Center cap refinishing?
#1
Center cap refinishing?
Okay, so now that new 245/60/14 tires are going on soon, this is THE time to strip and powdercoat the wheels, polish the trim rings, and detail the center caps.
These are supposibly the 14x7JJ SSIII painted wheels with bolt on caps.
In the second picture, there are some painted sections on the cap (like dark grey) that needs refinishing. They are circled in red.
How do you do that economically? Anyone repainted these areas? If so, with what and how?
These are supposibly the 14x7JJ SSIII painted wheels with bolt on caps.
In the second picture, there are some painted sections on the cap (like dark grey) that needs refinishing. They are circled in red.
How do you do that economically? Anyone repainted these areas? If so, with what and how?
Last edited by Lady72nRob71; July 29th, 2009 at 06:54 PM.
#2
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Okay, so now that new 245/60/14 tires are going on soon, this is THE time to strip and powdercoat the wheels, polish the trim rings, and detail the center caps.
These are supposibly the 14x7JJ SSIII painted wheels with bolt on caps.
In the second picture, there are some painted sections on the cap (like dark grey) that needs refinishing. They are circled in red.
How do you do that economically? Anyone repainted these areas? If so, with what and how?
These are supposibly the 14x7JJ SSIII painted wheels with bolt on caps.
In the second picture, there are some painted sections on the cap (like dark grey) that needs refinishing. They are circled in red.
How do you do that economically? Anyone repainted these areas? If so, with what and how?
Maybe a much better way to go if you use different levels of sand paper to bring the finish down and then have the centers rechromed or polished. The circled areas are the part that I don't know how to refinish. A chrome shop would. The centers get like that from sloppy work at the tire shop or tire iron from the car. If it's not put on very carefully, it scratches the surface and leaves those ugly marks. I would suggest wrapping the impact wrench or tire iron end with masking tape a few times to prevent the scratching.
#3
No need to beadblast anything on those. Those look like they are in very nice shape.
You could probably use lacquer thinner to remove that highlight paint. If not, you should MASK OFF the surrounding chrome and then LIGHTLY SAND it off or scuff it off with a Scotchbrite pad. If you hit the surrounding chrome you will scratch it also.
>Use a very fine paper....600 wet or finer. Get as much of the old highlight paint as you want off of there.
>Once you are done, remove your old masking tape, clean the surfaces well remask the whole cap and spray the highlighted area with whatever paint you think matches that highlight color. To me it almost looks like a stain as it's very thin. Also...it almost looks like a light champagne type color. Take your pic on colors. Light coats so you don't have a thick edge at the maskng tape line. Whatever the factory used was VERY THINLY applied.
You should probably START the whole process with some good chrome polish (like Dupont N0. 7) ....get the chrome however clean you want it FIRST. Then proceed to the other steps. Applying chrome polish after you've painted the highlight areas may stain the fresh paint..too easy to get chrome polish on the paint even if you are careful.
You could probably use lacquer thinner to remove that highlight paint. If not, you should MASK OFF the surrounding chrome and then LIGHTLY SAND it off or scuff it off with a Scotchbrite pad. If you hit the surrounding chrome you will scratch it also.
>Use a very fine paper....600 wet or finer. Get as much of the old highlight paint as you want off of there.
>Once you are done, remove your old masking tape, clean the surfaces well remask the whole cap and spray the highlighted area with whatever paint you think matches that highlight color. To me it almost looks like a stain as it's very thin. Also...it almost looks like a light champagne type color. Take your pic on colors. Light coats so you don't have a thick edge at the maskng tape line. Whatever the factory used was VERY THINLY applied.
You should probably START the whole process with some good chrome polish (like Dupont N0. 7) ....get the chrome however clean you want it FIRST. Then proceed to the other steps. Applying chrome polish after you've painted the highlight areas may stain the fresh paint..too easy to get chrome polish on the paint even if you are careful.
Last edited by 70Post; July 29th, 2009 at 08:17 PM.
#4
Rob, all the factory ones I've seen are that grey color. But many years ago I rebuilt a 1971 Cutlass Supreme and painted it Ferd Grabber Blue. When I picked it up at the paint shop I thought "what did I do!" but gradually it grew on me. On that car I painted this area satin black and with those bright blue SSII wheels it really set them off. So all that to say if you want original go with the grey. But if that's not important to you consider other colors that might look good with your wheels.
Oh yeah, I masked off the rest of the caps and sprayed them. John
Oh yeah, I masked off the rest of the caps and sprayed them. John
#5
Some very nice advice so far - thank you all...
I failed to mention the chrome itself is very good, and I only plan to polish it up (before paint as instructed!) Only the paint needs attention.
The picture does not look well with the reflections. I have some Mothers metal and chrome polish, i might try that if recommended for chrome.
I will do the trim rings, too.
Good idea to mask when sanding - never even thought of it....
Any choice of a durable paint for these? I would like to go with a standard rattle can or a brush paint. Perhaps an epoxy spray paint? Should I prime if recommended? I wonder if some grey POR15 would work! (I have satin black POR15 - hmmmmm...)
The car itself should not see a tire place, but just in case I drop and spin a nut on them I would hope not to mess em up too bad...
Thanks!
I failed to mention the chrome itself is very good, and I only plan to polish it up (before paint as instructed!) Only the paint needs attention.
The picture does not look well with the reflections. I have some Mothers metal and chrome polish, i might try that if recommended for chrome.
I will do the trim rings, too.
Good idea to mask when sanding - never even thought of it....
Any choice of a durable paint for these? I would like to go with a standard rattle can or a brush paint. Perhaps an epoxy spray paint? Should I prime if recommended? I wonder if some grey POR15 would work! (I have satin black POR15 - hmmmmm...)
The car itself should not see a tire place, but just in case I drop and spin a nut on them I would hope not to mess em up too bad...
Thanks!
#6
I never realized that the SS wheel center caps were painted and chromed. I thought they were just chromed.
You might try 0000 steel wool to buff the scratches out. It would do the same thing that 600+ sand paper would do. The only thing is that the steel wool wouldn't deteriorate as fast. Good luck. Keep us posted.
You might try 0000 steel wool to buff the scratches out. It would do the same thing that 600+ sand paper would do. The only thing is that the steel wool wouldn't deteriorate as fast. Good luck. Keep us posted.
#7
Send your ole beat up ones to your buddy [moi] and buy these. IMHO lady feels neglected. You haven't spent enough on parts lately.
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...nos-parts.html
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...nos-parts.html
#8
I like the steel wool idea - I have tons of it! I have some scotchbrite, too...
You mean to my ladyfriend Muoi?? She wouldn't know what they are. She'd probably use 'em as cups and drink from them...
Nice caps for 60 each. It almost looked like they did not have the paint on them in their picture... Hmmm... I think I will keep the originals - they are in pretty good shape still.
She is fixing to get 1K's worth of tires and wheel refinishing...
If that ain't enough, she will be getting a rear suspension rebuild sooner than expected.
I have the lower control arms and sway bar, so might as go all the way - pressure wash, new upper bushings, coils, shocks, all rubber parts, axle refinishing, painting, etc, etc, etc..........
A rear suspension thread will be forming soon...
Just have to keep chanting, The body will stay on the chassis... The body will stay on the chassis... The body will stay on the chassis... The body will stay on the chassis...
Last edited by Lady72nRob71; July 30th, 2009 at 06:49 AM.
#9
#11
#12
Just so it's clear...the 600 grit is for use ONLY on the area that will be painted over (the highlighted area). Nothing will get scratches out of the chrome...not steel wool, etc.
NO POR15 stuff on those parts and no paint brushing. The POR probably won't look too good if you brush it on and the silver POR turns yellowish pretty quickly. If they make a grey it may do the same thing. You do want something with a satin or semigloss look to it as the highlighting isn't a high gloss finish.
If you prime use a very light coat so you don't get a thick buildup at the tape edges.
NO POR15 stuff on those parts and no paint brushing. The POR probably won't look too good if you brush it on and the silver POR turns yellowish pretty quickly. If they make a grey it may do the same thing. You do want something with a satin or semigloss look to it as the highlighting isn't a high gloss finish.
If you prime use a very light coat so you don't get a thick buildup at the tape edges.
#13
I found a Charcoal grey Rustoleum bomb-can in the garage and will give that a try. The cap color has a good match it seems.
I will mask the painted areas while I polish them, then pull that off and mask the polished parts for sanding & painting.
I will do very thin coats and just be careful with the lug wrench.
Looks like I have a weekend project...
Thanks!!
Last edited by Lady72nRob71; July 31st, 2009 at 11:45 AM.
#15
No brushies on the caps...
I did find a full bomb-can of matching dark grey which i think will work well.
Do the foamies really work better with POR15? I need to do some other parts with the brushes, but do not want the brush marks... Need to get some 'metal mask' today on the way home for the brake drums...
I did find a full bomb-can of matching dark grey which i think will work well.
Do the foamies really work better with POR15? I need to do some other parts with the brushes, but do not want the brush marks... Need to get some 'metal mask' today on the way home for the brake drums...
#16
That is awsome that you found a good spray paint to use. It will surely give you better coverage than a brush.
If you must brush something on, use a foam tipped brush or foam roller to eliminate brush strokes. You could probably paint a bumper with silver POR15 and a 2 inch roller and everyone would think it was chrome!
If you must brush something on, use a foam tipped brush or foam roller to eliminate brush strokes. You could probably paint a bumper with silver POR15 and a 2 inch roller and everyone would think it was chrome!
#20
High as a kite...
Remember Brasso? The fumes of this stuff were so strong I had to polish the caps out in the garage with the vent fan on...
The chrome had stains on it that washing alone would not remove. Note the 'spare' cap with no center decal... Brasso cleaned it all off effortlessly!
Two of the caps had very light pitting from coastal salt mist, which could not be removed.
I masked the area that I would paint, however Brasso dissolves the masking tape adhesive, so contact with it should be avoided as much as possible.
This stuff was 30 years old but still worked wonders on the chrome (and my brain)...
The chrome had stains on it that washing alone would not remove. Note the 'spare' cap with no center decal... Brasso cleaned it all off effortlessly!
Two of the caps had very light pitting from coastal salt mist, which could not be removed.
I masked the area that I would paint, however Brasso dissolves the masking tape adhesive, so contact with it should be avoided as much as possible.
This stuff was 30 years old but still worked wonders on the chrome (and my brain)...
Last edited by Lady72nRob71; August 1st, 2009 at 09:21 PM.
#21
Rob,
While we're on the subject. Does your spare have a center cap? I'm not sure if they're "spose to" or not. My 69 drop top has one but will only bolt down with the after market hold down with a bolt on the end. I'm not sure [wmachine probably knows] The standard Hook hold down with giant wing nut doesn't seem to work with the center cap on.
Nice work. Brasso. Oh yes I remember it well. If you leave your brass on your uniform when cleaning it with Brasso, it leaves a white power around your brass.
While we're on the subject. Does your spare have a center cap? I'm not sure if they're "spose to" or not. My 69 drop top has one but will only bolt down with the after market hold down with a bolt on the end. I'm not sure [wmachine probably knows] The standard Hook hold down with giant wing nut doesn't seem to work with the center cap on.
Nice work. Brasso. Oh yes I remember it well. If you leave your brass on your uniform when cleaning it with Brasso, it leaves a white power around your brass.
#22
Looking good Rob!
I would use my airbrush to be painting those my own self. Is it me or are things being done a little backwards?
Wheel centers, then wheels, then suspension rebuilding/ refinishing??
Better to look good than to feel good. I did the same, do it when you can.
Kitchen counter work area with tall bar glass, Tequila and Girl Scout cookies within easy reach?????
My hero.
Wait until the engine is in the bathtub full of degreaser.
Do you stand and click the heels of your sparkling red ruby slippers together when chanting Rob?
"The body will stay on the chassis....The body will stay on the chassis...There's no face like chrome....There's no face like chrome"
I would use my airbrush to be painting those my own self. Is it me or are things being done a little backwards?
Wheel centers, then wheels, then suspension rebuilding/ refinishing??
Better to look good than to feel good. I did the same, do it when you can.
Kitchen counter work area with tall bar glass, Tequila and Girl Scout cookies within easy reach?????
My hero.
Wait until the engine is in the bathtub full of degreaser.
Do you stand and click the heels of your sparkling red ruby slippers together when chanting Rob?
"The body will stay on the chassis....The body will stay on the chassis...There's no face like chrome....There's no face like chrome"
Last edited by Bluevista; August 2nd, 2009 at 05:27 AM. Reason: fear and ignorance
#23
We used never dull...I think that's what it was called anyhow. Blue can looked like wadded cotton. Took forever but worked well, just a fine glaze to wipe. Used to use it on chrome that had tiny pits and minor imperfections.
#24
Duh, never mind
Rob,
While we're on the subject. Does your spare have a center cap? I'm not sure if they're "spose to" or not. My 69 drop top has one but will only bolt down with the after market hold down with a bolt on the end. I'm not sure [wmachine probably knows] The standard Hook hold down with giant wing nut doesn't seem to work with the center cap on.
Nice work. Brasso. Oh yes I remember it well. If you leave your brass on your uniform when cleaning it with Brasso, it leaves a white power around your brass.
While we're on the subject. Does your spare have a center cap? I'm not sure if they're "spose to" or not. My 69 drop top has one but will only bolt down with the after market hold down with a bolt on the end. I'm not sure [wmachine probably knows] The standard Hook hold down with giant wing nut doesn't seem to work with the center cap on.
Nice work. Brasso. Oh yes I remember it well. If you leave your brass on your uniform when cleaning it with Brasso, it leaves a white power around your brass.
I still think I like the wrong way [2nd pic] as opposed to the "correct way" like the little sticker says.
#26
The master tub will be the perfect size... I used it only 6 times in 14 years... It costs me 5 bucks in water just to fill it up once it seems.
I wasn't coordinated enough to do that...
#28
Maybe so they would not have to make another type of label??
I looked in the assy manual and there is only the std wheel label and the one I have.
The SSI method holds the SSIII okay and I have the big upholstered cover that goes on the spare. I do not even think the cover was used for the styled wheels, so looks like I am a rebel after all...
I looked in the assy manual and there is only the std wheel label and the one I have.
The SSI method holds the SSIII okay and I have the big upholstered cover that goes on the spare. I do not even think the cover was used for the styled wheels, so looks like I am a rebel after all...
#29
My spare tire goes in a hole inside.
[QUOTE=Lady72nRob71;97626]Yes, it is a little, but if it was not for my earlier unexpected tire failure https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...e-dilemma.html, the wheels would have been last. Since i am getting new tires, might as well fix the wheels up while the tires are off...
I missed that one, graduation party season.
Fix the wheels when the tires are off? I guess it would be tough to paint or powdercoat the inside with the tires on? Remove the valve stem core and use a very long curvy handled tiny paintbrush.
I do whatever needs done and catches my fancy at the moment. I was goofing with my stainless making sure it will fit and how to go about attaching it once painted. Have to pull the fender bottom way out, glad I made a dry run or I would have been freaked out figuring it out with paint to scratch.
Brasso, what a wonderful bouquet it emits, ever change nasty ammoniaized wet baby diapers?? Clears your sinuses in nothing flat.
I use Simicrome polish for chrome. I bought a can and you don't use much. I will bequeath the remainder in my will to whoever outlives me, start getting in line.
[QUOTE=Lady72nRob71;97626]Yes, it is a little, but if it was not for my earlier unexpected tire failure https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...e-dilemma.html, the wheels would have been last. Since i am getting new tires, might as well fix the wheels up while the tires are off...
I missed that one, graduation party season.
Fix the wheels when the tires are off? I guess it would be tough to paint or powdercoat the inside with the tires on? Remove the valve stem core and use a very long curvy handled tiny paintbrush.
I do whatever needs done and catches my fancy at the moment. I was goofing with my stainless making sure it will fit and how to go about attaching it once painted. Have to pull the fender bottom way out, glad I made a dry run or I would have been freaked out figuring it out with paint to scratch.
Brasso, what a wonderful bouquet it emits, ever change nasty ammoniaized wet baby diapers?? Clears your sinuses in nothing flat.
I use Simicrome polish for chrome. I bought a can and you don't use much. I will bequeath the remainder in my will to whoever outlives me, start getting in line.
Last edited by Bluevista; August 2nd, 2009 at 10:09 AM.
#30
Time consuming!
So it took over 3 hours to mask the caps and carefully sand them...
The masking was most important - excellent advice.
600 grit sandpaper clogged too fast with the old paint and was hardly scuffing the chrome, so I used scotchbrite instead. I used the sandpaper to smooth where the chrome was damaged.
After hand and finger numbing experience, I remove the dirty masking tape and washed them - they look nice now. Hopefully paint will stick to them, as the finish is still very smooth...
The masking was most important - excellent advice.
600 grit sandpaper clogged too fast with the old paint and was hardly scuffing the chrome, so I used scotchbrite instead. I used the sandpaper to smooth where the chrome was damaged.
After hand and finger numbing experience, I remove the dirty masking tape and washed them - they look nice now. Hopefully paint will stick to them, as the finish is still very smooth...
#32
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Can't tell from NOS - great job
Jamesbo, mine shows SS1 too and it's a 72. I think GM just kept the same decal for the sake of convenience for anything that was SS. You might have noticed on your 69 (not sure) but on 70-72 the tire iron is held in a set of clips, not with the jack base. That's one of the differences. I believe the little nut assembly was to place the tire in a "presentation" fashion. It is a classy looking wheel. Mine is not tied down right now, but it's also not going anywhere...
I'm really impressed with what I learned from this thread. I didn't know the center caps were chrome all over and just painted inserts. So I went down to the car and pulled out one of the NOS caps I bought (in the time of the dinosaurs). I was really surprised to see that the argent paint wasn't done uniformly. BTW there is no paint at the bottom of the trim (one of your circled areas) it's all chrome.
I have already bought lower control arms, axle braces, 1" sway bar and 3:42 gears for my car to upgrade the suspension to FE2. I believe I just need the right posi carrier to finish it off. So, I'll be watching your next project post with great interest.
So it took over 3 hours to mask the caps and carefully sand them...
The masking was most important - excellent advice.
600 grit sandpaper clogged too fast with the old paint and was hardly scuffing the chrome, so I used scotchbrite instead. I used the sandpaper to smooth where the chrome was damaged.
After hand and finger numbing experience, I remove the dirty masking tape and washed them - they look nice now. Hopefully paint will stick to them, as the finish is still very smooth...
The masking was most important - excellent advice.
600 grit sandpaper clogged too fast with the old paint and was hardly scuffing the chrome, so I used scotchbrite instead. I used the sandpaper to smooth where the chrome was damaged.
After hand and finger numbing experience, I remove the dirty masking tape and washed them - they look nice now. Hopefully paint will stick to them, as the finish is still very smooth...
I have already bought lower control arms, axle braces, 1" sway bar and 3:42 gears for my car to upgrade the suspension to FE2. I believe I just need the right posi carrier to finish it off. So, I'll be watching your next project post with great interest.
#33
That looks like that same Argent that you use on the grills. What is it? I got some in the garage. I'll go look so hold on a minute, smoke 'em if you got 'em............................................... .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................
Okay, I'm back,
It's Krylon Metallics 1403 Dull Aluminum. Pretty tough to match that overspray with a basic street rattle can.
You can cut a round hole in a piece of poster board carboard and use it as a mask to get the spray pattern smaller.
Test and practice on something else first, just go out late and tag stuff in the neighborhood, just don't spray "Rob the dude with the '72 442 convertible was here, BTW it's yellow".
Again, an airbrush and some argent model paint would be my perferred method of attack, but a spray can should do the trick. You can use a spare tire for an air source if you don't have a compressor for the airbrush or Propel cans.
I can see it now, all four tires and the spare going flat while trying to paint those things.
Okay, I'm back,
It's Krylon Metallics 1403 Dull Aluminum. Pretty tough to match that overspray with a basic street rattle can.
You can cut a round hole in a piece of poster board carboard and use it as a mask to get the spray pattern smaller.
Test and practice on something else first, just go out late and tag stuff in the neighborhood, just don't spray "Rob the dude with the '72 442 convertible was here, BTW it's yellow".
Again, an airbrush and some argent model paint would be my perferred method of attack, but a spray can should do the trick. You can use a spare tire for an air source if you don't have a compressor for the airbrush or Propel cans.
I can see it now, all four tires and the spare going flat while trying to paint those things.
Last edited by Bluevista; August 2nd, 2009 at 06:24 PM. Reason: speling
#35
I'm really impressed with what I learned from this thread. I didn't know the center caps were chrome all over and just painted inserts. So I went down to the car and pulled out one of the NOS caps I bought (in the time of the dinosaurs). I was really surprised to see that the argent paint wasn't done uniformly. BTW there is no paint at the bottom of the trim (one of your circled areas) it's all chrome.
Sound like you might know how the factory masked 'em! I am gonna use masking tape and hopefully use thin enough coats to not build up a the tape's edges...
Last edited by Lady72nRob71; August 3rd, 2009 at 09:25 AM.
#36
What you can do, if you have extreme patience!!, is "over mask" them. What I mean is put the tape on so the edges cover more of the insert area (ie--the tape edges are covering part of the insert area....maybe 1/4" in or so). Then you have to go back and slowly roll the edges up or far enough back so the whole highlight area is exposed. But...just around the edges the tape will be sort of curled up and hanging over the edges. This should allow you to create a "soft edge"....the paint won't directly land around the edges since you won't have a straight shot at it, yet some will find it's way under the curled up tape edges and land on the chrome.
Net result is the paint will sort of thin out at the edges of the highlight area.
Only problems are pulling up a consistent rolled edge on the tape and.....YOU HAVE TO DO THIS 5 TIMES ON EACH CAP X 4 or 5 CAPS!!! Don't lose your patience as you get about half way through the tape rollback process...otherwise half the caps might not have very even edges.
Good luck.
Net result is the paint will sort of thin out at the edges of the highlight area.
Only problems are pulling up a consistent rolled edge on the tape and.....YOU HAVE TO DO THIS 5 TIMES ON EACH CAP X 4 or 5 CAPS!!! Don't lose your patience as you get about half way through the tape rollback process...otherwise half the caps might not have very even edges.
Good luck.
#37
Success!
Finally got time this weekend to finish these caps.
It took 20 minutes a cap just to mask them, as I wanted to follow the factory paint lines as best possible.
Holding the caps on a 2x3 scrap, I lightly sprayed them with primer, allowing that to dry about 20-30 minutes.
I repeated the process with the Charcoal grey paint and let them dry a couple hours. I used 2-3 VERY thin coats, just enough to cover the primer.
I removed the masking tape while the paint was still a little tacky and not completely stuck to the tape.
Although they will not pass for NOS parts, I think they came out pretty darn nice, especially for no cost.
Only thing I do not like is that the paint color is lighter and glossier than I the original. However it looks darker than Allan's NOS cap...
It took 20 minutes a cap just to mask them, as I wanted to follow the factory paint lines as best possible.
Holding the caps on a 2x3 scrap, I lightly sprayed them with primer, allowing that to dry about 20-30 minutes.
I repeated the process with the Charcoal grey paint and let them dry a couple hours. I used 2-3 VERY thin coats, just enough to cover the primer.
I removed the masking tape while the paint was still a little tacky and not completely stuck to the tape.
Although they will not pass for NOS parts, I think they came out pretty darn nice, especially for no cost.
Only thing I do not like is that the paint color is lighter and glossier than I the original. However it looks darker than Allan's NOS cap...
Last edited by Lady72nRob71; August 10th, 2009 at 06:01 AM.
#38
Those look excellent Rob, nice pics too. My wife gives me dirty looks every time I tell her I want rally wheels, "only after those tires are worn out" she says. I have to go do my nightly one wheel brake-torque burnout and tire rotation.
Does does your center cap hand puppet do kid birthday parties?
Does does your center cap hand puppet do kid birthday parties?
#39
[quote=Bluevista;99670]Those look excellent Rob, nice pics too. quote]
Thanks... I think they will do. If I never even noticed the paint until now, noone else will tell they are a color shade off...
Sounds like you got the idea I would do...
At least she gives some light at the end of the tunnel.
Yep. I also do great knock, knock jokes...
Thanks... I think they will do. If I never even noticed the paint until now, noone else will tell they are a color shade off...
At least she gives some light at the end of the tunnel.
Yep. I also do great knock, knock jokes...