yeahbuddy

Need to repair my left front drum as it couldn't be repaired it's causing my brake pedal to go soft. Found a replacement on opgi for 64$ + $20 shipping. This is a temp fix until I can convert over to disc. Thought I'd see if any of you had an extra one in good condition laying around.

Front, 9-1/2" X 2-1/2", w/3-1/2" Height (w/Fins)
https://www.opgi.com/cutlass/1968/br...rakes/BD60198/

Im in CA

ROCKETMAN269V

Are you saying that it's worn beyond it's service limit? Usually a "soft" pedal is more of a hydraulic issue. If you are sure that you need one, I can check my stash at my shop tomorrow. Thanks, Bob.

yeahbuddy

Yes, I had it repaired a few months back and they couldnt machine it or find a replacement so they just reused it the way it was.

joe_padavano

RockAuto has replacement drums for your application for $20 and up. Why is this a problem? They won't look exactly like original, but they will work. If all you want is a functional drum until you do the disc swap, this will be fine.

I'll also point out that these are the same front drums as are used on the 1967-69 Camaros. EVERYBODY sells them. NAPA even lists them (under the Camaro application). If your mechanic can't figure this out, I'd find a new mechanic.

yeahbuddy

That's works for me but none of the specs on Rock Auto are matching up correctly. If you know which are the same that would help.

joe_padavano

What "specs" are you talking about? This is one of several that they list:



There's also Bendix PDR0059 if you want brand name US made.

yeahbuddy

I was going by these specs

Front Drums
Brake Drum Surface Depth 2.95",
Center Bore Diameter: 2.82",
Height:3.483",
Brake Surface Diameter:9.5",
Maximum Discard Diameter:9.56",
O.D. 11.49",
Finned Brake Drum:Yes

I'll try those out.

yeahbuddy

Found 2 of them of Amazon for $10.60 each shipped prime. Can't beat that. Thanks again.

joe_padavano

The only things that matter are center bore, bolt pattern, inside diameter, friction surface width, and the height from the surface that fits over the hub to the inboard edge of the friction surface. That last one isn't even listed. Most of the dimensions they provide are useless, as the outer dimensions can vary quite a bit and the drum will still work. Again, these front drums are VERY common and fit just about every GM with 9.5" drum front brakes.

joe_padavano

For which ones? The Centric and Bendix seem to be about $30 each at Amazon.

yeahbuddy

It was for the Bendix. Once I placed the order it jumped up to $32. I got lucky.

For two shipped:

Order Summary
Item(s) Subtotal: $21.22
Shipping & Handling: $0.00
Total before tax: $21.22
Estimated tax to be collected: $1.70
Grand Total: $22.92

oldcutlass

I still don't understand how a drum can make your pedal spongy. The reason drums go bad is they warp due to heat and create a vibration when applying the brakes. Either there is air in the lines, shoes need adjustment, or your booster is leaking.

yeahbuddy

Sorry guys, looking back at my old notes. My mechanic couldn't fix the drum because he couldn't find one with the hub attached. He said he didn't have the tool to "sledge them together". I am not that knowledgable so a little confused.

The pedal going soft has been an ongoing issue, usually caused by leaking wheel cylinders. I've replaced all of them already. The front right drum is making an awful squeeling nose and has a burning odor coming off of it. This has happened before and the pedal eventually goes to the floor and barely stops.

oldcutlass

Have you checked the wheel bearings? Are the brakes dragging or the wheel cylinders still leaking?

yeahbuddy

It's not the bearings. It has something to do with the drum because when I brake it squeels and feels gritty like something is warping.

farmer52

Is the brake drum cracked?

yeahbuddy

It is not cracked. I was told it needed to be resurfaced but they said it was not possible I guess it is beyond repair at this point. They tried ordering a new drum with hub but couldn't find one together.

oldcutlass

Take the drum to an auto parts store and ask them if they can put a very light cut on the drum to true it. They will measure and tell you if its doable. If not ask them to sell you a new drum and have them do a light cut on it before you reinstall.

joe_padavano

Apparently, neither is this alleged "mechanic"...

Press out the studs. The drum and hub come apart. Find someone who has a press, not a "sledge".

ROCKETMAN269V

I'm pretty sure that he was referring to a tool to "SWAGE" the studs to hold the drum on. You also have to be careful when you press the studs out, so that you don't warp the hub. When I worked at an Olds dealership we would cut the heads off of the studs and drive them out from the inside.

fb70cutlass

If a drum is extremely oversized it is possible to generate "Brake Fade" due to the inability of the drums disbursement of heat. possible but unlikely. Just my opinion.

joe_padavano

Probably, but the reality is that many of these cars didn't have the drums swaged in place anyway. The brakes work just fine with the drums simply slid over the studs and center hub. It's the center pilot that locates the drum anyway. Keep in mind that the rear drums are that way on every single RWD Olds. I did the same thing on the front of my 62 wagon, and the manual drum brakes have been fine for six years now. As the OP says, he plans to do a disc conversion in the not-too-distant future.

yeahbuddy

Any of you guys know what kind of drum this is? I am confused here. I pulled off my front wheels from a 68 Cutlass Supreme to replace the drums and I found this. I remember my mechanic a while back told me he needed drums with the hubs attached. Honestly, I've never seen any like this for sale. I ordered some new drums that are separate thinking thats what I had.

I am going to eventually convert the front to disc brakes when I get the finds and confidence to do it myself. I have been having trouble with the setup for some time usually soft pedal. This time around the front right drum is making a grinding/squeal and feels gritty. Its time they need to be replaced at least. Thanks

Paladin31

I have a 68 Cutlass S and will try to look at it this weekend & post pics, its a 4 drum car.

Brett

yeahbuddy

Thank you, I appreciate it.

svnt442

You have to knock out the studs to separate the drum from the hub and then install new studs (it's best not to reuse the old ones) to mate the hub and drum.
You can't buy new hubs or drums that have the hubs built in like rotors do.

oldcutlass

Have you taken the drums off to see what is making the noise and the condition of the brakes? Is there play in the wheel bearings?

MDchanic

Those don't look like the 2-piece drums to me, though I will admit I have found that there are more types of front drums than I had once thought.

Seems to me the most common front drums across all cars of the era are the one-piece with the integral hub, which is what I think these are, though a lot of A-body Olds seem to have had the 2-piece type.

Anyway, you just remove the hub nut as you usually would, remove the drum, and do the brakes. There's no mystery here.
... And very seldom do you need to replace the drums or the hubs anyway, so that's not even really an issue.

- Eric

oldcutlass

I merged the 2 threads to eliminate 2 conversations about the same issue.

I disagree, if the drums have been cut too many times there is a point at which they cannot be cut anymore and need to be replaced. Which is why I suggested they be removed and taken to an auto parts store to see if they can be trued with a minor cut. Hubs can be destroyed with a spun wheel bearing/race.

yeahbuddy

I have not removed it yet but earlier in the year when I was experiencing the same problem I took it to a shop and they wanted to resurface it or replace it. They said it was beyond the point of being resurfaced and they couldn't find a replacement. I dont know what they did to temporarily fix it but the same thing has started to happen again.

oldcutlass

Again, if you are not experiencing a vibrating pedal or shaking in the steering when you apply the brakes, something else is making the noise. Take them off and look.

yeahbuddy

Does having this type of setup make it easier and cheaper to convert to a front disc setup since it is just a spindle under the drum?

MDchanic

"If." But it may not need to be cut and he may not have spun a bearing.

And neither he nor we will ever know unless he takes it apart...

- Eric

MDchanic

No.

-Eric

yeahbuddy

I plan on taking it apart tomorrow or this weekend. Any suggestions on what to look for/at?

oldcutlass

No, there is no difference in the spindles, just the drums.

MDchanic

Look for signs of wear or heat damage to the bearing races and for damage or irregularity to the drum friction surface, then take it to an auto parts store and have them measure the diameter with their caliper to see whether it's out of its size range.

- Eric

oldcutlass

Look for damaged wheel bearings/races and/or damaged drum surfaces, broken brake parts, worn brake shoes, etc. Take pictures of all the parts and post them on here.

steverw

The drum brake spindle is different from the disc brake spindle, where the large bolt at the top screws into the spindle. The drum brake spindle threaded boss is approx 9/16 or 5/8 thicker than the disc brake spindle and needs to be milled off. However it seems i have read somewhere lately that someone makes a disc brake kit that will use factory drum brake spindles. Or you can use the disc brake set up from any GM A body car made from 1967 to 1972. The 67's and 68's have 4 piston calipers and 2 piece rotors, 69 and up have single piston caliper.

yeahbuddy

I am going to pull it off tomorrow morning. Just to confirm, I just need to remove the cotter pin and nut on the spindle then the drum should slide right off? Any specific torque for the nut when putting the drum back on the spindle?