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I am finaly going to bite the bullet and order a new trailer. I've been borrowing from others forever so it's time. I've got it speced out as a 20' electric tilt with 2 7K axles and heavy duty drive over fenders. The only other option that I am going back and forth on is the wide deck option. Basically adds 9" of decking to each side in front and behind the fenders to make it 102" wide vs 84" wide. It will add about $800 to the already substantial cost. This will be the farm trailer so moving something tractor sized is not out of the question. Please talk me in to or out of it.
If you go wide body make sure your state doesn't have some arcane statute on the books concerning trailer or vehicle width. Gives them an excuse to deny tags or jack the registration fee up.
But yeah, you should be able to haul car, tractor or about anything you wanted with 14k worth of axles and the wide deck option.
If your buying a trailer to haul a car, the car either doesn’t run, or your too scared to drive it. I don’t get it- what’s the dilemma?
While it is true that my car is currently in a state of disassembly, my dilemma is whether to order the trailer with the wide deck or without the wide deck. This is probably the last trailer that I will order, and I don’t want to be kicking myself every time I use it that I wish would or would not have. Just typing this out makes me think I should go with the wide deck.
I bought a wide deck, which I just call a deckover. I didn't want to worry about something being too wide or too heavy. The tilt is a little awkward I think because it doesn't roll back like a truck would, it just tilts up and is a little steep. I installed a winch on it as well for the vehicles that don't run. Now if I have a truck that I need to tow, I don't need to worry if the trailer can handle it.
I also have 7K axles, with brakes. Keep in mind, you can't put 14K pounds on the trailer, the gross weight includes the weight of the trailer. I think my owners manual says I have a useful capacity of 9K plus. Plenty for me.
Also be very sure your tow vehicle can handle 14K. You don't want the trailer to become the tail wagging the dog.
If you can afford it, you should absolutely buy this. Unless you want to move locomotives, you'll never be wishing you had a bigger trailer.
The trailer isn't any wider than a regular one, just uses up all of the available space. The one i'm looking at would not be considered a deckover as the fenders are still above the deck.
This one has a steel deck option, mine would be wood between the side extensions.
I'm guessing the trailer with the wider deck is taller? If yes height would make it a little less stable. If the distance between the fenders is wider than anything you would trailer then get the less expensive one. Consider that the wider deck may weigh more, then factor in your tow vehicles towing and payload capacities.
I read a lot about RV trailering and frequently trailer an 8K lb. trailer. If you have the option get axles with serviceable wheel bearings vs. sealed for life cartridge bearings. Our trailer has the sealed for life cartridge bearings called NevrLube's, personally I'd rather have bearings that can be cleaned and inspected periodically. Tires are also an area of concern, look for quality tires made in the US if possible, currently running Goodyear Endurance's. Have a weight distribution hitch with sway control on an F250, the package tows very well.
The deck height is the same whether it has the side extensions on or not. It would assume it would weigh more but wouldn't think enough to really affect how much could be carried. I have no idea what nationality the tires are but wouldn't be suprised if they were imported.
The deck height is the same whether it has the side extensions on or not. It would assume it would weigh more but wouldn't think enough to really affect how much could be carried. I have no idea what nationality the tires are but wouldn't be suprised if they were imported.
Get more trailer than you think you need. It’s just like building a garage, when it’s all finished you think you have plenty of room. 6 months later your wishing you built a bigger one.
I seriously doubt the tires on any new trailer are very good. Seems like the trailer builders cut corners wherever they can to keep the cost down. Tires are a easy place to save a couple bucks.
I don’t know if this is still true, but Indiana requires brakes on every wheel. Supposedly a lot of dealers were getting around that law by buying trailers made outside of Indiana. My first trailer I bought used from a friend (he bought it new) it had brakes on just the rear axle. When I repacked the bearings I installed a brake kit on the front axle and wired them in. The trailer stopped much better. If it’s a trailer your going to load and work heavy, make sure it has brakes on every wheel.
Inspect the wiring. I DESPISE scotch lock wire splices. I just finished installing all new LED lights and wiring on my trailer. There were 25 of those stupid scotch locks, one at every light and brake connection. Everyone of them was full of geeen corrosion and the wire was corroded up inside the insulation. I’m guessing all trailer builders do this, it’s much easier/faster/cheaper to crimp the scotch lock instead of making a proper weatherproof connection. If the trailer your looking at is wired like that, before Mother Nature gets a firm grip on the wiring I’d strongly consider replacing the scotch lock with a better method of connection.
December 22nd, 2020, 03:18 PM
