Hey guys, trying to replace the original shocks on my 83' delta 88 sedan. Unfortunately (and expected) the front shocks aren't coming along. Turning the nut is just spinning the shaft. I'm not really sure where to take this, as cutting the shaft looks very difficult as there is a lot in the way without taking the knuckle apart/separating ball joints.(really want to avoid!)
Was wondering if anybody had any good ideas for this job that were familiar with these old school b-body setups. Thanks!

 

Put a socket that fits on the nut with a long extension and bend it back and forth until it breaks.Preferably 1/2 inch drive.

 

as above
or split the nut w a cold chisel or sawsall
or use an impact gun air or electric
or if you can grab the shaft with vice grips (that will ruin the shaft)

 

Or you can grip the top of the shaft with a pliers or visegrips and use an end wrench.

 

The very end of the shaft has two flat surfaces just get the proper size open end wrench on them to keep the shaft from turning. I think it's 5 sixteenths or 3 eighths. Turn the nut with a box end wrench.

 

X2, but i use a 1/2 ratchet and bend it under the fender well.

 

Vise Grips always worked for me.

 

Ill is in the rust belt ,vise grips and open end wrenches don't work,breaking off is the easiest fastest way.

 

There are sockets made specifically to fit the shape on the top of the shaft. You put a box or open end wrench on the nut and use the socket to turn the shaft till the nut is at the top.

 

It's amazing what you can do with a 4 1/2" grinder and some cut-off blades.

 

I've had those just chew the end up and spit it out.
They're great when the nut is willing to come off, but not very helpful if it's really stuck.

- Eric

 

I've had a shock absorber nut tool for decades. It works about half the time. The rest of the time I have to use a cutting torch.

 

Update: Was able to get the shock out using the "break off the shaft" method. Worked like a charm! Thanks for the suggestions. Will be doing the rear shocks hopefully this weekend. Will probably be back for some more suggestions if I run into some trouble. Thanks guys!

 

Wood, have you looked at those top two bolts/per shock? You are going to want to soak them well with penerating oil. If its like an A body you'll wanna do that. Those cage nuts are lots of fun.

When you're done, you'll wonder weather the front was easier than the back.

 

Don- I did get some penetrating oil on those top bolts. I'm a bit worried as two of those bottom cage nuts broke while doing the front shocks. Sawzall took care of those pretty easily, however it looks next to impossible to get a sawzall up there in the back to cut off a bolt if a retainer breaks. Hoping for the best, expecting the worst!

 

Wood, sounds like you need to keep a hammer and chisal near by.

Its not the end of the world but you will mutter a few cuss words.

EDIT...sorry for the confusion. Orange, Joe and Randy are right in their comments referring to the upper rear shock mounts.

 

I make this tool, its works fine if the nut is not rusted stuck.

the other side i think i cut the shaft between the Springs to get it out. Carefully to not harm the Springs.

 

Well, I tried doing the rear shocks. Looks like the two cage nuts on each side just spun on top. There's no way I could dream of getting a sawzall all the way up there to cut the bolts out. It looks too cramped to be able to fit a right angle grinder up there and even if I had access to a torch, it looks a little too close to the fuel lines to be a good idea. Kind of stumped on this one

 

I thought the rear shocks were just a nut and bolt and not a cage nut? Most I have done were nut and bolt configuration.

 

^^^This. You need to get an open end wrench on the nut on the topside. Wear goggles - you'll get a lot of crap in your face.

 

x2 - did you try to feel up above the spring mount to see if there are regular nuts up there? If so, you can get an open end wrench on them.

 

Ditto on the cutting torch, if you have access to one.
Stick the cutting head between the spring coils and cut the shaft in two.

 

On the front shocks, if you can get a torch between the spring coils you can get vise grips between them and hold the ram from spinning allowing you to take the nut off the top.

 

I've tried this and unfortunately the hardened shaft of the shock usually just spins in the Vice Grips.

 

I think the worn and mushroomed teeth on the jaws of my vise grips has more surface area than normal so that may be why it worked for me.

 

Said the guy from the land of no rust?? It just SO does not work that way in MI !!


"Ill is in the rust belt ,vise grips and open end wrenches don't work,breaking off is the easiest fastest way. "
=================
agreed


Rear top- Never try to loosen them.
Using your best SIX pt tool, go CW and hope they twist off.

if not, back to the methods above.

 

Update: after hitting my head five times on the pointy part of the 7.5 10 bolt casting, I was able to get the top bolts of the rear shocks broken loose and apart. You guys are correct, they were bolts and regular nuts. However the nuts on top were barely recognizable due to rust/scale.
Talk about blown shocks. These were definitely original, they still had that metallic blue paint on some parts, same as the spring.
Too bad, with the new shocks it doesn't feel like "the boat" as everyone liked to call it

Thanks for the advice guys, I REALLY appreciate it.

 

put on good impact wrench and keep sinning useally works for me
sometimes you can get visegrip through the springs

 

Keep what?
:-)

 

Well, you know, it's so hard to stop once you really get started...

- Eric

 

Now go forth, young man, and spin no more!
Spinners, REPENT-ah!

 

I see the Light!

I SEE THE LIGHT!!!

 

Locking pliers on top and wedged against something is the easiest way to do it.

 

How do you plan on unscrewing the nut over the boogered threads with the locking pliers?

 

Didn't damage the thread at all.