replacing idler arm on my 55.
June 13th, 2012, 06:52 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 7
replacing idler arm on my 55.
could someone give me some pointers on replacing the idler arm assembly on my 1955 98 coupe? Is this a terribly difficult part to replace? I jacked the car up and put jackstands under it, moved the passengers side tire side to side and could see the idler arm moving and clunking. Im sure the whole front end could use a rebuild, but I think this arm should be replaced soon! Do I need a balljoint separator or "pickle fork" to remove it from the drag link? If anybody has done this send me some pointers, I would greatly appreciate it. thanks
July 4th, 2012, 06:43 PM
#2
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 214
Is the excessive play where the idler meets the drag link, or on the idler ball joint? The drag links on these cars are funky and can be "adjusted". If its loose at the drag link, you can try and tighten it up. This might be really hard to explain without images, but I am going to try...
On the end of your drag link, you should see a slot that looks like a giant standard screwdriver fits inside of it. Because that is exactly what it is; a big threaded plug. A cotter pin runs through that slot to lock it in place. So to adjust this:
-Remove the cotter pin.
-If you have a drag link tool awesome. It is like a big standard screwdriver bit that fits a ratchet. (Google it and you should see what I'm talking about) If not, I just got by using a big screwdriver and put a crescent wrench on it for leverage. Turn the slotted plug IN until it stops. back it out 1/4-3/4 turn (make the slot lines up to reinstall cotter pin)
-Install cotter pin.
Pretty simple and goes a long way if the internals of the drag link aren't shot. If it doesn't help, there is a little bit more involved in removing that idler arm. DO NOT BEAT ON IT WITH A PICKLE FORK AT THE DRAG LINK. It has a ball at the end of it that gets kind of clamped by the internals of the drag link (previous procedure tightened these). Think of it as putting your fist in a vise and closing the jaws on your wrist... You'd have to open the jaws to get your fist out! Good luck.
On the end of your drag link, you should see a slot that looks like a giant standard screwdriver fits inside of it. Because that is exactly what it is; a big threaded plug. A cotter pin runs through that slot to lock it in place. So to adjust this:
-Remove the cotter pin.
-If you have a drag link tool awesome. It is like a big standard screwdriver bit that fits a ratchet. (Google it and you should see what I'm talking about) If not, I just got by using a big screwdriver and put a crescent wrench on it for leverage. Turn the slotted plug IN until it stops. back it out 1/4-3/4 turn (make the slot lines up to reinstall cotter pin)
-Install cotter pin.
Pretty simple and goes a long way if the internals of the drag link aren't shot. If it doesn't help, there is a little bit more involved in removing that idler arm. DO NOT BEAT ON IT WITH A PICKLE FORK AT THE DRAG LINK. It has a ball at the end of it that gets kind of clamped by the internals of the drag link (previous procedure tightened these). Think of it as putting your fist in a vise and closing the jaws on your wrist... You'd have to open the jaws to get your fist out! Good luck.
July 10th, 2012, 07:47 PM
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 7
excellent description, I followed exactly what you described and it took out the "slop" at the draglink. It actually feels like the steering has tightened up overall. Thanks for helping me with my question, hopefully if anybody does a search on this they will find it. A sticky on the topic may not be a bad idea. thanks again!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
costpenn
General Discussion
3
August 11th, 2014 07:34 PM
oldzy
General Questions
5
December 19th, 2011 06:43 AM
