"HELP ME" Im replacing my suspension and i have purchase new inner tie rod from Autozone and i can't get bolt to screw on once i put inner tie rod in center link hole enough to clear hole to get cotter pin in. Ive been to a couple other part stores around town and im have same luck. Bolt thread end is same size.

As you see i just up dated info and i found out they where different sizes. The new one, which is to big came from Autozone.

 

I'm sorry, but your description of the problem is not very clear. Are you saying that once you put the taper stud into the center link, you can't get the nut started? Or are you talking about threading the tie rod end into the coupler to the outer tie rod end? I really don't know what "bolt" you are talking about.

Edit: OK, sorry, the photos didn't load the first time I looked at your thread for some reason. I assume you are saying that the nut doesn't thread far enough onto the tie rod stud to insert the cotter pin. First, did you compare the new tie rod end to the old one? Second, have you verified that the hole in the center link is clean on the inside and that there isn't some debris preventing the tapered stud from fully seating? Finally, did you torque the nut per spec?

By the way, here's your own dedicated thread. What year/model are you working on?

 

You should not have greased it 'til AFTER it's tight. I doubt the grease is stopping it, though. The grease might be causing it to spin before it will tighten.

 

It looks very much to me as though the stud is long enough, but is not inserted far enough into the taper. You can tell because the rubber boot is not compressed yet.

As you are installing a new tie rod end into your old centerlink, there should be no possibility that you are installing it backwards into the hole.

That, to me, leaves two possibilities:

1. There is, as Joe suggested, some sort of dirt, rust, or other debris in the taper.
   It must be perfectly clean, which also means grease-free.
2. The stud is the wrong diameter.
   Compare it closely with the original. Also, test-fit the original to see whether it goes in all the way.

- Eric

 

I had not realized the tie rod end was greased. Here's the real problem. The grease is both making it very easy for the ball to spin in the tie rod end housing and is making it more difficult to compress the boot. Together, these are allowing the tie rod stud to spin in the center link rather than the nut tightening. I would suggest that you disassemble, remove the boot, clean out the grease, reassemble, and squeeze the tie rod and center link together to seat the stud in the taper while you tighten the nut. You should also look closely at the stud to be sure there isn't a burr at the cotter pin hole or a damage thread that is making the nut harder to turn. The boot needs to be compressed much more that the amount shown in the photos.

 

I noticed it was greased and mentioned it in my post. Yes I think the joint is probably spinning, too.

 

That's what tipped me off...

 

i updated post, i found out the old one is smaller

 

This may be a dumb question, but what units are you measuring in?

- Eric

 

The better question is, what exactly are you measuring? I'm assuming the first photo is the old tie rod end? The negative number on the caliper confuses me. What exactly are you measuring? The thread size is irrelevant so long as the nut matches it. What matters is the taper. You need to measure the top diameter, bottom diameter, and taper length of the stud portion. THAT'S what affects fitment.

 

I'm not sure what year model your working on, however there was a change in the tie rods and center links between 70 and 71 for cutlass 442 models. Maybe you have mismatched parts?

 

There's a thought! Later tie rods ARE larger, at the sleeve...that's true. Maybe at the stud end also.

 

You are correct that the 1971-72 inner tie rod ends carry a different part number from the earlier ones, however the center link is the same P/N for 1968-72, so that means that the taper is the same on the inner tie rod ends also.

 

It looks to me like
1) you have an 11mm [7/16"] and a 13mm [1/2"] threaded part
2) you need to learn to ZERO YOUR INSTRUMENT before taking a measurement. showing a stud measuring "minus 6.4mm" is not very helpful.

Test fit the originals, make sure it's still OK
compare the TAPER measurements- small and large end
run the nuts down the threads by hand before assembly and fix as required
Don't bang the stud threads and muff them up while installing.
Hand start the nut
Use an IMPACT tool as required. An impact will do things that slow hand turning will never do. That's one of the reasons the are so popular.

 

Thanks for all the reply. The prolbem was most local inner tie rod, just didn't fit. There was even a case of them being discontinued. I order set from Yearone and it was a simple install.

 

My OUTER TIE ROD END is giving me the same exact problem. The old tie rod is smaller at the shaft underneath the threaded part on the stud. I've bought parts everywhere locally and online and have been unable to find the part that fits smh.

 

I just replaced both the inner & outer tie-rod ends on my '71 CS. The '71 & '72 CS use the same tie-rod ends (based upon information from Rock Auto).

I don't know what to tell you. I doubt anyone replaced the center-link on your car to a different size, but anything is possible. My tie-rod ends fit perfectly - Moog.