Hi All,

Just thought I would add a post here as I search for my next Cutlass. I really prefer it to be in the 1969-1972 range and my #1 criteria is for it to be as solid as possible. I just sold my '72 Cutlass S because of rust so I don't want to be back in the same situation. It can have issues and only ever be driver quality, since unfortunately I can only be a buyer in the $5-6K range. My thing is honest original cars...doesn't have to be the biggest engine or the best color combo, just solid and turn-key if possible.

I was able to locate a '69 Cutlass S that was quite solid and only 44,000 original miles, but the seller is standing firm at $6K and my latest offer was just below that price. It really will need new front seat upholstery and some minor surface rust POR treatment/repainting on the very bottoms of the fenders and doors. Also the paint needs at minimum a deep polish and/or respray which I wouldn't be able to swing. Based on that do you think I should try to raise my offer? Here's a look...would really value the group's feedback!

http://s1237.photobucket.com/albums/...cpZZ1QQtppZZ20

Thanks,
Bill

 

Bill - that car looks pretty solid to me. The body seams look nice, looks mostly original, minimal rust. If the mileage can be verified and the motor is numbers matching (and there is nothing in the pics to suggest otherwise), I think 6K is reasonable. Also, if the seller has any paperwork on the car and knows any history on the car, more reasons to seriously consider upping the ante. As a buyer, I would like to get it for 5K but you might look a while to find another with low miles in that kind of original condition. I just checked the market prices at http://www.collectorcarmarket.com/ and for a #3 condition 69 CS, it's $5975 so I think somebody has been doing their homework. If you're happy with a 69 and good with the color combination, I don't think you could do much better for less. Good Luck and let us know how it turns out!

 

I agree, heck the front fenders and trim alone on that car are worth over 1k - looks like its in nice condition

 

Looked at the pics again and noticed it's an 'S' model and not a Supreme. So, that's gonna knock it down some but still, overall, I think a solid car at a good price. Offer him $5700 and take him to dinner.

 

How 'bout this little number. 1970 Cutlass S with a CUSTOM paint job. I'd let her go for $2,000.

 

The very bottom of the fenders appear to be needing patches? Hard to tell from the photo's? Also concider that its a 350 2bbl, with manual drum brakes. That would play into its value, and lessen it some.

 

Guys thanks. I am so on the fence with this one. I offered the seller $5,500 and he held firm (citing a family decision).

@Tony - I noticed the manual brakes...not a big fan but would hopefully be able to upgrade them at some point. I also have some concern about the lower fenders. Then again, in my price range I haven't seen a lot better.

Do you guys think the paint could get away with just a deep polish? I can't figure out if it's sable or glade green?

I feel the money I offered was fair, but they think $6k is below market on the car. Can't say I agree and the prices above seem at market or above.

Thanks for the replies!
Bill

Ps: Lou did you buy that green one?

 

Yeah, I did. STILL don't know what I was thinking. Believe it or not, the body is in real good shape.

 

Congratulations! Heck, the colors aside, its still a '70 Cutlass for just $2K!

 

The low mileage cars are always going to bring the money. You can tastefully add options later but you can't roll back the odometer. How many 44K orig mile 1969 anythings are out there? If you appreciate originality and the car came with manual drum brakes, then why change it unless you plan to drive the car every day? If your emphasis is on options, then this might not be the car for you. But, if you watch any of the car auctions, the original, unmolested, low mileage cars are the ones getting the most attention.

 

Scott,

I agree with you and I've upped my offer. Wish me luck!

Bill

 

Hey guys, I'm glad I saw this thread. I purchased my Cutty about 8 months back for 9k ("appraised" at 13k). It was in great condition. Since then I've put about 5k into it, including 3" hooker headers with new exhaust and dual Flomaster 40's. New springs in the back, new shocks, new bushings in the stearing arms, electronic ignition, etc.

I've only put 23 miles on it since then. I know this is a specialty market, but as it turns out, I obviously don't drive it as I thought I would. I'd like to get at least 12k out of it, but I'm not sure how to go about that. Using the link I saw about, it nets out at about 16k.

Here's the thing - I know people are "purists" about their Cutty's - but I was not comfortable with the old analog instruments... There was no alternator indication or oil pressure other than the "oh crap!" lights, no RPM, and no temp. I installed all new digital senders and a control unit to drive new digital display instrument panels, which were built to perfectly fit into the old instrument panels. You can't really tell the difference until you crank 'er up and see an (awesome) digital display (complete with dimmer I put where the cigarette lighter used to be.

It's a simply beautiful car, but I would like some honest guidance on how to go about selling her. Part of me just wants to get 10k out of it an move on (i've got a new baby, so I won't be working on it anytime soon) but part of me wants to hold out for the right buyer who will appreciate the car.

What do you guys think? Honestly, I totally suck at selling cars, and would rather have a tetnus shot than stand around with people kicking tires telling "back seat drive-in" stories.

Any guidance here?
t

 

@Thor - Put it on ebay and see what you can get for it. Set the reserve at $10k if that's your number and see what the market bears.

 

IMHO, a car is only worth what someone will write a check for. I hope the owner can verify those miles! With what it costs to rebuild a car these days you can easily surpass what the real value is. I would keep looking, as anything you buy in that price range will easily take an instant $2k hit on your bank account, over and above what you pay for it!

 

Its hard to tell in pics but if its as nice as it looks body wise I would say he is selling it too low. Almost anyone can do mechanical work but body work done right is very expensive. If you find a nice clean rust free body you can easily knock 5000-7000 off what you would spend on body work.

 

"cutty"
"digital display unit"
im gonna be sick :-(

 

I don't care how you refer to your car. You'll notice I didn't ask. What I did was ask advice about the car I have, and what've I've done to it. If you don't like it, then good for you. But there's no need to waste space here if you are not going to contribute something.

 

Thor, any pics of the car?

 

Hey Fummins - I'm glad you asked - I've been meaning to post them

Here's some of the new Flowmaster 3" exhaust and 2 FM40 and Hooker Headers:
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.314227671975536.76348.100001649181378&type= 3

Here's some of the body, including new springs in the back:
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.330882796976690.80219.100001649181378&type= 1

Here are the new instruments: While some have offered [unrequested] opinions regarding instrumentation, with a car like this I think it is critical to ensure one is aware of engine conditions at all times. The "oh crap" temp and oil sensors that were there are basically worthless. As you can tell, I kind of know what I'm doing when it comes to electronics, so having RPM, oil, water, MPH, gear indication, and accurate fuel levels that work as well as these do is a definite bonus:
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.330885173643119.80222.100001649181378&type= 1

Also, here's a video that show the instruments and "hidden" audio components (along with my fuzzy 10-sided dice )
https://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=314108805320756

Thanks!!

 

P.S. I was speaking at the Geneva School of Engineering, and figured I'd stop by the 82nd International Motor Show - here's some pics for those interested:
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...9181378&type=3

 

Looks great Thor, actually not a bad idea. There is no wrong or right imo, your work looks clean. Well done.