fix the house alarm? Radio Shack
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Posts: 7,286
fix the house alarm? Radio Shack
Radio Shack 49-475 4-zone alarm
bought new about 23 yrs ago
worked great until last week.
Suddenly for no apparent reason it would trip and scream, typically reporting a Zone 1 front door violation, but both door switches work fine. Also, there was no warning beeping before the siren sounded, which would happen if the zone was actually having a violation or malfunction. I switched off the siren for a while to allow me to troubleshoot w/o annoying the neighbors.
Last night it tripped itself again, both lights flashing.
Reset would no longer work.
Unplugging battery and AC power only made it worse, now it just flashes everything when it powers up, and nothing can be reset or altered.
I even removed every one of the connecting wires except power in, to eliminate any exterior zone sensor malfunctions.... no better.
There was a lightning storm last week... but this thing died almost gradually.
I have the board out, looking for problems. I see two large electrolytic caps 2200 & 3300 mF, and we know they have a finite life. I guess I can test/ replace those and see if it helps. There are also 10 smaller electrolytics on the board.... just replace all of them??
On the heat sink are 3 componenets
-soldered in bridge rectifier, this does not seem to be a problem
-two small 3-leg square things "L7812CV 99214" ST brand and
-"LM317T 99222" also ST brand
the 7812 & 317T are evidently voltage regulators:
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...45960087,d.aWc
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...45960087,d.aWc
I guess I missed 2 or 3 systems on epay by a week. Several similar systems available, but not the exact same thing, which I have 36 wires connected to... I *do not* want to go to a wireless system and the endless battery buying that entails. It's been a great system for these many years. Radio Shack has become pretty useless for stuff like this, nothing much for sale anymore. Just phone accessories and key fob batteries.
Anybody got tips or a system for sale?
13123
bought new about 23 yrs ago
worked great until last week.
Suddenly for no apparent reason it would trip and scream, typically reporting a Zone 1 front door violation, but both door switches work fine. Also, there was no warning beeping before the siren sounded, which would happen if the zone was actually having a violation or malfunction. I switched off the siren for a while to allow me to troubleshoot w/o annoying the neighbors.
Last night it tripped itself again, both lights flashing.
Reset would no longer work.
Unplugging battery and AC power only made it worse, now it just flashes everything when it powers up, and nothing can be reset or altered.
I even removed every one of the connecting wires except power in, to eliminate any exterior zone sensor malfunctions.... no better.
There was a lightning storm last week... but this thing died almost gradually.
I have the board out, looking for problems. I see two large electrolytic caps 2200 & 3300 mF, and we know they have a finite life. I guess I can test/ replace those and see if it helps. There are also 10 smaller electrolytics on the board.... just replace all of them??
On the heat sink are 3 componenets
-soldered in bridge rectifier, this does not seem to be a problem
-two small 3-leg square things "L7812CV 99214" ST brand and
-"LM317T 99222" also ST brand
the 7812 & 317T are evidently voltage regulators:
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...45960087,d.aWc
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...45960087,d.aWc
I guess I missed 2 or 3 systems on epay by a week. Several similar systems available, but not the exact same thing, which I have 36 wires connected to... I *do not* want to go to a wireless system and the endless battery buying that entails. It's been a great system for these many years. Radio Shack has become pretty useless for stuff like this, nothing much for sale anymore. Just phone accessories and key fob batteries.
Anybody got tips or a system for sale?
13123
Connoisseur d'Junque
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 21,183
From: The Hudson Valley
You can change the electrolytics, but is sure does sound like a bad chip to me.
I'd recommend finding another older unit, like you're doing, and then swapping it in.
You'll go insane if you try to fix it.
- Eric
I'd recommend finding another older unit, like you're doing, and then swapping it in.
You'll go insane if you try to fix it.
- Eric
Administrator
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 42,496
From: Poteau, Ok
What about the wiring? Switch the offending zone with a known good one? Or, if the alarm is looking for an open, just hook the front door zone in series with another zone, and jumper the offending zone and see if it trips on its own.
Last edited by oldcutlass; May 4, 2013 at 11:19 AM.
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Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 11,798
From: Plano, TX
If you decide to replace it, do NOT get an X10 system - they stink big time. Easy to set up but full of problems. I pulled lots of hair out messing with systems like this.
The best is a traditional hardwired system, like from DSC. Running wiring is a pain but after that, they are almost maintenance free! Even the older systems are very reliable and can be cheap to buy online.
Wire all of your doors and install a few glass break and motion detectors. Set motion sensors to low sensitivity and you will be set!
They are compatible with monitor companies if you choose one later. Just do not go with ADT...
The best is a traditional hardwired system, like from DSC. Running wiring is a pain but after that, they are almost maintenance free! Even the older systems are very reliable and can be cheap to buy online.
Wire all of your doors and install a few glass break and motion detectors. Set motion sensors to low sensitivity and you will be set!
They are compatible with monitor companies if you choose one later. Just do not go with ADT...
Connoisseur d'Junque
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 21,183
From: The Hudson Valley
The way you describe your problem, it sounds like more than that, though.
- Eric
Administrator
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 42,496
From: Poteau, Ok
The only reason I suggested the above was to eliminate 1 or the other. It would be ashamed to concentrate on the wrong part. Removing the wiring basically leaves an open circuit or an alarm condition, I would assume it's looking for a closed loop as an all clear.
Last edited by oldcutlass; May 4, 2013 at 01:40 PM.
Connoisseur d'Junque
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 21,183
From: The Hudson Valley
Some look for a specific resistance range, like 2,000-3,000Ω, so if you put two zones with termination resistors in series, you would have too much resistance.
Check the resistance of each loop, and you'll know.
- Eric
Check the resistance of each loop, and you'll know.
- Eric
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Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 7,286
Update-
Ck'd both large caps on board and found ok- resistance goes quickly to infinite, from a low value, using Fluke 322 DCV meter. Removed both from board, tested OK same way off the board.
The zones are all NC magnetic switches, such that a magnet closes the switch when the door or window is in the secured position. All wired in, even the garage. I noticed the front door is picky and tripped if the main door moved even a little, but BOTH front doors have to be opened to break the frt door circuit, and that's very unlikely in practice unless a person is going thru the doorway.
Before removing the board I had ALL the zone wires off the board, just the power connected. Started by removing the Panic switch wires- because it acted like a Panic Button hit.
Got to the electronics store at 3 to find they close at 2:30
set up epay search for that model # to notify me if one appears.
Ck'd both large caps on board and found ok- resistance goes quickly to infinite, from a low value, using Fluke 322 DCV meter. Removed both from board, tested OK same way off the board.
The zones are all NC magnetic switches, such that a magnet closes the switch when the door or window is in the secured position. All wired in, even the garage. I noticed the front door is picky and tripped if the main door moved even a little, but BOTH front doors have to be opened to break the frt door circuit, and that's very unlikely in practice unless a person is going thru the doorway.
Before removing the board I had ALL the zone wires off the board, just the power connected. Started by removing the Panic switch wires- because it acted like a Panic Button hit.
Got to the electronics store at 3 to find they close at 2:30
set up epay search for that model # to notify me if one appears.
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 11,798
From: Plano, TX
Do you know if you have end-of-line resistors? Measure with an ohm meter from common to zone 1 (bad) and common to zone 2 (good) to see if they are the same.
As mentioned, some systems require resistors so they can sense an open or a shorted condition.
I once had an issue where the house shifted and a wire was pinched between a rafter and joist. The short caused a tamper alarm.
I had another issue in the sensors in my workshop going off when it rained. The wiring (sprinkler wire) was run through an underground drain and a rat chewed them. The water in the pipe changed the resistance. That was a pain to figure out.
As mentioned, some systems require resistors so they can sense an open or a shorted condition.
I once had an issue where the house shifted and a wire was pinched between a rafter and joist. The short caused a tamper alarm.
I had another issue in the sensors in my workshop going off when it rained. The wiring (sprinkler wire) was run through an underground drain and a rat chewed them. The water in the pipe changed the resistance. That was a pain to figure out.
Thread Starter
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No resistors except I see one in the fire detection ckt.
I have the bare board out on the table, so house wiring is out of the picture.
I put a jumper on all 4 zones gnd-NC terms and made it a little happier but still no joy. Cannot change day mode, which zones are active or not, nothing responds like it should
On the heat sink votage regulators I got 10-13V on all 3 legs of both
Large caps test OK in place and off board, small electrolytics can't be tested on board with my meter, they all just read infinite ohms.
Gnd to various Test Point voltages gave readings from 0 to 13v, none of which I know what it's supposed to be.
Have to give up and get another system I guess
As I suspected, Radio Shack is USELESS
Youngster working there has no clue
the store is mostly phones and phone accessories.
Not ONE magnetic alarm switch
I have the bare board out on the table, so house wiring is out of the picture.
I put a jumper on all 4 zones gnd-NC terms and made it a little happier but still no joy. Cannot change day mode, which zones are active or not, nothing responds like it should
On the heat sink votage regulators I got 10-13V on all 3 legs of both
Large caps test OK in place and off board, small electrolytics can't be tested on board with my meter, they all just read infinite ohms.
Gnd to various Test Point voltages gave readings from 0 to 13v, none of which I know what it's supposed to be.
Have to give up and get another system I guess
As I suspected, Radio Shack is USELESS
Youngster working there has no clue
the store is mostly phones and phone accessories.
Not ONE magnetic alarm switch
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 11,798
From: Plano, TX
Did you ever try to ohm across each of the sensor wires to check for a resistor? Sometimes they are located at the sensor themselves.
We just have not got a definite answer if it uses resistors. Not using them on the bench will cause it to be unhappy also.
If you decide to replace it, and you have the sensors wired, a DSC system can be installed with little trouble. You can monitor it yourself with a pager or cell phone, too.
Not surprised that the rat shack couldn't help. They are nothing that they used to be.
We just have not got a definite answer if it uses resistors. Not using them on the bench will cause it to be unhappy also.
If you decide to replace it, and you have the sensors wired, a DSC system can be installed with little trouble. You can monitor it yourself with a pager or cell phone, too.
Not surprised that the rat shack couldn't help. They are nothing that they used to be.
Thread Starter
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Posts: 7,286
DSC- have not seen that
Will go search now...
I am finding lots of Honeywell systems in the $100 range for searches with "-wireless" to avoid that.
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 11,798
From: Plano, TX
I am sure you have seen the keypads before. These are professional grade units, the ones most monitoring companies use and installed by home builders and businesses.
They should be able to use your existing wiring and have lots of room for expansion and upgrades.
I installed two from the 'Power' series, including an old cheap legacy unit for my mom's house and have had no trouble with the units. Maybe on my sensor wiring but not the units themselves.
If you do get one, and need help programming it, I can provide quite a bit on knowledge if you need.
They should be able to use your existing wiring and have lots of room for expansion and upgrades.
I installed two from the 'Power' series, including an old cheap legacy unit for my mom's house and have had no trouble with the units. Maybe on my sensor wiring but not the units themselves.
If you do get one, and need help programming it, I can provide quite a bit on knowledge if you need.
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Son of the DOG
http://support.radioshack.com/suppor.../doc7/7178.htm
this system REQUIRES a serial communicating proprietary control head, which is now unobtainium of course.
Sell was asked 3-4 times about a control box but is not coherently responsive.
So...
back to, what is a good choice?
Looks like everything I find is "wireless"
I do NOT want to sign up for battery replacements forever.
I have the wires in place already...
http://support.radioshack.com/suppor.../doc7/7178.htm
this system REQUIRES a serial communicating proprietary control head, which is now unobtainium of course.
Sell was asked 3-4 times about a control box but is not coherently responsive.
So...
back to, what is a good choice?
Looks like everything I find is "wireless"
I do NOT want to sign up for battery replacements forever.
I have the wires in place already...
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 7,286
I cannot find this system of which you speak.
This is what I get
http://www.ebay.com/sch/sis.html?_kw...ecurity+System
I do have 2 keypads, with MANY wires run to each. MSU salvage had lots of stranded 12-conductor cable for cheap at the time, so there's at least 36 wires in the main box, and probably 12 at each button box. I know we had to have 2 power, and at least one on/off and one panic wire at each button box. Wires is not a problem.
Here's an idea:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tchlink:top:en
I have one of these PLC's, the only problem is that the above is 24V and mine runs on 100-240VAC, so there would be no battery backup. They make a 12V version but it's uncommon and hard to find w/o buying direct from the maker- $$$$ and wait 6 weeks. I have the usb cable and programming capability. Eight inputs and 4 outputs get used rapidly too...
one input can toggle on/off, the others can be zone loops. One can easily be programmed for panic, screams siren at any time, even if alarm is not armed. The outputs could be
Green Light
Red Light
Siren
pre-alarm alerter
The idiot epay seller, who failed time and again to answer my inquiries about a control head for the alarm... now says yeah, he has it, will list it this weekend. Not, "will send it today" or "will sell it to you for $x right now".
I replied "Cool, you can sell it as a working assembly after you test it by hooking it to the box which you will have by next Friday. Should command a good price then."
The ad said returns within 14 days are cool, and paypale is real good at screwing sellers out of their money if the buyer has any sort of problem, or just pretends to.
Last edited by Octania; May 12, 2013 at 09:24 AM.
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Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 11,798
From: Plano, TX
Dude, I apologize - it is 832! I was on pain med this morning and could not think straight...
832 means the main panel supports 8 zones and can be expanded to 32 with optional daughter boards.
How many zones do you have now? What kind are they?
You will need the PC5010 panel (control board), back up battery (std 12V sealed lead acid), mounting lock-box, 120V to 16V AC transformer and at least one keypad.
There are several keypads to choose from depending how simple or sophisticated you want. Some have just LEDs some have LCDs (5508) and some have alphanumeric menus (LCD 5501Z).
You should be able to use your existing sensors, as long as they are all give an open or close switch output.
If you are an ebay fan, here is a system with main board and keypads - just add the generic extras.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DSC-LCD-5501...item5d3e0dcd24
IF you do buy a used main board (PC5010) from ebay, get the seller to verify IN WRITING or email that the unit is supplied with a working INSTALLER'S code! If it is new and unused, then the installers code is a default number in the manual. If it is locked, it will not be too usable. I am thinking that the resetting to default procedure requires the installers code.
The new replacement for the 832 is the 1832, which is here: http://www.dsc.com/index.php?n=products&o=view&id=2
However I do not know how much similarity it shares with the 832.
As for the PLCs, i know nothing about them.
832 means the main panel supports 8 zones and can be expanded to 32 with optional daughter boards.
How many zones do you have now? What kind are they?
You will need the PC5010 panel (control board), back up battery (std 12V sealed lead acid), mounting lock-box, 120V to 16V AC transformer and at least one keypad.
There are several keypads to choose from depending how simple or sophisticated you want. Some have just LEDs some have LCDs (5508) and some have alphanumeric menus (LCD 5501Z).
You should be able to use your existing sensors, as long as they are all give an open or close switch output.
If you are an ebay fan, here is a system with main board and keypads - just add the generic extras.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DSC-LCD-5501...item5d3e0dcd24
IF you do buy a used main board (PC5010) from ebay, get the seller to verify IN WRITING or email that the unit is supplied with a working INSTALLER'S code! If it is new and unused, then the installers code is a default number in the manual. If it is locked, it will not be too usable. I am thinking that the resetting to default procedure requires the installers code.
The new replacement for the 832 is the 1832, which is here: http://www.dsc.com/index.php?n=products&o=view&id=2
However I do not know how much similarity it shares with the 832.
As for the PLCs, i know nothing about them.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 7,286
Dude, I apologize - it is 832! I was on pain med this morning and could not think straight...
832 means the main panel supports 8 zones and can be expanded to 32 with optional daughter boards.
How many zones do you have now? What kind are they?
=========================
I have 3 or 4 zones, 5 if you include the Panic buttons. Frt door, back door, all of garage, and basement door. all are basic NC magnet switches. No magnet = open ckt = problem.
You should be able to use your existing sensors, as long as they are all give an open or close switch output.
====================
no worries then
The garage is usually left unlocked for my convenience- it is in a fenced yard- but if the door is opened while the alarm is on, I will be alerted. Never caught anyone but myself as far as I know.
Anywho
HERE is what I ended up with today- has a "cellular box" so it can call folks even w/o a phone landline I guess??
http://www.ebay.com/itm/140967498723...84.m1439.l2649
"You are bidding on a used (but only 3 month old) home security alarm system by DSC / Honeywell. The system came with a brand new house, but I switched after less than 3 month to an ADT home security system.
The system was professionally uninstalled by a certified technician and is guaranteed to be in 100% working condition.
The following items are included in the system:
2 - DSC RFK 5501 keypad units
1 - PC1616 Burglar/Fire/Health Care Contoller
1 - Telguard Digital TG-4 Cellular Radio (a $200 value!)
1 - Power Sonic PS - 1250 Back-Up Battery
1 - Honeywell AD 48 Transformer
1 - Honeywell BP 6217 Siren
1 - Wireless Motion Sensor WS4904P
Please note that no installation or user manual is included with this system; please refer to the manufacturers' websites for this information."
If you are an ebay fan, here is a system with main board and keypads - just add the generic extras.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DSC-LCD-5501...item5d3e0dcd24
================
I missed that one. Never saw it. Three pads would be nice but we have made do with two so far.
IF you do buy a used main board (PC5010) from ebay,
===========================
crap I got
1 - PC1616 Burglar/Fire/Health Care Contoller
and I have not the slightest idea what the differences may be
get the seller to verify IN WRITING or email that the unit is supplied with a working INSTALLER'S code! If it is new and unused, then the installers code is a default number in the manual. If it is locked, it will not be too usable. I am thinking that the resetting to default procedure requires the installers code.
=================
I will notify the seller that before payment I want such an affirmation. Already out $64 so far on the last unit, which I may get $51 back out of. Is this one of them things that needs a cable to talk to a computer?
As for the PLCs, i know nothing about them.
=====================
Used mostly for industrial timing of processes, I have found them removed from tanning facilities, etc. With your $100 PLC to USB cable and free software on your computer, you can compose just about any program you can imagine- timers, counters, displays... etc. you wire the programming pieces together on the screen like in real life, test run it to be sure it behaves as you want, and voila. I was using them for durability testing of fans- turn on, watch current sensor, declare a fault if motor not on and happy by 15 seconds into the ON term. Count cycles, run time, number of faults, track day and time of most recent 8 faults, stuff like that. I want to hook one up in the home so you press a button and the PLC gives you 15m of hot water for the shower, then turns off for 10s as a warning, then gives you 2m more to wrap it up. Some folks think they need to shave and whatnot in the shower while it runs 2gpm of heated water down the drain. I would add a 10m delay until another shower is allowed, and a secret over-ride control that gives 2h unlimited for occasions where everyone needs a shower right away today.
832 means the main panel supports 8 zones and can be expanded to 32 with optional daughter boards.
How many zones do you have now? What kind are they?
=========================
I have 3 or 4 zones, 5 if you include the Panic buttons. Frt door, back door, all of garage, and basement door. all are basic NC magnet switches. No magnet = open ckt = problem.
You should be able to use your existing sensors, as long as they are all give an open or close switch output.
====================
no worries then
The garage is usually left unlocked for my convenience- it is in a fenced yard- but if the door is opened while the alarm is on, I will be alerted. Never caught anyone but myself as far as I know.
Anywho
HERE is what I ended up with today- has a "cellular box" so it can call folks even w/o a phone landline I guess??
http://www.ebay.com/itm/140967498723...84.m1439.l2649
"You are bidding on a used (but only 3 month old) home security alarm system by DSC / Honeywell. The system came with a brand new house, but I switched after less than 3 month to an ADT home security system.
The system was professionally uninstalled by a certified technician and is guaranteed to be in 100% working condition.
The following items are included in the system:
2 - DSC RFK 5501 keypad units
1 - PC1616 Burglar/Fire/Health Care Contoller
1 - Telguard Digital TG-4 Cellular Radio (a $200 value!)
1 - Power Sonic PS - 1250 Back-Up Battery
1 - Honeywell AD 48 Transformer
1 - Honeywell BP 6217 Siren
1 - Wireless Motion Sensor WS4904P
Please note that no installation or user manual is included with this system; please refer to the manufacturers' websites for this information."
If you are an ebay fan, here is a system with main board and keypads - just add the generic extras.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DSC-LCD-5501...item5d3e0dcd24
================
I missed that one. Never saw it. Three pads would be nice but we have made do with two so far.
IF you do buy a used main board (PC5010) from ebay,
===========================
crap I got
1 - PC1616 Burglar/Fire/Health Care Contoller
and I have not the slightest idea what the differences may be
get the seller to verify IN WRITING or email that the unit is supplied with a working INSTALLER'S code! If it is new and unused, then the installers code is a default number in the manual. If it is locked, it will not be too usable. I am thinking that the resetting to default procedure requires the installers code.
=================
I will notify the seller that before payment I want such an affirmation. Already out $64 so far on the last unit, which I may get $51 back out of. Is this one of them things that needs a cable to talk to a computer?
As for the PLCs, i know nothing about them.
=====================
Used mostly for industrial timing of processes, I have found them removed from tanning facilities, etc. With your $100 PLC to USB cable and free software on your computer, you can compose just about any program you can imagine- timers, counters, displays... etc. you wire the programming pieces together on the screen like in real life, test run it to be sure it behaves as you want, and voila. I was using them for durability testing of fans- turn on, watch current sensor, declare a fault if motor not on and happy by 15 seconds into the ON term. Count cycles, run time, number of faults, track day and time of most recent 8 faults, stuff like that. I want to hook one up in the home so you press a button and the PLC gives you 15m of hot water for the shower, then turns off for 10s as a warning, then gives you 2m more to wrap it up. Some folks think they need to shave and whatnot in the shower while it runs 2gpm of heated water down the drain. I would add a 10m delay until another shower is allowed, and a secret over-ride control that gives 2h unlimited for occasions where everyone needs a shower right away today.
Connoisseur d'Junque
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 21,183
From: The Hudson Valley
I want to hook one up in the home so you press a button and the PLC gives you 15m of hot water for the shower, then turns off for 10s as a warning, then gives you 2m more to wrap it up. Some folks think they need to shave and whatnot in the shower while it runs 2gpm of heated water down the drain. I would add a 10m delay until another shower is allowed, and a secret over-ride control that gives 2h unlimited for occasions where everyone needs a shower right away today.
- Eric
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 11,798
From: Plano, TX
HERE is what I ended up with today- has a "cellular box" so it can call folks even w/o a phone landline I guess??
http://www.ebay.com/itm/140967498723...84.m1439.l2649
"You are bidding on a used (but only 3 month old) home security alarm system by DSC / Honeywell. The system came with a brand new house, but I switched after less than 3 month to an ADT home security system.
The system was professionally uninstalled by a certified technician and is guaranteed to be in 100% working condition.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/140967498723...84.m1439.l2649
"You are bidding on a used (but only 3 month old) home security alarm system by DSC / Honeywell. The system came with a brand new house, but I switched after less than 3 month to an ADT home security system.
The system was professionally uninstalled by a certified technician and is guaranteed to be in 100% working condition.
It looks to support 6 hardwired zones as is.
Yes the cellular interface allows communication with a monitoring station without using a regular phone cable. You do not have to use that if you have a phone line.
Not sure if this connects to a computer as I am not familiar with these new units. I think many of them do just for fast programming, but you can also program it from the keypads.
Many of the new home security systems are installed by a monitoring company the builder contracts with. The systems are like cell phones, free or cheaply sold but locked to a particular monitoring company. My sister's house came with one and it could not be unlocked since the installer's code was not known. Even the hard reset to default did not work.
So make sure you have an installers code. The master code is the highest user's code so it will not let you reprogram it.
It is possible it was never programmed and locked to a certain monitoring company.
If that is the case, then the default code is in the install manual.
That seller decided to get really screwed with adt. They stick you in a 3 year contract and eventually has you paying 40 a month towards the end. They raise the price every 6 months after the first year or so.
Smith Thompson is no contract, 17 a month, period, if you want monitoring.
Thread Starter
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Posts: 7,286
Thread Starter
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Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 7,286
Curses... default programmer's code does not work and according to
http://www.diyalarmforum.com/board/i...?topic=11518.0
I just need a special cable and USB adapter and software from the company then I can maybe possibly access the board and reset the numbers and begin to be able to program and use this thing:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/140967498723...84.m1439.l2649
Of course, with my luck as it is, NOW all of a sudden a BRAND NEW one of the EXACT SAME alarm system I used to have appears for sale, but I have all extra money tied up in the computerized cluster#$%k seen above... Yay
http://www.diyalarmforum.com/board/i...?topic=11518.0
I just need a special cable and USB adapter and software from the company then I can maybe possibly access the board and reset the numbers and begin to be able to program and use this thing:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/140967498723...84.m1439.l2649
Of course, with my luck as it is, NOW all of a sudden a BRAND NEW one of the EXACT SAME alarm system I used to have appears for sale, but I have all extra money tied up in the computerized cluster#$%k seen above... Yay
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 11,798
From: Plano, TX
Try this hardware reset...
1. Power down the system completely.
2. Connect a short between Zone 1 and PGM1 on the control panel (remove all other wires from these terminals).
3. Power up the control panel (AC power only) for 10 full seconds.
4. Power down the control panel, remove short between Zone 1 and PGM1.
5. Power up the control panel.
However, a hardware default cannot be performed when the Installer Lockout feature is ON. In this case the main board will chatter the phone line seizure relay 10 times if the panel is powered up to indicate the feature is ON. In this case, you are f- , well you know. At that point the seller should let you return for refund.
1. Power down the system completely.
2. Connect a short between Zone 1 and PGM1 on the control panel (remove all other wires from these terminals).
3. Power up the control panel (AC power only) for 10 full seconds.
4. Power down the control panel, remove short between Zone 1 and PGM1.
5. Power up the control panel.
However, a hardware default cannot be performed when the Installer Lockout feature is ON. In this case the main board will chatter the phone line seizure relay 10 times if the panel is powered up to indicate the feature is ON. In this case, you are f- , well you know. At that point the seller should let you return for refund.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 7,286
did that per page 27 of
http://www.walkerhomesecurity.com/ho...03286_r000.pdf
reset ok, now a red "lock" appears on the control panel and it says "program"
So, I might be able to program it, will ck one more thing- listen for 10 clicks when applying AC power 1 more time but its now 1050pm and way past bedtime.
I wrote to seller asking for contact info of "professional installer" who removed the system
Sounds like the last hope is a purchase of cable and usb adapter and software and a WEEK OF #$R%#$% AROUND with the thing.
Grr...
Advertised as
"Used - in 100% working condition. Less than 3 month old!"
and "Good luck with your bid - you won't regret it!!!"
Yet I find myself regretting it already!
Maybe I can sell of the bits and pieces and someday buy the 49-475 that served me so well all those years.
http://www.walkerhomesecurity.com/ho...03286_r000.pdf
reset ok, now a red "lock" appears on the control panel and it says "program"
So, I might be able to program it, will ck one more thing- listen for 10 clicks when applying AC power 1 more time but its now 1050pm and way past bedtime.
I wrote to seller asking for contact info of "professional installer" who removed the system
Sounds like the last hope is a purchase of cable and usb adapter and software and a WEEK OF #$R%#$% AROUND with the thing.
Grr...
Advertised as
"Used - in 100% working condition. Less than 3 month old!"
and "Good luck with your bid - you won't regret it!!!"
Yet I find myself regretting it already!
Maybe I can sell of the bits and pieces and someday buy the 49-475 that served me so well all those years.
Last edited by Octania; May 21, 2013 at 08:09 PM.
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 11,798
From: Plano, TX
If you do not hear the 10 clicks, that is good. Do a *8 5555 and make sure it gives a prompt afterwards for entering more data. Mine gives 5 beeps and displays "enter selection - - -" A short and long beep is for invalid code.
If this works, then you can use it.
If you cannot get into it with these methods, i would demand the seller accept it for refund and buy the other one you saw.
If this works, then you can use it.
If you cannot get into it with these methods, i would demand the seller accept it for refund and buy the other one you saw.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 7,286
Where do the 10 clicks come from?
I was listening at the main box- I have not so good hearing- and got nothing.
At the number pad, the street noise precludes me hearing anything from that box like a relay click. No visual indicator eh?
Yeah, after resetting to defaults/ clear all I get is LOCKED light and BAD sound trying to enter the code.
Looks like a return. Will go ck epay see what the seller says.
I was listening at the main box- I have not so good hearing- and got nothing.
At the number pad, the street noise precludes me hearing anything from that box like a relay click. No visual indicator eh?
Yeah, after resetting to defaults/ clear all I get is LOCKED light and BAD sound trying to enter the code.
Looks like a return. Will go ck epay see what the seller says.
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 11,798
From: Plano, TX
The 10 clicks come from the phone relay on the main board UPON AC POWER UP with NO battery. If you hear them on power up it is BAD - the installer's code is locked. Not hearing them is GOOD and means the intaller code should return to 5555 on HW reset.
So do you get the same 'bad' sound if you enter the code 5555 or say 5554?
The lock light is supposed to mean the system is armed. It could light during programming, too. It is not exactly saying the code is locked.
So do you get the same 'bad' sound if you enter the code 5555 or say 5554?
The lock light is supposed to mean the system is armed. It could light during programming, too. It is not exactly saying the code is locked.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 7,286
What a NIGHTMARE
every night for a month now
http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...ml#post2119254
Finally at long last got the trouble light to go off, after KILLING the keypad last nite... well, it got better... the backlighting somehow got turned off.
Yet another keypad on the way....
Wireless still not working but now that I have the main system working I can start in on that.
every night for a month now
http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...ml#post2119254
Finally at long last got the trouble light to go off, after KILLING the keypad last nite... well, it got better... the backlighting somehow got turned off.
Yet another keypad on the way....
Wireless still not working but now that I have the main system working I can start in on that.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 7,286
The one keypad I set it up with to program was FAULTY. In addition to learning the programming and gibberish of the idiot written manual, I was fighting a keypad that had blanks or just plain LIES presented to me.
After the blanking gave it away as a POS, I used the OTHER keypad, and bought a 3rd one that has aplhanumeric display, and then things went much better.
We have one of those incidents where the higher the model number... the WORSE the item. The 5501 is a pc of crap suitable for clueless users after the expert does all the programming. The 5500 shows things in English.
After the lying pc of crap keypad was abandoned- and the wireless motion detector figured out- it worked so well I bought two wireless smoke/heat detectors via epay. Got them Friday, had them installed and working in no time. Easy, IF the keypad works right. I have never had smoke detector in the garage, which was not good. Tested out perfectly, when tripped, they sent alarm into FIRE alert mode, even if the system is not armed.
The cellular box is useless w/o a cell company to run it, and Verizon wants $30 a month for a G3/G4 line to do that, with data, so... not gonna happen.
I do not yet have the phone line attached, but I did get my N.O. panic buttons attached, contrary to what "the experts" online asserted....
Sure is a lot of functionality in that little tiny board, compared to the old Radio Shack unit.
After the blanking gave it away as a POS, I used the OTHER keypad, and bought a 3rd one that has aplhanumeric display, and then things went much better.
We have one of those incidents where the higher the model number... the WORSE the item. The 5501 is a pc of crap suitable for clueless users after the expert does all the programming. The 5500 shows things in English.
After the lying pc of crap keypad was abandoned- and the wireless motion detector figured out- it worked so well I bought two wireless smoke/heat detectors via epay. Got them Friday, had them installed and working in no time. Easy, IF the keypad works right. I have never had smoke detector in the garage, which was not good. Tested out perfectly, when tripped, they sent alarm into FIRE alert mode, even if the system is not armed.
The cellular box is useless w/o a cell company to run it, and Verizon wants $30 a month for a G3/G4 line to do that, with data, so... not gonna happen.
I do not yet have the phone line attached, but I did get my N.O. panic buttons attached, contrary to what "the experts" online asserted....
Sure is a lot of functionality in that little tiny board, compared to the old Radio Shack unit.
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