• New Carpeting (interior is great shape, dash door panels like new, but I tore out the "old" carpeting and was going to replace).
• Wiring Harnes: Problem with the rear tail lights, decided just to upgrade, replace the entire harness, new upgrade unit (winter project).

• Brake Pads (shoes if you chose)
• All components, springs, etc.
• Rear Wheel Brake Cylinders
• Rear (rubber) Brake Hose

 

While a lift is nice to have, the only task in your list that it might be beneficial is the rubber hose replacement. The rest can also be done with the car on jackstands and a roll around stool. I use Raybestos or Bendix brand parts, note, you will not find parts made in the USA for most brake items. All parts can be had through your local parts store or internet suppliers of your choice.

 

Agree to the Jack Stand - Rool Around stool work, but as you pointed out, it was that "Rubber Hose" located over the rear axle (pumpkin) that is going to be a "lay on the ground", reach over and disconnect task. As for the parts, again, you are correct, my pads (shoes), all the springs, wheel cylinder, hose, and lines are all available at my local O'Reilly. Our local O'Reilly has a "Pro-Shop" section in the rear that caters to classic, hot rod builders, hobbyists, and they are fairly good. Again, it's the hose that is going to be a "take a brake" (misspelled purposely) and try it again. I'll keep everyone posted. Take care.

 

We've spent more time talking about this than it takes to do it. One bolt holds the hose end to the rear axle housing, two flare nuts for the hard lines to the wheel cylinders, and one flare nut at the other end. Note that the problem with steel flare nuts is that they rust to the tube, causing the tube to twist when you try to loosen them. Disconnect the axle end first. When you can't get the frame end flare nut to come loose, remove the retaining clip, push the hose end rearward out of the frame cutout, and then hold the flare nut with a vice grip while you turn the hose. Once the flare nut is loose in the hose fitting, you can usually get it to free up on the hard line. You may need to remove the closest tube clip to the frame to get enough flex in the hard line to do this.

 

Work is done (removal), picking up all new components today.

The discussion was more in line with doing the job without a lift, ying on your back, attempting to get, see above the axle (pumpkin); just difficult without a lift, at least the hose and distribution parts, being where they are located.

So after

• Spraying with PB Blaster
• Letting all that drip on you while lying underneath - once there, you hate to crawl back out.
• Trying to move an elderly body in a position where I can apply a wrench, vise grips.
• Limited movement of each
• Letting a little "Vertigo" set in.

Everything is off and "new," ready to install.

So, that was the discussion, simply sharing the "task" and what one needs to be ready for, unless you have access to that "LIFT"!

 

People have been repairing cars, engines, transmissions, exhaust systems and changing tires for a hundred years without a lift. Why does it seem like such an obstacle recently ?

 

Well, I, as you stated, I am one of those "people" who have been "repairing cars for years", "without a lift, but there are some "repairs" that "without a lift" are just do-able, but a little more difficult, e.g.,

• changing the transmission,
• full exhaust change,
• oil changes,
• suspension work and
• ​​​​others.

The "Lift" makes it a lot easier, and add that as some of us who have been "repairing cars for years" get older; crawling under there, lying on your back,........................not sure how old you are, but it gets a little more challenging.

So A LIFT is a great tool/device to have, that's all I was saying.

 

Yes, they are nice to have.

 

Everything under the car is easier with a lift. I've been working on mine without a lift for over half a century.

 

Ok, let's leave the "Lift-No Lift" discussion and move forward:

I know that the "original" Rear Brake Hose for my 64 F85 DOES NOT come with the "T" connection, insert which transfers the fluid to the right, left brake, BUT.

I know some newer models take a similar hose, but the "T" connection, insert is already attached to the hose, thus a cleaner, more secure fluid fitting.

Example:

You may have to plug one of the inserts, leaving only the R and L to attach the brake lines, but:

 

As long as the R and L steel lines connect correctly and the rubber line is long enough, I see no issue. I always just replace the hose because the steel lines are vulnerable to damage when removing from the T, the rubber hose is usually not an issue.

 

There would be no problem with the R and L lines connecting; again, you would simply need to plug any "open" holes in the "T". I was just wondering if anyone ever used the hose with the "T" already connected. It would simply eliminate another "potential" line (T) connection leak.

As for replacing the "Hydraulic Rubber" hose, it is more common than you think, especially on the early, mid, or late 60s; they tend to collapse or simply deteriorate if sitting for a long time, clogging the hose.

 

Most of the rear brake hoses have the tee fitting integrated. There should be no holes to plug. In all seriousness, we've spent more time talking about this than it takes to do it.

 

I work on my cars "when I find time", I do have a full-time job, so discussions come when and after I do some work, or have a "thought" and are submitted just for the sake of a bunch of car guys sitting around bull-sh#tting.

But yes, I agree the discussion is taking longer than the job, but also: I watched this job on Youtube and it took 15 minutes; from working on it when I find time, to driving to get parts, returning the wrong part, and then working on it again....well, it is taking some "not in a hurry" so there may be MORE COMMENTS made, sorry.

 

You aren't the only one here with a full time job. I'll suggest that I get my repair info from the Chassis Service manual, not Zoo Tube. I prefer knowing that the info is correct.

 

joe.....the problem with "text" and not a personal "one-on-one" conversation is you can't see "emotions" or "attitude", so therefore one often gets a sense, a feeling of one's comments simply based on the responding "text".

It appears to me that rather than having a good old "Car Guy" to "Car Guy" discussion, you want to be extremely negative on EVERYTHING I, or we, say.

If I am wrong, I'm wrong and I apologize, but let me end by simply saying: "Chill Out"

Take care.

 

JoeP has things to do like many of us. You talk around in circles and accomplish nothing because you do nothing. Joe P doesn't need to chill out, you need to get a dog to talk to. Several people have answered your questions and you have watched Zoo tube.

 

Joe is probably the most knowledgeable member on this site and you can bank on 99 9/10ths anything he says as being correct. Yes, you are wrong, you are the one who needs to chill and accept criticism. There is a difference between asking a solid question and moving to mindless ramblings pertaining to a trivial job. Yours is bordering that and that is what Joe is commenting on.

 

Well, this will probably be my last comment on the "Brake Job", apparently Joe has a lot of followers and support, which is great:

As for me, to "accept criticism":

I don't see comments like: "we all have full-time jobs", "we all work on cars without lifts", "this job is taking longer than your discussion", as "CRITISM", more so as a "Condescending Reply",

One more comment: I've been a "Classic Car" guy for well over 60 years, yeah you can figure out my age by that, and I have worked on all types of cars. When I would question some areas on this 64 Olds, it wasn't due to lack of knowledge, again just a discussion as to how others found the information, what they did, find, etc., a typical "Car Talk Discussion", more as a discussion. No matter how much you know, how long you've been working on cars, there is always something different, new you can find by simply "talking".

I also work on Euro Cars, with a strong focus on the VW, Bugs, Ghias, Thing, etc.

Here's what I found or recognized about the "Classic American Car" guys vs. the "VW Guys".

You go to a "Classic American Car" show and you hear a bunch of comments as to: "That isn't Right", "That isn't what he says it is", "That car shouldn't be here", "Wow, look at all that mud"................... just a bunch of very (not criticism) but condescending comments.

You go to a "VW Show", and all you get is a bunch of extremely friendly, fun, enjoying their cars, ready to jump in and help you fix something, "pretty cool" comments, no matter what you did to the Bug............just a much more friendly, relaxing atmosphere, and yes, these VW people know their mechanics.

To close: I enjoyed (some) the comments on the replies, looks like this can be a very useful forum, and as for "Joe", I'm sure you and I would have a lot to talk about, nice to have the following you have, and hey................one more question about the brake hose..................no just kidding, take care everybody, and enjoy the Holiday Weekend.

 

Last post or not, I am "unsubscribing" to this because you "talked me to death" about nothing much.

As I see it, YOU might have one year of experience sixty times. Get a dog to talk to !

 

Do you have any suggestions, which you obviously have many, as to "What type of dog" or should I ask Joe?