Hey all,

I was trying to trace a wiring problem on my 64 Cutlass and removed the carpet. Good news, the headlights work, bad news, there is a hole in the floor covered with flashing and wood screws...I know that I am going to need some new floor panels, but I'm not sure what the part is beneath them. Is it a cross member or a floor brace? It is right behind the seat mounting point. Thanks in advance for any advice!

-Mike

 

As you've correctly figured out, with the rusted floor panel peeled back, you're seeing the inside of the floor brace. If it's solid, just clean up the loose rust and coat it with POR or your preferred rust inhibitor before welding a replacement panel in place. I don't see daylight through the brace, so perhaps it's good enough. Poke it with a screwdriver to look for soft spots.

 

I would suggest looking up my thread titled " update progress on 64 Post'. It located under Major Projects and.... There are others in this Club in the same section that are working on these early A-Bodys. I would get a spot weld remover and carefully start looking for the spot weld that they welding the floor pans to the braces. Usually you need sand down the area with 80 grit and look for the spot welds. Then you may determine the condition of the braces. I cannot remember which one but one of them, you will have to remove the body to install a new one.

 

Unfortunately, it looks like there are a few holes in it and it is missing the rear flange. Is it possibly to cut away more of the floor to avoid taking the body off the chassis? I only ask because my garage isn't that big and I have limited tools. Thanks for the quick replies!

 

Rob,

I checked out your thread, your car is sweet! I don't have the budget to do the full rebuild like yours though. I'm just trying to make it safe so I don't end up driving the Flintstone mobile. How solid and straight the body looked was pretty much why I bought this car and I don't want to cut it up more than I have to, but safety is number 1. This damage was hidden by carpet and undercoating.

 

Mike I hear yeah, I just meant to say there is a lot of info on the thread. Look up Napoleon Solo's thread too. One of the braces as mentioned you may have to remove the body. I had too anyway. It maybe the center one that the seat belts bolt too.I can look later today. An expensive tool you can buy to remove under coating is called a "needle scaler" if you have an air compressor. I bought mine at Harbor freight tools. Make sure what your working on is cool, not hot and the needle scaler will actually start chipping the undercoating off. See in the picture, I used the needle scaler between the floor and trunk and what was left of the rear wheel wells. Another idea is hopefully the braces towards the rocker panels are good and you can cut the bad off, cut sections and weld in the new pieces to the old.

 

OK, I'll check his thread out too and look into getting a needle scaler since I already have a compressor.

 

Rob has sound advice, if your looking for low budget ideas look at my thread
" kids helping with project" I used old fenders and doors to build my quarters and I have a few flaws that could have been prevented, but we rushed through it as well as we knew that the side trim would hide it. If we would have spent more time very possible to get great results

If the brace is sound there have been a few guys that glue in patches to get by I like the glue/ bond is said to be stronger then a weld as it doesn't weaken the metal around it. It all comes down to personal preference I guess.

Good luck

 

mike I meant to say IN-EXPENSIVE, I think 20-30 dollars tops and a new needles are like 5 dollars for a replacement set. And Oldstata's thread is another great one and his idea of patching the braces in with that glue they use now is unreal, no welding. Your on the right track. I did step up and spend some coin on this build but not even close to what soneone would spend to have this car build for them...."labor of love"

 

To clarify glue/ bond patch floor panels in. the brace would need metal/welding patches or replaced if it is bad

I think the glue ran me 80-100 bucks a tube as its a two part and needed a special gun but it was like 30 bucks I think