What fittings do I need for the rear flex line on the diff T and also the other end of the flex line that goes to the frame line?

Also, any recommendations for a budget friendly brake line bending tool?

 

Here's the answer for the differential side of your question.

 

what does that tell me?

 

That you buy some 1/4" brake tubing and bend to fit for the rear housing. Then attach to the brake cylinders and the distribution tee.
Or
You buy this: 1968-72 Oldsmobile Cutlass 442 F-85 Rear Axle Drum Brake Lines 2pc, OE Steel

 

I’m trying to find out what fittings are use on the axle line and frame line that connect to the ends of the flex line. These and the one at the other end. Sorry if I didn’t explain it well.

 

Tube nuts. They should have them at your local auto parts store.
For 1/4" tube, the steel kit is PN SUM-220115 and stainless is SUM-220215

Just take your new rear flex line down to the auto parts store and have the parts guy match the nuts up to the flex line.

 

thanks. I’ll do that. We don’t have much in the way of parts stores so we’ll see how it goes.

 

The axle lines are actually 3/16". If you buy 2 sections of 3/16" brake line to bend for the rear, the inverted flare fittings that come on the line (see image below) are the correct ones for the "T" on the flex line. The frame line running from the front to the rear is 1/4". When you say you want to connect to the other "flex lines" I assume you are converting to rear disc brakes correct? If so, the fittings for those lines will probably be the same as the ones shown below, but depending on the brakes, they may also have metric fittings, bubble flared ends, AN fittings, or something else entirely. What kit are you using?

3/16" line examples available in multiple lengths at just about any auto parts store or hardware store:

 

Also, here is a link to the tubing bender I use when making 3/16" - 3/8" lines
https://www.ebay.com/itm/175259109734

 

thanks. The other end of the flex line I’m referring to is the other end of the line that goes to the T. Yes, I’m converting to C6 brakes.

 

If you are using the matching C6 brake hoses that run from the caliper to the axle housing, they use bubble flares and metric fittings. If you are using an aftermarket hose it may use an inverted double flare like the "T". If you do not have fittings for the caliper hoses, your best bet is to do what was mentioned above and take them to an auto parts store to match up the fitttings. Just to be clear, the factory cutlass bake hose that goes from the frame to the axle uses a 1/4" line and fitting on the frame side (except for 64 which used a 3/16" frame line as well), and 3/16" lines and fittings to the "T".

 

I’m replacing all the lines, master cylinder and calipers. Thanks for the help

 

Im going to replace my rear axle brake lines and hose, 72 Cutlass Supreme convertible, rear drum. What length of 3/16 pre-made brake lines will I need… (are both sides same length, suspect so?, Car has been sitting for 27 years!)

 

I don;t know the length, I bought a roll of nicop line and we made them from scratch. You should be able to buy premade lines from various places.

 

WOW! Just a guess but you'll probably be needing to replace every brake and gas line on that car!!!!!

 

Yep, but the floor is strangely solid!

 

I'll opt for removing the term "probably" and the OP must remove and replace all the lines. Those lines look like the type of lines you'd see (1) on a vehicle used to tow a boat trailer & the axle repeatedly immersed in salt water the the ramp; (2) and/or a boat trailers axle which has never met fresh water. R&R of those lines is a necessity. Although, having grown up in the mid-west, it's the type of road-salt sludge you could expect after many years - although this one looks like it was parked & packed in salt water.

 

With no intention to be derogatory - your absolute best case scenario is to completely remove the entire rear end & completely clean the entire rear end. With that much SIGNIFICANT salt corrosion having already taken place the entire rear end metal has become a vast pool of galvanic/oxidative corrosive properties and will continue to it's highly corrosive abilities. What you have is an electrolyte pool which will continue to degrade any metal which comes into contact with the axle housing.

 

It would be careless of me not to point out an absolutely critical safety factor of the rear-end (axle housing) in the image displayed (above). This is a critical safety factor. It is highly likely this rear end is going to completely brake apart in the very not too distant future should this rear-end be placed back into service. It is not street worthy - at all.

You should replace the entire rear-end and control arm assemblies. You should (during this operation) pay careful attention to the axles, seals, etc. contained w/in this axle housing & differential - all internals are highly likely to be at the end of their life. If you have the capabilities great, if not, this rear-end requires immediate attention to make it serviceable & road worthy safe. Good Luck.

 

Suggestion: You will benefit more if you create your own thread regarding your issue(s) so in the future yourself & members can assist in providing you help in resolving this/these issue(s).

 

Canda salt looks quite a bit more potent than Illinois salt.

I'd be surprised if the floors aren't worse than what you see. Mine looked better and we had to replace two thirds of the trunk. Also, check the floor around where the outboard seat belt anchors bolt down, we had to replace about a 4x6 area on both sides.