I'm replacing the front brake cylinders in my 69 Olds Cutlass with front drum brakes. The flare nut going into the wheel cylinder is a hex about 1 inch long. When I try to put the new cylinders in the nut hits the steering knuckle and won't thread in. If I install the nut before bolting the cylinder in then I can't get the cylinder in place because of the interference with the nut and steering knuckle.


The old cylinders go back in just fine. I contacted Dorman and asked about this, but they had never heard of this issue before. I tried a second pair of Dorman cylinders and the same issue arises.


Has anyone else ever experienced this, and if so what cylinders did you find fit with the 1 inch long flair nut on the brake line?


Thanks

 

Do you have a picture?

 

I had that problem, it was the wrong wheel cylinder in my case. Getting the right ones fixed it.
What part number do you have?

 

The part numbers are W71210 and 71211. These numbers were verified by Dorman as being correct for the application.


In the pic, the 1 inch long hex flare nut ends up hitting the steering knuckle which prevents complete assembly. The angle of the threaded hole could be off slightly and cause the interference.

 

Might be a sign to convert to disks upfront. I've got an extra set that is almost complete over here east of Sac.

Bill

 

I had this problem before, been awhile but as I recall I just went and got a different piece of line with the shorter fittings on both ends.

 

I do not have experience with 69 models, and I have never seen a set-up where the rubber hose did not run directly to the wheel cylinder.
But I do look around at different parts places online to help figure things out sometimes. I looked at Rock Auto online and they listed many front wheel cylinders with at least 2 different sets of numbers. I then looked on AutoZone website and they list just 2 numbers, one left and one right, and they are not what you have. The numbers on AutoZone were 33529 and 33530. Those numbers are also listed as one of the choices at RockAuto.
Now this is just a guess, but I suspect you have the wrong wheel cylinders, you probably need the 529 and 530. Certainly no fault of your own. If it were me I would try that, after all what you have is not working.


Best luck, Mike

 

Seems like a lot of guess work in the replies, so thanks for your thoughts. I know different manufacturers and different retail stores use different part numbers, so to some extent comparing part numbers is like comparing apples and oranges. If I put my old cylinders next to the new ones that don't fit they look identical. So I have to guess that the angle of the threaded hole is off by just enough to cause the interference, but not enough to look different. The brake lines are factory original, as are the 1 inch flare nuts. I also know I can change the brake lines and the problem would go away. But, I shouldn't have to change anything to replace the cylinders. So, I guess I will try a different brand and see if that works. Thanks for the replies.

 

OMG your parts have ZERO RUST
lucky man!

Just bend the spindle out of the way
:-)

What if you were to run a hone thru the car's original cylinders, which fit, then install the new rubber parts from the other cylinders?

They way we used to do it back in the day.

 

Octania, good memory. That's the way we used to do it too, and it is my ace in the hole. I still have a brake cylinder hone in my tool box. I just completed a front end build, that's why there is no rust. But..... you should have seen it before..................lol.

 

Sure is pretty under there. I agree, apparently the angle is different. A die grinder may create the clearance needed and not be too noticeable when painted. Perhaps another brand wheel cylinder?