68 cutlass dead M/C.. need help
68 cutlass dead M/C.. need help
Hey guys,
Master cylinder went this weekend... straight to the floor with or without vacuum and no fluid loss.
So I have a list of questions...
Should I replace the brake booster while I'm at it? I'm assuming so, but would like opinions.
Is a specific brand/type that's better or more reliable than others?
I've got front discs/rear drums... Should I look into converting over to rear discs at this point? Nothing on the car is original other than the M/C which just went so I wanted to know if anyone switched over to rear discs and would recommend it.
Figured I'd ask the people who have gone through it before ordering parts somewhat blindly
Thanks guys
Jim
Master cylinder went this weekend... straight to the floor with or without vacuum and no fluid loss.
So I have a list of questions...
Should I replace the brake booster while I'm at it? I'm assuming so, but would like opinions.
Is a specific brand/type that's better or more reliable than others?
I've got front discs/rear drums... Should I look into converting over to rear discs at this point? Nothing on the car is original other than the M/C which just went so I wanted to know if anyone switched over to rear discs and would recommend it.
Figured I'd ask the people who have gone through it before ordering parts somewhat blindly
Thanks guys
Jim
Hey guys,
Master cylinder went this weekend... straight to the floor with or without vacuum and no fluid loss.
So I have a list of questions...
Should I replace the brake booster while I'm at it? I'm assuming so, but would like opinions.
Is a specific brand/type that's better or more reliable than others?
I've got front discs/rear drums... Should I look into converting over to rear discs at this point? Nothing on the car is original other than the M/C which just went so I wanted to know if anyone switched over to rear discs and would recommend it.
Figured I'd ask the people who have gone through it before ordering parts somewhat blindly
Thanks guys
Jim
Master cylinder went this weekend... straight to the floor with or without vacuum and no fluid loss.
So I have a list of questions...
Should I replace the brake booster while I'm at it? I'm assuming so, but would like opinions.
Is a specific brand/type that's better or more reliable than others?
I've got front discs/rear drums... Should I look into converting over to rear discs at this point? Nothing on the car is original other than the M/C which just went so I wanted to know if anyone switched over to rear discs and would recommend it.
Figured I'd ask the people who have gone through it before ordering parts somewhat blindly
Thanks guys
Jim
I thought the same thing about the rears but figured I'd ask.
I'm thinking about replacing the booster only because it's over 50 years old... how do you tell if they're good or not, and how often do they fail? I don't want to put in a new M/C only to have the booster go next year or something like that
I'm thinking about replacing the booster only because it's over 50 years old... how do you tell if they're good or not, and how often do they fail? I don't want to put in a new M/C only to have the booster go next year or something like that
By the way, "how do you know if they're good or not" is kind of an odd question. You would have no power brakes if your booster was no good! You'd know in an instant.
After thinking about it, I'm probably going to replace the booster and master... only because it's 46 years old at this point and I don't want to have to redo it.
Anyone know any reputable brands? Rockauto has the A1cardone refurbished ones and OPGI has a decent looking combination, both are around $150. Any other sources or vendors I should be looking at?
Thanks for all the help guys
Jim
Anyone know any reputable brands? Rockauto has the A1cardone refurbished ones and OPGI has a decent looking combination, both are around $150. Any other sources or vendors I should be looking at?
Thanks for all the help guys
Jim
I bought both the master cylinder and brake booster at Autozone. Installed last February and no problems so far.
The master cylinder was a new Fenco unit (never heard of that brand, but whatever), cost $20, and they had it in stock. The booster was a Cardone unit, remanufactured, cost $109, and had to be ordered in the store and picked up a day or two later.
Autozone does show a combined master cylinder/vacuum booster for $94.99 plus core charge for your car:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...2_772298_8550_
Lifetime warranty. Order in store.
The master cylinder was a new Fenco unit (never heard of that brand, but whatever), cost $20, and they had it in stock. The booster was a Cardone unit, remanufactured, cost $109, and had to be ordered in the store and picked up a day or two later.
Autozone does show a combined master cylinder/vacuum booster for $94.99 plus core charge for your car:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...2_772298_8550_
Lifetime warranty. Order in store.
Should I try just refilling?
Looked at this thread and I have a similar situation. 68 Cutlass S Holiday Coupe. It's been sitting for 15 years on jack stands in my garage. My sons are finally old enough to get interested in working on it. We did some engine mods and other obvious maintenance.
Long story short, when we were ready to drive out of the garage last weekend I put my foot on the brake and it went straight to the floor. opened the reservoir lid and it was dry.
My question is: should I just try refilling the MC, bleeding all four wheel cylinders and then check for leaks? Or should I go ahead and replace the MC? What about the wheel cylinders after sitting that long?
Grandmasolds
Long story short, when we were ready to drive out of the garage last weekend I put my foot on the brake and it went straight to the floor. opened the reservoir lid and it was dry.
My question is: should I just try refilling the MC, bleeding all four wheel cylinders and then check for leaks? Or should I go ahead and replace the MC? What about the wheel cylinders after sitting that long?
Grandmasolds
You don't know where the fluid went, so I would fl it and try to pump it up first.
You may find it squirting out of a rusty line, or peeing out of a wheel cylinder.
Once you know where the fluid went, you can decide how many parts to change.
- Eric
You may find it squirting out of a rusty line, or peeing out of a wheel cylinder.
Once you know where the fluid went, you can decide how many parts to change.
- Eric
I ultimately determined that the brake fluid was seeping out of the M/C as much of the lower half of the brake booster where it attaches to the M/C had a sheen of brake fluid on it. Apparently it had leaked so slowly that there was never enough build-up to drip on the floor. It just evaporated off the booster. A new M/C fixed the problem, and, as I said, I threw a new booster on at the same time.
Since the OP's car has been sitting for 15 years, it's entirely possible that the fluid could have leaked out of the M/C onto the booster, floor, orwherever and had time to evaporate. This all could have happened 5 or 10 years ago if no one was paying attention to the car.
So, yes, fill it back up, work the pedal, and look for leaks. Just be sure to include the master cylinder among the places you look.
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