I am trying to finish converting my power drum car to power disks using all factory parts on my 1972 Cutlass. To say the least, it is becoming a nightmare.


I gravity bled all 4 wheels this morning and had good flow at all wheels. I got lots of bubbles then good clear flow. I had the clip on the valve to push in the pin to allow flow. When I remove the clip from the valve and try the brakes, the pedal goes to the floor. Yes, I replaced the original drum brake valve on the frame with a correct combination valve (proportioning) and then replaced that with one from InLine.


The master is a rebuild, but it has been sitting for 4 or 5 years in the unopened box. I bench bled and after lots of bubbles, it got rock hard and it seemed fine. Could I be leaking internally, causing the pedal to go to the floor, even though it bench bled fine?

 

Sounds like you still have air in your system.

 

Yeah, I have been battling that issue with defective parts, and I may still have it. I( have had continued leaking from the banjo bolt that attaches the hose to the caliper. I tried 3 different sets of new copper washers, but then realized the mounting boss on the caliper was almost smooth and not grooved like it is supposed to be (like the hose fittings). I got 2 new calipers from NAPA this morning to replace the 2 that leaked. One of them looks fine, the other looks too smooth to seal. The ones pictured are on the car now, and the one is probably letting air into the system.


I am just trying to eliminate the master if that is also a problem. Usually, when the pedal goes to the floor the mc is leaking. I haven't seen any fluid on the floor yet today from the banjo bolt, but I am not confident.