I need new A-arm bushings for my 74 Cutlass. My mechanic suggested I buy new entire new A-Arms as he has had issues with old A-Arms bending or getting damaged while pressing in the bushings. I can’t find anyone who sells the stock type and the tubular ones are way too pricey.


I searched this site and could not find where anyone had any issues with A-Arms getting damaged while pressing in bushings. Are my mechanics worries well founded?


Is there a source for new stock type A-Arms?

 

No. Sounds more like he just doesn't want to do the work. Unless this mechanic is a ham-fisted gorilla, there should not be damage to the control arms. Is it possible to damage them during bushing replacement? Absolutely if the person performing the R&R is not careful or does not follow the proper procedure. Of course, this is the case with anything. As an example, the lower control arms require a spacer to be temporarily inserted between the legs when each bushing is installed to prevent bending the ears of the arm. There is a Kent Moore tool for this but I just use a section of angle iron cut to the correct length.

More likely, your "mechanic" is really just a parts-replacer. This is unfortunately all to common these days.

 

X2 what Joe said.
Old A arms = USA Steel = Safe
New A arms = chineasium = gamble

 

Changing the bushings is very easy and 99% of the time its problem free. I would also do ball joints since your already there. Its not a hard do it yourself type of job either.

 

A couple of things to consider:


1. You will need a very good vise or a ball joint press


2. As Joe stated, you will need to support the control arm when the bushings are being pressed in/out. I use a cast iron pipe nipple cut lengthwise, and use that piece to fit snugly between the arm holes.


3. I also recommend freezing the bushings for a few hours before the install.


4. Make sure the holes are clean, and use a small amount of Anti Seeze to lube them when doing the pressing.


5. The bushings must go in strait. That is the trickiest part, especially on the oval bushings.


6. When the bushing is being pressed out, it will make a loud "pop", so be ready for it...

 

Thanks for all the good information. I believe I'll skip him for this job and go to a specialty shop instead. I too was getting the feeling he either didn't want to do it or isn't feeling confident about doing it.

I would like to invest in a press (Among other things.) so that I can start doing things like this myself. I would also need to make room for it, and space is at a premium in my garage at this time. :-)

 

You don't need a press, a good vise, a bit of creativity, and a shop hammer will install the bushings.

 

I went to Autozone and utilized the loan a tool program no problem , I also used the Energy Urethane bushing for replacement I have not noticed any ride harshness
I am sure you can tackle the replacement .

 

You can build fine furniture with a rock as a hammer, but why would you?

Your method will absolutely not work with ball joints.

The hammer method is dicey as you may do damage.

 

Most ball joints you buy today will be .008" oversize as the mfg. assumes you replaced the std with .004" over some time in the past. If this is the first replacement, try to get some .004" oversize so they press easier and leave room for a second replacement. I use blue Loctite not anti-seize since it lubricates before curing but then helps hold the part in place afterwards. I have removed bushings after wire brushing off rust and soaking with rust penetrant like the Mopar spray, using a blunt air chisel.

 

My first set an old timer showed me how to do with a 3 lb maul and large impact sockets with the proper support to avoid collapse. It worked. Kind of the hand grenade approach but it worked.
Now a days I do press method. I too freeze the bushings then gently heat the A arm holes with propane. They go in straight with little resistance. As mentioned clean the holes with scotch brite check for any damage before installing the new units. Make sure they are good and tight. If this has been numerous times to these A arms the A arm holes may need staking or complete A arm replacement if warn beyond service.
Dont forget to tighten the suspension down after the car is on the ground with full weight bearing on the suspension.

 

I wasn't quite ready to take on the job myself so I had a "more mechanically inclined than me" friend come over and look it over with me. Unfortunately we couldn't do the job because someone had previously welded the nuts on the end of the bolts that go through the bushings. I'll get the bolts and we are going to have a try at it. We're going to rent the tool or use the AutoZone loan a tool program.

We did get the chance to install the aftermarket sway bars I picked up. What a difference they made...... I'll make another post about those.

 

Wow, you'd think a bit of Lock-Tite would be a much simpler approach.

 

I know right? We were trying to come up with a reason for it but couldn't. Baffling.