Andy

Was there ever a factory 68 442 with the flat hood as an option versus the standard bulged hood. Looking at a 68 convertible, vin and all checks out as a 442 but has flat hood, owner adamant it came that way..Any experts on this ?

JohnnyBs68S

I'm 99.9% sure all '68 442s (and 98% sure all '68 Cutlass S) came w/ the bulged / cowl / louvered hood. If the VIN confirms it as a real 442, I'd suspect the hood was replaced at some time due to a wreck (or stolen and replaced, etc.). I don't think the hood was an option as it came included w/ the trim level (442 & Cutlass S).

Of course, I've been wrong before. Counting down to a correction from Joe P. or other much more knowledgeable Olds-meister in 3...2...1....

rcktdoc

The only 68s to come with flat hoods were F85s and Supremes.Period.

allyolds68

And wagons

You've asked all over FB and now here. It sounds like you really want to believe that a 442 could have come with a flat hood.... it could not have.

Andy

Andy

Nope, trying to get expert / precision answers not everyones opinion. Thought this would be the place.. so thanks for your comment however unsolicited.

joe_padavano

You are going to find the same people here giving you the same answers we gave you on FB. If you don't believe the answers you got over there, why did you waste your time on that forum?

Of course, rather than crowdsourcing an answer you also could have simply done your own research. The Product Information Manual (Assembly Manual) and the Parts Book both clearly spell out which hoods got used on which models. The Salesman's SPECS booklet and the Inspectors Guide similarly show that there was no RPO code for selecting a different hood on 442s, so again, factory literature makes the answer pretty clear.

allyolds68

this is a much better place to get advice....

I was kind of being a wise *** and I’m sorry about that.

Andy

I was advised off the Oldsmobile Facebook to come to this site. I did a thorough research yet did not go into the books 📚 n such a query. If you’d bothered I asked a dang question then sorry to screw up your day. If I knew the answer I wouldn’t have asked, if I didn’t get conflicting with bogo I wouldn’t have inquired on this site. No. I don’t have all the manuals to look into. WTH, it’s a simple question

droldsmorland

No, you're fine here. Yes, it is a simple Q. We are a thick-skinned bunch. Some of our members can be a bit coarse and not have a whole lot of patience with repetitive questions, especially when they can be easily searched here...but we do mean well.

We're generally a friendly bunch. Much more so than most other testosterone ridden automotive sites. And we do have 99.9% of the correct Olds information due to good data, first-hand experience and good site policing/editing when false or unknown info arises.

Welcome to CO and keep the questions coming... The Googler search engine works better than this one. Google will lead you here.

Do you have some pictures to post? We like pics.

68s are VIN specific. Meaning the VIN, if original to the car, will tell you what it is and isn't. Quite possibly the hood was replaced at some time and they couldn't find the Cutlass S/442 hood...or didn't care.

allyolds68

And FWIW once you’ve had a beer with Joe P you’ll realize he’s the smartest beer drinking Oldsmobile guy on the planet....

He means no harm....

Andy

Appreciate the response back. Thanks, no harm done. I am looking at buying this 68 442 convertible,hence the question. It was advertised on the olds facebook site.Search 68 olds on that site, its a blue one on a trailer he advertised. Obviously the hood was replaced at some point, car is in Atlanta. I live in Florida so I just need to take a few days to go see it for myself. Its an all original car he says and it looks it from the videos and pics sent( with exception of hood) however it needs a full resto. I am a Pontiac guy mainly but looking to replace my high school car, had the same blue 68 442 in high school, except mine was white interior 4 speed. This car is D code blue, bench seat, auto loaded with power windows, power bench seat ac etc. So we shall see, trying to figure what costs will be after buying car, asking 19,000 but heck basic strip and paint starts at 10k down here then goes up with rust repair. Cant figure out how to attach pics..sorry. Thanks for clearing up the confusion on the hood responses, I love autos and helping as well as getting to the bottom of an inquiry.

Andy

Andy

BackInTheGame

Welcome to the site! The VIN proves the 4-4-2 - NICE! It's a nice ride from what we can see here. $19K seems a bit high to me, but I've not seen it in person, and of course prices rise as time goes by. Good Luck!

Andy

Andy

Totally agree with you, I would be over 50k after resto pretty easily. While I understand cars are usually not an investment but a hobby I still don’t want to be throwing away excess cash by overpaying thru an emotional purchase. I would be much more comfortable at around 14k.. may let it sit a bit and see if he comes down. It does have the typical behind the rear wheel rust, one fender needs replaced and trying to source the correct hood are all additional expenses. Motor has 100k so will need freshened up soon.

droldsmorland

If this car is as clean underneath as it is on top it will be a very nice starting point. Look closely at the front frame horns, bumper brackets, fender bolts etc for accident evidence. Snap a pic straight on of the front end to see the fender hood bumper gaps. Could be something dropped on the hood thus replaced or a it had a light tap to the nose. Examine the headlight buckets for cracks etc. Look at the underside of the hood for evidence of another color.
This is a later build car O5C = 3rd week of May 1968.

The rot trouble spots on these cars is:
1. Under the wipers. Pull the wide chrome trim and look at the base of the windshield. Have the seller do it and send pics before you travel. That would be the most expensive metal surgery site.
2. The core support under the battery and where the front sway bar attaches to the frame.
3. The front fender dog legs. Even a desert car will exhibit rot between the skin and brace. Easy fix, not a deterrent
4. Door Seams
5. Rockers
6. Rear wheel housings, inner and outer lip seams.
7. Rear quarters down low in front and rear of the wheel.
8. Trunk floor and drop offs. Have the seller remove the mat and snap a pic.
9. On a vert inspect the structure that holds the top mechanism to the rear quarters for integrity.
10. Floors. Particularly vulnerable on a vert.
11. Frame should be smooth and pit free. Look inside the frame holes. The trouble spots are behind the front wheels and in front of the rear wheels where the boxed sections are joined.
The blue body color under the black on the cowl is suspicious.

If this car is clean its worth ~15 all day as it sits. So quadruple that to get something close to a show car. Double that for concourse.(depending on how much you do vs farming it out) 15-20K in paint n body all day for a good job and minimal metal surgery.

You do it for the love of the car not for profit unless you do all of it in house.

Andy

Thank you, I have to weigh it all out as the frame and underneath look decent from video but not smooth, Definately some flaky stuff. It does scare me as your right paint and body alone with rear wheel rust and having to pull doors and all to blast will be 15k. Very thorough post in what to look at thank you

joe_padavano

The rust on the VIN tag suggests that you should get the seller to remove the stainless trim around the windshield and look very closely for pinchweld rust. With a replaced hood and new paint, this car has obviously been worked on. You don't know what is under that paint.

Andy

Andy

I have reached out through email to Dixson Olds club in Atlanta, to see if I can pay someone who has a very very good knowledge of these cars to go check it out for me as I am like eight hours away. Better money spent to pay someone in the are with no emotional attachment .. Then I can negotiate from there as the color combo is exactly what I have been looking for..

joe_padavano

That's not a bad idea. I'll add that the light orange rust on the VIN tag suggests a recent water leak.

Andy

Do any of you guys know anyone in the greater Atlanta area willing to do an inspection on this car? Thorough like Joe or Dr Moreland? Willing to pay for the service no problem?

droldsmorland

Reach out to the local Olds Club of America chapter(OCA) https://www.oldsmobileclub.org/

Andy

I did that as well..thank you Doc.

Jon442

One thing to keep in mind, and this is from first-hand experience, is that you cannot disturb the VIN tag on the dash if you need to do rust repair. I had a '72 Cutlass at one time that had some rust in the dash area around the VIN tag. I called the highway patrol and asked them about removing the VIN tag, repairing the rust, and then re-installing the VIN tag. They were VERY adamant about that not being permissible. Something to bear in mind. Your state may have a different outlook on it.

The VIN tag on that car is also very rusty. Even if you were to buy the car and do a bucks-up restoration on it, you will still have a rusty VIN tag. Sure, you can paint over it, but I don't know of any way to actually repair it to look new. I don't know of any jurisdiction that will let you change it or modify it in any way.

joe_padavano

You correctly point out that this is a state issue. Federal law is very clear that VIN tag removal and replacement IS legal if "reasonably necessary for repair". State law does not always make that distinction and frequently is nonsensical. For example, in MD, it is technically illegal to alter VIN derivative stamps, making it illegal to swap engines, transmissions, and frames. Obviously this is not enforced, but that's what's on the books. The problem is that all these VIN laws are focused on the commission of fraud and often ignore legitimate needs to perform repairs. Does it REALLY make sense that under the law you can cut out the 1" square of sheet metal around the VIN tag, suspend it in space, and weld in all new metal EXCEPT that square inch? Under federal law, it actually isn't the VIN tag removal that is illegal, it is doing it with intent to commit fraud. Read U.S. Code - Title 18. Crimes and Criminal Procedure § 511. Altering or removing motor vehicle identification numbers.

joe_padavano

I'll add one more thing, however. Don't expect members of law enforcement to be well versed on the more obscure provisions of state law - unlike Jamie Reagan, most are not Harvard Law grads. As an example, nearly every officer here in VA assumes that year-of-manufacture plates can only be used like antique plates, for occasional driving and not for daily use. That is not the case, however. VA state law clearly allows YOM plates to be used on a daily driver IF you treat it like a regular registration, with the same annual fees and annual safety inspection. Since I have just such a registration for the YOM plates on my 67 Delta, I keep a copy of the applicable part of the state law in the glove box for when (not if) I get pulled over.

edzolz

Looking at the VIN tag, it looks like that car might have been a flood car. Look under the dash for evidence of water soaking. Especially the fuse holder. If it was wet there will be rust on the fuse contacts.

Olds442toro

Can’t remember who but do remember someone in the GA. Area with one that color wreck bad in front and bent frame he showed some pics after it was fixed if same car could explain the flat hood. I will try and research who and try to find pics if same car

joe_padavano

Possible, but not the only explanation. I've had several cars with rusty fuse box terminals that were caused by pinchweld rust allowing water down inside the firewall, which I why I'm paranoid about pinchweld rust.

Andy

Thanks all, the vin tag rust has me concerned as something is going on causing the vin numerals to be half eaten away. I reached out to Dixie Olds group, the responded saying they don’t have anyone but sent the notice to members. Also reached out to Olds club of America, no response yet.. i really need to either drive or fly to Atlanta to check it out thorougly myself.. I dont want to insult the guy as he is a nice guy but 19,000 is more than I am willing to pay, I would be good at 15 if that dash under the windshield is solid.. i dont want to get into that much rust work as it would cost a fortune, be better to keep looking for a cleaner less rust car.. I have restored 3 cars and the first one taught m3 better ti find clean than pay cheap for rust. I should preface that helped restore 3 of my cars, I outsource the rust and paint, I di the grunt work stripping and light body work, sand an$ prep.. however hitting in my early 60’s my body is not as fond of that type work so its got to go to a qualified person.. Thats another can of freakin worms right there..

Andy

Appreciate you finding those photos of Georgia car

Andy

Guy hasn’t taken the window stainless strip off yet but sent a few photos, you can see on the one corner that the dash metal is rusted thru, my suspicion is it gets much worse underneath, you’alls thoughts?

joe_padavano

Your suspicions are likely correct.