New front and back brakes
New front and back brakes
I have a 69 "S" the car has been sitting for several years. I am going to put new brakes on the car. Any suggestions on what kind and where to go to get them? This is my first classic car and I've never bought drum brakes before. Is this something I can just go to autozone and get? Also I piut brake fluid in the car, the next day I came out to my garage and all the fluid had leaked out of the passenger side wheel?? The car was sitting for 7 years before I bought it, do I need to replce the lines or just the wheel cylinder?
You can likely purchase the parts at your local autoparts store. If your not in a hurry, you might save some money purchasing them at RockAuto.com
It's much more likely the wheel cylinder is leaking then the brake line is damaged. But you'll not know for sure until you take it apart. I would purchase the shoes, wheel cylinders and master cylinder before tearing it down. Then if you find something else that needs replaced buy it later. Since you've never bought drum brakes before I would guess you've not rebuilt them before either. What helps me is to pull the drums off both sides of the axle but rebuild one side at a time. Then you can use the other side as a pattern to know where the springs and clips go. Just remember, match the rear of the setup to the rear of the setup. As you face it, what's on your right for the drivers side needs to be on your left for the passengerside. John
It's much more likely the wheel cylinder is leaking then the brake line is damaged. But you'll not know for sure until you take it apart. I would purchase the shoes, wheel cylinders and master cylinder before tearing it down. Then if you find something else that needs replaced buy it later. Since you've never bought drum brakes before I would guess you've not rebuilt them before either. What helps me is to pull the drums off both sides of the axle but rebuild one side at a time. Then you can use the other side as a pattern to know where the springs and clips go. Just remember, match the rear of the setup to the rear of the setup. As you face it, what's on your right for the drivers side needs to be on your left for the passengerside. John
First thing you need to do is put the car up on jack stands and take off the wheels - all 4 of them. Pull the drums and take a look. Chances are really good you have a bad wheel cylinder. Just on principle I'd replace all the cylinders and spring hold downs. The drums are marked on the outside for max tolerances. If they are beyond tolerance, I'd replace them. You might need new drums/brake shoes/wheel cylinders/hold down springs. While you're doing all that, may I suggest you take that opportunity to clean and repack (or replace if you have doubts about their condition) the inner/outer wheel bearings? You're more than 1/2 way to them by the time you get this stuff off. Also check the inner grease seals for cracking.
You can definitely get these parts at Autozone or O'Reillys at a decent price. Cheapest place I know is Rock Auto (they have a discount coupon you can use too) but you have to get everything from the 'same warehouse' so you don't get beat up on shipping.
Is your car manual drum or power drum? If it's power, also have a look at the master cylinder to see if it's leaking from the rear seal.
1969 Cutlass S is a really nice car. Enjoy it!
You can definitely get these parts at Autozone or O'Reillys at a decent price. Cheapest place I know is Rock Auto (they have a discount coupon you can use too) but you have to get everything from the 'same warehouse' so you don't get beat up on shipping.
Is your car manual drum or power drum? If it's power, also have a look at the master cylinder to see if it's leaking from the rear seal.
1969 Cutlass S is a really nice car. Enjoy it!
You will also need some specific tools for the removal and reinstallation of all the return and retention springs and a brake spoon for adjusting them.
A buddy, some beer, and the cuss word manual come in handy (there are specific words for specific scenarios!).
A buddy, some beer, and the cuss word manual come in handy (there are specific words for specific scenarios!).
TAKE PICTURES before and during 'demolition' so you know what you did!
X2 on the cuss stuff. The springs can be a PITA if you don't have the right tools. ( I do and have learned all the proper cuss words by heart)
X2 on the cuss stuff. The springs can be a PITA if you don't have the right tools. ( I do and have learned all the proper cuss words by heart)
Look on the firewall in front of the driver. Is there a big round brake booster the Master cylinder is attached to? If yes, you have power brakes.
If you have just an adapter plate and master cylinder? you have manual brakes. You will also know the difference by driving. Manual brakes take a LOT more pedal pressure.
If you have just an adapter plate and master cylinder? you have manual brakes. You will also know the difference by driving. Manual brakes take a LOT more pedal pressure.
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DR_DAN
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