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I have ordered a paper copy of the 64 assembly manual, but dont have it in my hands yet. I read over the drum brake sticky thread but the pictures are all gone and the link is no good to the yukon writeup
I had a couple questions about the rear brakes on a 64 cutlass.
I have a B type axle I beleive... it has 1 rib not two.
When I dissasembled everything I had to knock the wheel cylinders out of postion to get the drums off becasue it was all frozen up So it came off the axle tube as one big mess, axle shafts and all...
With the axles out should (or can) I assemble the brakes and then insert the axles, or do the axles need to be bolted in first?
Also for the press on bearings and lock rings... how do i know when i have pressed the new ones on far enough?
I was planning on cutting the old ones until i can get them off with a cold chisel... is there a better way to do this?
With the axles out should (or can) I assemble the brakes and then insert the axles, or do the axles need to be bolted in first?
There should be enough room.
If you have the correct backing plates, the holes will be large enough for the axle bearings to slide through. The reason I mention the correct backing plates is I once swapped a corporate 10 bolt rear with an early O-Type, used the same backing plates, and the O-Type axle bearing was too large to fit through the hole in the backing plate. You should be able to easily check this - if the loose bearing fits through the backing plate hole, all is good.
Originally Posted by mattking
Also for the press on bearings and lock rings... how do i know when i have pressed the new ones on far enough?
When they won't go any further - the bearing will seat against the flange, then the lock ring will seat against the bearing.
This image from Supercars Unlimited shows there is no gap between the bearing and flange, and lock ring and bearing.
Originally Posted by mattking
I was planning on cutting the old ones until i can get them off with a cold chisel... is there a better way to do this?
That is the easiest method, just be sure you don't contact the axle shaft. Lay the bearing on a hard surface, smack the top of the bearing with a large hammer to crack the outer race, then cut the inner race off.
Fun71::: thanks for the info. That’s the best picture of the brake springs I have seen thanks for the replies The bearings barley fit through the holes when I dis assembled it and I’ve got two coats front and back of por15 on the backing plates. I think I’ll test fit them and maybe remove some of that paint
in my head it seamed like it would be much easier to assemble with out the axle flange in the way
either way I’m sure it’s gonna be a frustrating affair and likely some cussing will happen ok probably
sugarbear:::. You are correct on that. I watched a video today of a guy pressing them off and he had plates stacked on angle iron balanced on tubes all in his press. Made me cringe to watch
about 8 years ago I got a metal splitter in my fingertip. I thought I got it out but it got infected
the minor med numbed it and drained it. They hit a never w the numbing needle and I still have some deadness on the inside of those two fingers and a ball of scar tissue in my finger tip
it’s supposed to be fun. Not dangerous
Last edited by mattking; Oct 29, 2021 at 04:29 PM.
Thanks for all the help. Learned a lot yesterday. Had to modify my press… moved the support to the side and made a matching one… all to get enough room for the axle to fit
used a grind and chisel and got the old bearings off. I soaked the backer plates in chem dip and then pressed the new
bearings and lock rings on. So. I’ve got a new set of bearings ordered to do it again and include the backer plates.
on one side I did notice the bearing mating surface was burned off a little The new bearing will not spin by hand on the axle but the axle is about 1/64 smaller diameter than it should be. I can take better measurements when it take it back apart
should I look for a replacement axle. Or run it and just keep an eye on it?
If the previous bearing spun in the shaft, the new one probably will, too. You could try some bearing and shaft LocTite as that stuff is specifically designed to lock the bearing on the shaft. I’ve never used it so I can’t say how it would work.
