Soft Brake Pedal
#1
Soft Brake Pedal
Here is the issue. I have bled the breaks 4 times and again last night. The pedel still goes way down and breaks are soft.
Here is some background on where it all started. It is in a 69 Cutlass S. Did an engine swap where I had to move the modulator for the Header. I moved it up onto the firewall upright about 18 inches below the power master cylinder. I have checked and the garage floor is dry so there is no leaks. I have also forked the breaks many times.
Is it my power boster?
Here is some background on where it all started. It is in a 69 Cutlass S. Did an engine swap where I had to move the modulator for the Header. I moved it up onto the firewall upright about 18 inches below the power master cylinder. I have checked and the garage floor is dry so there is no leaks. I have also forked the breaks many times.
Is it my power boster?
#2
Did you BENCH BLEED the master cylinder before installation?
"forked the brakes many times" What does that mean?
Are you sure the rear brake shoes are adjusted to be slightly dragging on the drums?
NO, I don't think its your power booster.
"forked the brakes many times" What does that mean?
Are you sure the rear brake shoes are adjusted to be slightly dragging on the drums?
NO, I don't think its your power booster.
#3
I assume by modulator you mean the proportioning valve,If you have removed the brake lines then the valve is likley stuck in a closed position if this is the case then you will only have working brakes on one end of the car.The only real cure is a new valve.The only other thing it could be is that you're not bleeding the brakes properly,Start with the passenger rear first then the other rear,move to the passenger front next and last wheel should be drivers front.Also try bleeding the mastercylinder as well. Good Luck.
#4
Thanks
Thanks. I might pull the proportioning valve and check it out. Just a note that my term forking the brakes is adjusting them down to a slight drag. As all of us we are trying to make things work without spending the tons of money to buy disk brake kits.
#5
Hey I here ya, I lucked out $ on buying a parts car. It had everthing I needed for my disc swap in my 71. I think it totalled about $260 to do it all. I too ran into a problem with my proportioning/combo valve. Got a new one from master power brakes. Its the best swap/mod I've done on my ride. Should have done it years ago. Good Luck.
#7
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