1969 Olds 442 Convertible
#1
1969 Olds 442 Convertible
Hey All, New to this site and trying to sell a car that I sort of inherited. Long story.
Runs great, Looks great. Fantastic driver or invest for full restoration
AT, PS, PB, Factory AC, P Windows, P Driver Seat, P Top
VIN = 344679M361475
Mileage = 123,500 with only 20,000 on fully rebuilt engine
Matching numbers with most receipts. Third owner since new.
Paint and body are good. The top is new and the power lift works smooth. The only issue I see is a small exhaust leak in one of the tailpipes. I also have two new tailpipe covers.
I had a Concourse judge (a friend who was selling a W30 for 125K) come look at the car and he suggested I start at 39K - 42K but that was two years ago. I would let it go for 30K today. Does that seem like a fair price? Opinions appreciated.
I live in Oregon but the car is in So. Cal at the in-laws
PM me if interested.
Thanks
Runs great, Looks great. Fantastic driver or invest for full restoration
AT, PS, PB, Factory AC, P Windows, P Driver Seat, P Top
VIN = 344679M361475
Mileage = 123,500 with only 20,000 on fully rebuilt engine
Matching numbers with most receipts. Third owner since new.
Paint and body are good. The top is new and the power lift works smooth. The only issue I see is a small exhaust leak in one of the tailpipes. I also have two new tailpipe covers.
I had a Concourse judge (a friend who was selling a W30 for 125K) come look at the car and he suggested I start at 39K - 42K but that was two years ago. I would let it go for 30K today. Does that seem like a fair price? Opinions appreciated.
I live in Oregon but the car is in So. Cal at the in-laws
PM me if interested.
Thanks
#2
a concourse judge would point out the lettering on the trunk belongs on a '71 Cutlass and not on a 69 442 before suggesting $39-$42k
still a nice highly optioned car for sure
GLWS.
still a nice highly optioned car for sure
GLWS.
Last edited by LI Olds; July 23rd, 2013 at 07:28 PM.
#4
looks like a nice car, try to get some pics of the interior. For the purest's there are a few things like the decklid, color of engine etc that may make folks hesitate to pay top dollar. But 30k doesn't seem bad depending on how the car shows in person, could be a very fair price - not a lot of 442 convertibles around.
#5
#6
Are you saying this is NOT a 69 442 as the title and all the paperwork describe or are you suggesting I have the lettering removed? Does it harm the value? Thanks
#7
The lettering did not come on any '69 cutlass/442/F85. It was added at some point by someone. Post more detailed pics such as interior, inside trunk etc. also, the body tag (data plate) located on the cowl under the hood drivers side above the brake booster, will tell the truth on the car being a 442. Nobody here doubts it isn't, but if you can post a pic of it here, many members could decode it for you! Looks like a beaut to me! Love the color!
#8
If the major parts "numbers match" and only gingerbread items need replacing or are missing and its very clean 20-25-30k for a "driver" is on target depending how clean it is, 40K is very high in this market.
20K would reflect 100K+ miles and the chassis most likely needs to be freshened up. 25-30K if thats all done trans included.
20K would reflect 100K+ miles and the chassis most likely needs to be freshened up. 25-30K if thats all done trans included.
#9
I'm with Steve on this one. You might get $30K but it will take a while until the right buyer finds you. 20-25 is more realistic. Go to ebay and search on completed auctions for cars like this. You'll find that few of the high dollar cars actually sell.
#11
Good luck with the sale.
#13
Post the VIN. For a '69 that will confirm if its a real 442 or not. IMO the gold engine is a red flag. In '69 it should be a 400 and painted bronze. Also, there should be a large # or Letter on the front of the pass side head by the 1st spark plug and the block should have a casting number behind the water pump parallel to the ground. Post those as well.
Good luck with the sale.
Good luck with the sale.
Exhaust Manifolds = RH - Z402294 LH - W402295
I also found a few more pictures!
Don"t know if that is any help or not but I appreciate all the opinions. Guess I will start around 26K - 27K and try to get 25K
Thanks to all
Ross
Last edited by Oregon Wolf; July 24th, 2013 at 02:15 PM. Reason: Add some pictures
#15
#16
Here's the breakdown of your VIN and trim tag. First the VIN:
344679M361475
3 = GM division = Oldsmobile
44 = model series = 442 (so you do have a real 442)
67 = body type = convertible
9 = model year = 1969
M = assembly plant = Lansing MI
361475 = plant sequential number
Now for your trim tag:
ST 69 = style/model year = 1969
33667: 3 = GM division = Oldsmobile; 36 = model series = Cutlass V8 (note that this is common with Lansing cars to use the "Cutlass V8" model series identification on the trim tag even though the car is a 442 as shown by the VIN); 67 = body type = convertible.
LAN = assembly plant = Lansing MI
362??? BDY = body number (this number has no relation to the VIN plant sequential number by the way; they are independent of each other).
TR 934 = interior color and front seat type = gold interior with strato bucket seats
75 B PNT = lower body color (75 = Aztec gold) and convertible top color (B = black).
04D = time build code = the 4th week (04) of April (D) 1969.
Hope this helps!
Randy C.
344679M361475
3 = GM division = Oldsmobile
44 = model series = 442 (so you do have a real 442)
67 = body type = convertible
9 = model year = 1969
M = assembly plant = Lansing MI
361475 = plant sequential number
Now for your trim tag:
ST 69 = style/model year = 1969
33667: 3 = GM division = Oldsmobile; 36 = model series = Cutlass V8 (note that this is common with Lansing cars to use the "Cutlass V8" model series identification on the trim tag even though the car is a 442 as shown by the VIN); 67 = body type = convertible.
LAN = assembly plant = Lansing MI
362??? BDY = body number (this number has no relation to the VIN plant sequential number by the way; they are independent of each other).
TR 934 = interior color and front seat type = gold interior with strato bucket seats
75 B PNT = lower body color (75 = Aztec gold) and convertible top color (B = black).
04D = time build code = the 4th week (04) of April (D) 1969.
Hope this helps!
Randy C.
#17
Hey Randy, Thank you! That is all great to know. As Jamesbo suggested, how would i go about determining if the engine is a matching/original engine. Is it stamped somewhere? Is it important?
What about the tranny as well?
Thanks Ross
btw - I am "just" down the road from you in Ashland OR.
What about the tranny as well?
Thanks Ross
btw - I am "just" down the road from you in Ashland OR.
#18
From the 442.com website:
1968-later V-8 Engine
Have the last six digits of the VIN number, the year of the block, and the assembly plant stamped on the driver's side of the block below the cylinder head. A 2-letter code on the oil filler tube identified the engine.
That pad is hard to see hiding under the alt bracket, so a mirror or camera may help. A good 455 swap would probably not hurt value but a 350 would. Stock transmission should be a TH400 and recognizable by pan shape (kinda like Texas).
I like it a lot but you may have to find the right buyer for the color, even though very authentic for the period. If trying to maximize value, I would think about getting the correct trunk trim to avoid red flags on originality. Organize your documentation and clean/detail everything, especially under the hood. And lose the grandma whitewalls
1968-later V-8 Engine
Have the last six digits of the VIN number, the year of the block, and the assembly plant stamped on the driver's side of the block below the cylinder head. A 2-letter code on the oil filler tube identified the engine.
That pad is hard to see hiding under the alt bracket, so a mirror or camera may help. A good 455 swap would probably not hurt value but a 350 would. Stock transmission should be a TH400 and recognizable by pan shape (kinda like Texas).
I like it a lot but you may have to find the right buyer for the color, even though very authentic for the period. If trying to maximize value, I would think about getting the correct trunk trim to avoid red flags on originality. Organize your documentation and clean/detail everything, especially under the hood. And lose the grandma whitewalls
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