Power to Manual question
#1
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Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: San Clemente Ca. OR Downers Grove Il. Depends....
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Power to Manual question
In the process of converting from power disc/drum to manual in my 1971 442 due to low manifold vacuum.
What is all required for this conversion?
I picked up a pushrod assembly from inline tube as well as a firewall reinforcing plate.
The master cylinder I have is the OEM style Disc/Drum with 1 1/8 bore diameter. From other threads, I am assuming I need a 1" diameter disc/drum cylinder, however I cannot seem to find this part. Rockauto and other distributers I have checked seem to carry two types: drum/drum and the shallow piston disc/drum for power brakes like mine.
Also, I have also seen mention of a brake pedal return spring for manual brakes. Where does this mount and where can I find the correct spring?
Thanks,
Steve
What is all required for this conversion?
I picked up a pushrod assembly from inline tube as well as a firewall reinforcing plate.
The master cylinder I have is the OEM style Disc/Drum with 1 1/8 bore diameter. From other threads, I am assuming I need a 1" diameter disc/drum cylinder, however I cannot seem to find this part. Rockauto and other distributers I have checked seem to carry two types: drum/drum and the shallow piston disc/drum for power brakes like mine.
Also, I have also seen mention of a brake pedal return spring for manual brakes. Where does this mount and where can I find the correct spring?
Thanks,
Steve
#3
Unless you are married to this course of action, the easiest solution to the problem is to install a GM vacuum pump to augment the low vacuum.
I found one from an 80s Cavalier in the junk yard and it has worked perfectly for 10 years. It only comes on when I start the car, or if I brake a few times when engine revs haven't been above 1500.
You need a source of switched power and you plumb the pump between the engine and the booster.
I put it under the driver-side fender, completely out of sight. You wouldn't get any point deduction in a show.
I found one from an 80s Cavalier in the junk yard and it has worked perfectly for 10 years. It only comes on when I start the car, or if I brake a few times when engine revs haven't been above 1500.
You need a source of switched power and you plumb the pump between the engine and the booster.
I put it under the driver-side fender, completely out of sight. You wouldn't get any point deduction in a show.
#4
I have factory manual discs in my 1970 W-30. The car stops fine and pedal pressure is not excessive. Use a 1" master cylinder. Be sure to use the upper hole in the pedal arm for the manual M/C pushrod.
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