Tburg7810

I've got a 72 cutlass supreme, needs new control arms and basically the entire front suspension might as well be replaced. I've got a couple questions, I'm new to car stuff, got the car from my dad and am in the marines so I don't have a lot of time to work on it but I definitely want to restore this beauty. What would you recommend I go with for control arms, as in any specific brand or package and also would coil overs be a suitable swap? I'd like the front to sit low but allow for adjustments as needed.. Please help!! Any help is appreciated.

Gary M

Lots of pictures will help get advise. Good that you are all in when it comes to restore. Thank you for noticing that these Olds cars are an important part of history and will be valuable as time passes. A new Corvette looses 1/3 rd. of its value when leaving the lot but in 30 years will start to regain that value. You have past that curve with this car and will see it increase in value every year. Invest wisely.

Lady72nRob71

If you rebuild the front end factory style, check out my "front end job" link below for the whole photo story. It will at least let you know what you are getting into, regardless what route you take.
I am happy with how it came out and still am.
Welcome to the site!

joe_padavano

Welcome. Depending on what you plan to do with the car, stock type control arms are fine. If you want tubular, there are many aftermarket ones to choose from. The Cutlass frame and suspension are the same as for the Chevelle in a given year.

The control arms won't lower the car. You'll need either lowering spindles, lowering springs, or cutting of your stock front springs.

NHolds

I went with no-name control arms off of Ebay. They have worked fine so far, with no problems. As for springs, went with QA1 coilovers for the adjustability.

IMAG0273_zps41e62a95.jpg

KDV

Are the A-arms rusted through or bent?

If not, you could probably sandblast and paint/powder coat and re-use. If you have to buy new ones, that's gonna be your biggest expense.

Tburg7810

Hey I appreciate all the feedback, to tell you the truth it's been a long time since looking at it but if I remember correctly the control arm on the front right side is actually fine, it's just about to give. The whole thing itself looks pretty messed up but I'll have to take some closer looks. The main problem being I'm home on 10 days of leave and only have 3 days left so I won't get a chance to get pictures or take a look since the car is a couple hours away in my grandfathers tool shed. But when I get back home next (which I have no clue when that would be) I will get some pics and hopefully start workin on it!

joe_padavano

I'm sorry, but what does that mean?

"it's actually fine, it's just about to give"???

Tburg7810

Lol my bad sorry so yeah the bushing it's got right now is practically non existent. Overall the entire from susp. Is pretty Jenky but I'm gonna need to get more pics and what not to get the help I need haha. Sorry guys, I wish I knew more to explain it and get more advice. I love working on **** and taking stuff apart but I have never done something big on the car like an entire suspension so I'm a little in the dark on this one.

joe_padavano

The bushings and ball joints are replaceable, so unless the shaft has worn through the metal sleeve and into the control arm itself, you don't need to replace the arm.

Tburg7810

Here is a few pictures of my Olds, this is what i have in my library, ill get more on here a little more closer up in probably about a year haha.

metricmetal

Hey guys,
I'm kind of in the same situation. My upper and lower ball joints need replaced, but while I was watching "All Girls Garage" they went with new control arms as it would save on time/labor.
Any opinions on whether that's a good idea or bad? I am not doing the work, but having a garage do it for me so I value your opinions.
Thanks,
Mark

brown7373

While it may save "the Girls" time and labor, it also plugs their advertiser who makes the tubular control arms. I see you are new to this site, so welcome. Usually when we get a new (to us) car, there are a lot of things that need addressed. Usually the first thing I look at are the brakes, and I rebuild or replace hoses, pads, shoes etc. as needed. Ball joints and bushings are also an important safety item. But unless you are going to greatly modify the suspension for improved handling, I would think aftermarket control arms would be well down the list for things you need to address. New ball joints and bushings on stock control arms will greatly improve the ride and handling. Coupled with radial tires, it will be considerably better than when it was new.

metricmetal

Thanks Brown,
I've been lurking on the site for a while, but just joined as I recently got my Cutlass. I laughed out loud about the list of things needed. I just put tons of $ into mechanical issues... master cylinder, cylinders for the front brakes, brake lines, trans cooling lines, fuel filter, carb rebuild, radiator, fan clutch, & MSD ignition. Suspension was next, but I'm tapped out for this year.
Your point about sponsors never occurred to me and is a great point! I can't tell you how happy I am to hear that new ball joints and bushings will improve the ride. It's pretty sketchy right now.
Thanks!

oldcutlass

Sounds to me a bit of research and reading will help you dramatically.

metricmetal

That's why I'm here Eric. :-) Besides, I watch tons of shows and my mechanic is my neighbor, and he specializes in working on classics. I just caught the episode a week or two ago and thought new controls arms vs. pressing in new ball joints might be the way to go. The saving time/money thing is what caught my attention not so much the pro and cons of tubular vs stock or whatever. What I do know is I want to keep the car as close to original/stock as possible so I'll most likely just replace the ball joints and bushings.

Allan R

You don't have a Cutlass Supreme - you have what appears to be a Cutlass S (Sport). The body line of the Supreme is completely different than the Sport. Check your VIN. It likely starts out 3G87. If it was a CS it would have started out 3J57. Check the 4th digit of the VIN - that represents the motor. If it's an H it's a 350 2bbl, M is a 350 4bbl, and U will be a 455 4bbl. If you post the VIN number and picture of the cowl tag, it can be decoded really easily to verify the time build date, plant, and some of the original equipment.

The car in the picture appears to have been retrofitted with 442 numerals and script, because none of the 442's came with rocker moldings. That was a delete on the W29 appearance and handling package. It appears that the car may have the FE2 suspension or had it added as there is a rear sway bar. It's a nice looking car and there's a lot of fun to be had driving it.

Good news is that the suspension parts on the CS and Sport are the same so no problem getting parts.

Thank you for your service.

joe_padavano

^^^^THIS!!!

It's called product placement. Since everyone records shows and fast forwards through the commercials, advertisers now resort to placement of their product in the "content" of the show. Of course, car magazines have been doing this for decades in their tech articles.

metricmetal

Allen, I know you weren't replying to me, but thanks for the post. That's really awesome info.