideas, that would be a great birthday present for me today.
And,
Just wanted to wish you and yours a Happy Easter!
Don't know if this will apply to the 2 bbl but the 4bbl quadrajets would leak from the bottom of the bowl where the primary jets were located. We would clean them up and coat them with clear nail polish when rebuilding. It would cause the same situation you are describing though.
Last edited by jerseyjoe; April 27th, 2011 at 05:09 PM. Reason: update picture
April 28th, 2011, 06:52 PM
#11
Tony
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: wisconsin
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Don't know if this will apply to the 2 bbl but the 4bbl quadrajets would leak from the bottom of the bowl where the primary jets were located. We would clean them up and coat them with clear nail polish when rebuilding. It would cause the same situation you are describing though.
April 30th, 2011, 03:54 AM
#13
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All arrows are pointing to the direction of getting that carb rebuilt. This was a rebuilt motor & although the coloring on the carb looks great & would SEEM to indicate it's been gone through, I have no bills so I can't be sure. My thoughts are to remove it and if it is the original carb, get it rebuilt to handle today's gasolines. If it's not the original 2bl, I'll be shopping for a fresh one. No 4 barrel conversions here, this car needs to stay as original as I can keep it.
I'm after an economy not perrformance, as this car is horrible on gas. Sure would like to see 15 on the hwy
I'm after an economy not perrformance, as this car is horrible on gas. Sure would like to see 15 on the hwy
May 4th, 2011, 11:12 AM
#14
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Location: New Jersey
Posts: 234
All arrows are pointing to the direction of getting that carb rebuilt. This was a rebuilt motor & although the coloring on the carb looks great & would SEEM to indicate it's been gone through, I have no bills so I can't be sure. My thoughts are to remove it and if it is the original carb, get it rebuilt to handle today's gasolines. If it's not the original 2bl, I'll be shopping for a fresh one. No 4 barrel conversions here, this car needs to stay as original as I can keep it.
I'm after an economy not perrformance, as this car is horrible on gas. Sure would like to see 15 on the hwy
I'm after an economy not perrformance, as this car is horrible on gas. Sure would like to see 15 on the hwy
May 4th, 2011, 03:10 PM
#16
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Location: New Jersey
Posts: 234
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