76 cutlass front to rear brake line.
76 cutlass front to rear brake line.
I have a pin hole leak just in front of the rear wheel. I was able to get all of the mount bolts off but haven't tried to remove the clips yet. The front and rear flare nuts will not release however.
I'm wondering if I would be better off to just cut out the part with the pinhole and flare the existing pipe to a new piece as opposed to cutting off the line and using brute force and 5 point sockets to remove the flare nuts.
I'm also wondering if the clamps will still be usable if I bend them off the brake and gas line and where I can get more of them.
All suggestions and guidance will be greatly appreciated.
I'm wondering if I would be better off to just cut out the part with the pinhole and flare the existing pipe to a new piece as opposed to cutting off the line and using brute force and 5 point sockets to remove the flare nuts.
I'm also wondering if the clamps will still be usable if I bend them off the brake and gas line and where I can get more of them.
All suggestions and guidance will be greatly appreciated.
I've found that the pinhole in one place usually means there will be others shortly, so I always just replace the whole line. It's a PITA with the body on the frame. I've reused the clamps with no problems, assuming they aren't also rusted. Repros should be available from the usual brake tubing vendors. I'd cut the line at the fittings and use a six point socket to get the old fittings out. Use penetrating oil liberally, but clean it all off before reassembly.
Is it six points? I always thought it was five. Oh well I must have read your mind because I went out there with my dremel and did just what you said before reading your response. I still had to use my breaker bar but it came off. I cut it off in the back too. Then I pushed it through the support and let it hang by the flexible hose. A couple of vise grips later it was off too.
I'll be going to advanced auto tomorrow to buy some tubing and to rent their double flaring tool. PITA is an apt description of the removal process. I'm not looking forward to trying to thread the new one in there either.
I'm tempted to replace the gas line while I'm in there but I think I'm going to be able to talk myself out of it. I'll feel real sorry for myself if it ends up rusting through too though.
Thanks.
I'll be going to advanced auto tomorrow to buy some tubing and to rent their double flaring tool. PITA is an apt description of the removal process. I'm not looking forward to trying to thread the new one in there either.
I'm tempted to replace the gas line while I'm in there but I think I'm going to be able to talk myself out of it. I'll feel real sorry for myself if it ends up rusting through too though.
Thanks.
I finished the job today using two five foot sticks. The original line was 9 and 1/2 feet so it only came out a little harry.
I screwed around with the pump three times and hold method but could not get the air out. So I finally put my 13 YO daughter in the car and went back to the method I learned when I was a kid. That is I'd open the bleeder and say down, close the bleeder before she got to the bottom of her push and say up, repeat. It's a little messy, and you have to keep an eye on the fluid level, but I got the air out pretty quick.
I screwed around with the pump three times and hold method but could not get the air out. So I finally put my 13 YO daughter in the car and went back to the method I learned when I was a kid. That is I'd open the bleeder and say down, close the bleeder before she got to the bottom of her push and say up, repeat. It's a little messy, and you have to keep an eye on the fluid level, but I got the air out pretty quick.
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