Hello Everyone,


I am in the process of a frame off on my dads '72 Cutlass. I am in the process of setting up the new rolling chassis (orig had 5 cracks so went to a vert frame) and am going to be ordering everything in the next week or so.


As far as suspension components go, I will likey be using the Stage 2 kit from SC and C http://scandc.com/new/node/735 and keeping the rear end but upgrading the gearing with a locker.


For wheels, I will most likely be using 17 or 18s by circle racing http://www.circleracing.com/94series.htm


I am at the point now where I don't think I can find a solution for 'better than stock disc brakes' and still be able to go back to the original SSIIs so my question is this...


For about $1,000-$1,500 what set up can I use with the stock spindles (I believe there is some slight drum spindle machine work that needs to be done) that will be a complete bolt on system? The preferable kit/set up would include everything from the rotors to the MC and booster.


I have seen tons of threads out there but I think this is first to say 'the heck with' the stock rims and just focus on aftermarket applications.


Thanks for your help.

 

Right stuff brakes has a complete system with spindles. They have brake lines available as well so you can get a complete system. It looks like they are on sale too!

http://www.getdiscbrakes.com/afxdc46c

 

I went with the Right Stuff Detailing 4-wheel disc brake conversion kit. I think the kit included everything except for the hard lines.

There are a few things to watch out for. The rear rotors will not clear Oldsmobile axles. You will either have to get the inside of the rotor or the axle machined a small amount so that everything clears. You won't have the issue with the wheels obviously.

You can also choose upgrades like chrome brake booster and master cylinder, braided lines, powder coated calipers and cross-drilled and slotted rotors.

I can't comment on how the brakes work yet, since I installed the system just before winter and haven't had the car out yet.

 

Thanks for the replys...few questions.

Did both of you install the drop spindles as well? I am going with a tall ball join application and don't know how/if this will work with stock spindles. I have heard that the stock spindles are the best 'quality' and I am doing the tall ball joints to fix the geometry issue. Suspension newbie so any insight is appreciated.

What other kits did you look into when doing your search? I would really like to have some good looking rotors as well since I am spending the money.

Also, if a guy goes with a Baer, SBBC, or Wilwood set up can you run a stock MC and booster that has been rebuilt?

Thanks!

Ben

 

Ben, I'm far from a suspension expert myself.

This is the kit I bought from Right Stuff. It comes with the spindles, cross drilled and slotted rotors, powder coated calipers (black or red). I am guessing the spindles are stock. I do not know anything about the tall ball joints.

http://www.getdiscbrakes.com/afxdc41csx

I'll be honest and say I did not compare with other brands, just because of the people I know locally and how happy they were with their kits. Although they were all on Chev's. I was the first Olds in the group.

I am anxious to see how they work, but the car is still not ready for the road.

 

Thanks for the response! I am going to keep looking although this looks like the front runner...this is my first suspension/brake build so doing it from scratch is making me a bit nervous with all of the pricing components.

If anyone else out there has any experience with some great kits please feel free to post.

 

AH Pilot, I did the right stuff conversion to 4 wheel disc as well. (with the 4 wheel disc master cylinder and proportioning valve) You may still have a small amount of air in the rear calipers. I had to take them off of the mounts and rotate them so the bleeder valve was as much in the up direction as possible, and FINALLY got the last bit of air out of them.... now they seem MUCH better! It is a PITA!

 

Don't do drop spindles and tall ball joints unless you want to slam it and don't care if you scrape bottom at every speed bump (too much of a good thing can go bad really quick). If you want a kit, call Marcus at SC&C he will steer you in the right direction. If you are DIY. most people recommend no more than 1/2" taller BJ on the bottom and 1/2"-1" taller BJ on top using stock spindles. You'll need a pair of SPC adj upper arms to bring the static camber into alignment and caster range should be 3-5 degrees. The stock upper arm will be too long with the tall BJs. The tall lower BJ will lower your ride height by the same amount and will correct the factory bump steer too.